Changing Bearings

[k14]

Bike failed its wof today because the front wheel bearings are apparantly stuffed.

Just wondering how hard it is to replace them? I can get a new set for $36 or a new set fitted for about $70. My mate has a front stem stand so its no problem getting the front off the ground, just need to know if any special tools are required??

Cheers

[Firefight]

Bike failed its wof today because the front wheel bearings are apparantly stuffed.

Just wondering how hard it is to replace them? I can get a new set for $36 or a new set fitted for about $70. My mate has a front stem stand so its no problem getting the front off the ground, just need to know if any special tools are required??

Cheers

5 min job mate, have a go do it your self, then that leaves you $34 for bozz, drugs, babes or gas, also good way to start learning about your bike by having a go at the simple jobs first, and as you build up your confindence tackle more complex jobs :spudwave:


F/F

[What?]

that's a hell of a price to fit them.
Take the wheel off, remove the axle and, if necessary, (gently) use a long, thin screwdriver, or a wooden dowel, through the centre to push the bearings out. Easy as, but you might need to use CRC and let it soak for a while to loosen any crud. New ones should slide in nice and simple - just make sure they go in square, they might jam up if you twist them.
Might not need anything more than your fingers to pull the old bearings out.

[Paul in NZ]

Ok....

The advice given is fair enough but be a little cautious...

Get the wheel out (if you can't manage that, don't try to change the bearings, get back to us OK)

Look at the wheel. Sometimes the bearings are located by something like a circlip or summat. Should be pretty obvious.

Biff the old ones out from the opposite side. ie Knock out the right one from the left. One solid whack is better than a hundred girlie ones.

Clean every thing.....

When putting the new ones back, make sure they look the same as the old ones. They are probably sealed, some folk pull the seal off and squeeze some more grease in as some manufacturers in emerging nations sometimes drink too much bad rice wine at lunch time and forget to put any in...

NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT......

When tapping the new ones in.... ONLY HIT THEM ON THE OUTER RACE. ie the bit that connects to the wheel... Hitting them on the inner race (the bit that goes on the axle) will bugger them faster than a priest goes through a fresh alterboy....

Best is to find a big socket the same size as the outer race and use that to knock it in...

Paul N

[merv]

All of the above, plus I would say generally from my experience you'd need a decent punch and hammer to knock them out with - if they are finger tight you've got a worn hub problem. The comment about a circlip might apply and if that is the case you'll need some circlip pliers. There is generally a spacer between them which you can kind of slip down a bit to get the punch in to tap the opposite bearing out. Then don't forget to put the spacer back in when you put the new ones in.

I'm thinking $34 sounds cheap to fit them really if that includes taking the front wheel off and refitting it - but then it depends how badly you need the money and yep there is only one way to learn and that is do it yourself.

I buy my bearings from Mana Bearings up here and I presume you are buying yours somewhere similar and not from the bike dealers as the OEM are too dear.

[k14]

Ok, I think I should be able to handle it. I have changed the fork seals before, so I know how to take the front wheel off.

What kind of grease should I use for the front axle??

I think that the $34 I save should do quite nicely. Should only take 30 mins or so, just have to make sure I get the right bearings. Should I take the old bearings into a bearing place and then get them to get me some new ones? Or should I just go to the bike shop??

Cheers for the help guys.

Now next on the list is replacing the chain and sprockets.

[Hitcher]

One solid whack is better than a hundred girlie ones.

squeeze some more grease in as some manufacturers in emerging nations sometimes drink too much bad rice wine at lunch time and forget to put any in...

Hitting them on the inner race will bugger them faster than a priest goes through a fresh alterboy....

PMPROTFL!! Who said the metaphor was dead??!!

Take a bow Paul, you bloody beauty!

[FROSTY:Me]

Ok, I think I should be able to handle it. I have changed the fork seals before, so I know how to take the front wheel off.

What kind of grease should I use for the front axle??

I think that the $34 I save should do quite nicely. Should only take 30 mins or so, just have to make sure I get the right bearings. Should I take the old bearings into a bearing place and then get them to get me some new ones? Or should I just go to the bike shop??

Cheers for the help guys.

Now next on the list is replacing the chain and sprockets.

well I agree with paul totally
But i would take the bearings to a local bearing supplier--should be heaps cheaper.
The stock bearings are usually like 6302z
I prefer to use sealed bearings and remove one seal and face that side inwards.
ask for 2 rubber seal type bearings .
Also I use a lick of grease round the outside of the bearing -It makes it slide in easier.-I did say A lick -like barely wet not dripping

[merv]

Yep take them to a bearing shop (like I said I use Mana Bearings here) and they can read the numbers on them and sell you the exact ones you need.

[dangerous]

Should I take the old bearings into a bearing place and then get them to get me some new ones? Or should I just go to the bike shop??
Now next on the list is replacing the chain and sprockets.

For any parts down here try Pitlane (cycletreads) as far as a bike shop goes, but the bearings you might get a better deal from a bearing dealer.
If ya need any help then you know me number.

[Paul in NZ]

You are being buried in suggestions...

If you go for a bearing from the local shop...

Make sure the bearing has the same number of balls.....

Avoid bearings with plastic cages like you would a speed camera on a high hormone ride day....

Make sure they are real 'name' bearings from a country that you can actually find easily on the map and hopefully where the populace was not running about slaughtering pandas for knob ointment a few weeks back...

Look for a grumpy old geezer in a stained dust coat behind the counter and ask him (or her) what brand is best for your application. Avoid the spotty 14 year old with a bad attitude or anyone that asks if you "want fries with that." - Anyone over 35 is a ok bet.

All pretty simple really...

Now I have to go pack the bags and sling it on the ancient LeMans after removing the 2 kitchen sinks and 4 hair driers Vicki put out for a little mid winter jaunt. Should be fun....

Paul N

[k14]

Got it, thanks paul.

Just one last question. What kind/brand of grease is good?? Just need a small tube for future applications aswell.

[pete376403]

Any name brand (ie Castrol, Shell, etc) automotive wheel bearing grease is good. For me, Duckhams is best cos thats what is in the shed.
Try to avoid smearing it all over the brake disks and pads

[pete376403]

Now I have to go pack the bags and sling it on the ancient LeMans after removing the 2 kitchen sinks and 4 hair driers Vicki put out for a little mid winter jaunt. Should be fun.... Paul N

Where you off to?

[Paul in NZ]

Off to Esk Valley on the Napier - Taupo hwy to be a small part of the annual Ringo Ride (it's ringos birthday)... Napier to Napier via napier Taupo hwy, desert rd, Gentle annie...

Will avoid the Gentle Annie unless I drink too much tonight (and what are the chances of that you ask) as the mud on that road does NOT like the Guzzi. Last time it filled the holes in the disks resulting in no brakes... Yikes! Clip ons, rear sets and c/r gear boxes are NOT the most fun on gravel roads....

Try for a high temperature grease. It won't fling all over the place when the wheel heats up....

Cheers