Clutch Pushrod Seal

**M1CRO:Me** · 16th September 2006, 13:19

Anyone know how to insert the clutch pushrod seal on the Busa..
Looking through the manual is not very helpful. I assume that because it is recessed and cannot be directly pressfit, that I have to split the case? Or is there another way?

**TLDV8** · 16th September 2006, 13:46

The Hayabusa looks to have the same hydraulic slave cylinder/push rod/seal set up as the TL1000R...... If it has the metal retainer plate (like the TL)which goes over the output sprocket and clutch push rod seal then it is a case of ..remove sprocket,remove plate,remove seal,new seal with a little sealant on the outer face,push it in flush......Refit and torque parts removed.

It is also a good idea to remove all the crap in the area,some folk fit a bellows or similar to stop grit getting on the seal/pushrod area.

Attached pic is TL but it looks to be a similar layout.

**M1CRO:Me** · 16th September 2006, 14:39

Thanks for that.. I sooo wish it looked that simple

Attached are some photos, where you can see that the pushrod seal needs to be recessed. The seal doesnt appear to fit in as-is. A quick hunt on the net doesnt seem to definitively show you.. but for all intensive purposes I am thinking that I need to start taking more things apart?

Whilst I was there, I took apart the Water pump and replaced all the seals etc in that, so the sprocket seal might also be due for replacement.. Unless there is someway just to prise it apart slightly....

Anyone have any bright idea's

**TLDV8** · 16th September 2006, 15:05

Strangely the Ronayers site shows the same part number for the TL1000 and Hayabusa seal.I thought the install would be similar even though the engine case part line are different (vertical on the TL)..Surely you do not have to split the cases to change the seal

That is a major...Is that the seal inside on the angle ?

Hayabusa
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_03...20&parent=5310

TL1000
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_03...0&parent=12210

**M1CRO:Me** · 16th September 2006, 15:16

Originally Posted by TLDV8

Surely you do not have to split the cases to change the seal

That is a major...Is that the seal inside on the angle ?

I dam well hope I dont have to split it....
As for the seal, nope, the seal has been taken out.. I smeared the inside "plate" with engine oil, so that is the puddle that you can see at the bottom... I carefully presprayed it with Brakeleen to get the little "bits" out of the recess so it should be relatively clean.

Was hoping to get it together this weekend, but I think I will wait until I can get some confirmation on how to get the dam thing in there.. Maybe I need some special tool?

Dam Suzuki

lol

**Warr** · 16th September 2006, 17:20

Are you sure you have the right seal. Tis just a 6X34X5 seal which guessing has a 34mm outside diameter. So why is it that you cant press fit it into the hole ??
As in gently tap in with a piece of wood/engineers hammer....

**M1CRO:Me** · 16th September 2006, 18:08

I have the right seal but the opening is smaller than where the seal sits. The recess is, at a guess around 2-3mm. This means that the seal is 34mm but the outside hole is only 28-30mm. So that means that the seal has to go in on an angle to get into the recess and then somehow knock the bottom end in.

The seal is not a "rubber" seal, in that, you can just bend it in. The inside of the seal is a metal disc which is not very bendable. It seems to me as if the seal is going to look alot worse for wear trying to get it in without cracking the case and sliding it in..

**TLDV8** · 16th September 2006, 18:53

Originally Posted by M1CRO

I have the right seal but the opening is smaller than where the seal sits. The recess is, at a guess around 2-3mm. This means that the seal is 34mm but the outside hole is only 28-30mm. So that means that the seal has to go in on an angle to get into the recess and then somehow knock the bottom end in.

The seal is not a "rubber" seal, in that, you can just bend it in. The inside of the seal is a metal disc which is not very bendable. It seems to me as if the seal is going to look alot worse for wear trying to get it in without cracking the case and sliding it in..

Its the same seal as the TL for sure but the way it is used is much different.On the TL it just pushs in flush and a retaining plate sits over it.What does the manual say,like you say the metal body of the seal is never going to go through a bore of less than 34mm.... well it will,but it might effect its ability to seal after getting the bash

**M1CRO:Me** · 16th September 2006, 21:06

I think, by process of elimination, I have to start taking more things apart

Thanks TLDV8..

Btw, we have the same postcode, so I assume your very close

**M1CRO:Me** · 20th October 2006, 20:21

For the sake of completeness, I thought I would finish off this thread.

The short story is, YES the engine must come out of the bike and accordingly a new set of "everything else" gaskets must also be replaced. This got a bit hard for me (time wise and more to the point - tools wise), so I cheated and got the bike shop to do it. Charged me for 12 hours labour which was quite a while I thought, but at least at the end of the day, its done

Back to what I enjoy - Riding! NOT fixing

**paturoa** · 20th October 2006, 20:55

SV is similar too, check out

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20093

seems like a common zook problem. SV sounds the easiest to replace.

**TLDV8** · 21st October 2006, 23:35

I forgot about this thread.

Btw, we have the same postcode, so I assume your very close

Indeed Micro,Manurewa...Good to hear the Busa is up and running

Paturoa,the SV has a similar engine case to the TL (except for the mount widths)

I have never had a seal leak on two TL's.
You have two choice's.
Keep that area clean or put some kind of rubber bellows over the clutch pushrod.On the twins a oil gallery comes up behind the clutch pushrod seal and continues up to the gearbox output shaft seal.If even a small piece of grit gets under the seal lip it will leak due to the oil pressure even though there is a restricter jet in the lower part of the gallery.
There are also two clutch pushrod seals one having a 5mm inner diameter,the other 5.5mm.The pushrod is 6mm OD.