How to wire in Escort 8500

[Stormer]

After a few to many close calls, I`ve finally got an Escort Passport 8500.
Question is...how do you wire it into a VTR1000 Firestorm, `cos it doesn`t have a ciggy lighter socket like in the car.

[poorbastard]

Either put in a ciggy lighter socket somewhere or just direct wire it from the battery or ignition wires. You can buy a direct wire kit off trademe and a few other places (think they cost around 20 bucks) or just make one with wire, a fuse and a connector plug.

[Blackbird]

If you want to pm me with an email address, I'll send you the photos of the connection to the switched wire out of the fusebox on my Blackbird as it probably has the same set-up. You do need the direct wire though rather than the cigarette lighter compatible one.

[Jantar]

I connected a cigarette lighter adapter from Dick Smith to a fused wire under the seat, and just plugged the Escort Smart cord into it.

[Fatjim]

I just got a vampire tap connector (crimps over the wire through the insulation) to one of the wires on the fuse box thats live when the ignitions on. You can also run it from a wire off the back of the speedo panel.

If you plan on getting heated grips then run a wire from the battery (fused) to a relay positioned up front, then run a lead from the speedo thats live with the ignition on to turn the relay on. Then you can run the lot from one place.

[Stormer]

Hey,
Cheers for the replies.
I`ve got a fused direct wire kit, just didn`t really want to take it direct from the battery.
There`s a tap-in connecter included, and guess I was hoping someone could direct me straight to the wire that you tap into.
It does work straight off the battery terminal.
Suppose I`ll have to break out the multimeter...

Blackbird...you`ve got mail!

[notme]

I just got a vampire tap connector (crimps over the wire through the insulation) ..............

...............
There`s a tap-in connecter included ...............

Those things are prone to failure....just a friendly warning!

Far far better to solder the connection - having said that I realise not everyone has the tools. I'm happy to help anyone with bike electrickery (area dependant of course!) as I have acces to an electronics factory any hour of the day or night (lucky me, i get to work ALL THE TIME.)

[Blackbird]

Installation photos sent to your email address - hope you got them ok.

Geoff

[Stormer]

Hey Blackbird,
Cheers for the pics.
I`m gonna have to get one of those detector covers, what with all the shite weather we`ve been having.
I found a couple of live wires (with ignition on), but when I connected the tap-in, the detector wouldn`t start up.
Might just connect to the battery + terminal and solder in an on/off switch.
I`ll post up a pic of the setup when it`s done.

[Fatjim]

I'm happy to help anyone with bike electrickery (area dependant of course!) as I have acces to an electronics factory any hour of the day or night (lucky me, i get to work ALL THE TIME.)

Sweet, I need some way to control my heated grips. the control nob is knackered, but had 2 positions, START; too hot for any length of time, and RUN; not warm enough.

In parallel they are 6ohms (12 ohms each, 24watts total I think), but I'd like to be able to drop that down to 5-6 watts. I don't really want to use a pot as the heat buildup would make it glow.

What can i do?

[notme]

Sweet, I need some way to control my heated grips. the control nob is knackered, but had 2 positions, START; too hot for any length of time, and RUN; not warm enough.

In parallel they are 6ohms (12 ohms each, 24watts total I think), but I'd like to be able to drop that down to 5-6 watts. I don't really want to use a pot as the heat buildup would make it glow.

What can i do?

Depends on the type of grips - some I know you wind the heating wire onto the bar and epoxy it in place, so potentially you could adjust the amount of turns (although i don't know how you'd get thru the epoxy - probably have to destroy it and buy another set!) the type of grips i have are a sealed unit so i'm stuck with them the way they are which is actually ok on mine.

You might be able to add some power resistors in series with the grips, then leave them on the START position (well, where the knob used to connect the wires for start position). This way the resistors are taking some of the current that would otherwise go to the grips, and if you get the values right you could have a setting somewhere in between START and ON. Yell if you need help with resistor choice, and bear in mind that the power consumption of the grip system will still bt 50 odd watts, it's just that some of that is going into these resistors now, so the grips don't get as hot.

For real temperature control and full adjustability you need a switching circuit. not too hard to design and build if you're really keen, but it depends how much of an issue this is for you - you can buy grips with full temp control, so unless the price way up there, what would be the point?

Who knows, maybe there's a demand out there for an add on circuit to give full adjustability?

[Stormer]

This things great!
Saved me from from a definate ticket when it picked up a black Holden mufti the other morning.

[Blackbird]

Nice set-up Are you going to get a waterproof case from Radar Direct? A pit pricey for what they are but very effective. I'm also very pleased with the new screamer as a substitute for my helmet earpiece. Used for the first time in anger last Friday when it warned me of HWP presence in the middle of some roadworks. Wondered what the noise was at first!

[Stormer]

Ha!!
Wonder if the cop could hear it?
Yeah, I`ll probably get the clear case.
Been caught in some rain last week...in one case it was pissing down hard-out.
The fairing will keep the rain off it as long as you are moving.

[Fatjim]

Stormer, make your pictures bigger bro! Pixresizer does a good job of reducing the resolution and th file size with out making them into thumbnails.

How do you like the higher screen?