FI Problem K4 GSXR600

[Two Smoker]

FI comes up on the LCD, and flashes... List of Possible causes

CMP
CKP
1234 Ignition
1234 Injector
Fuel Pump relay (Fuel pump primes and pumps gas. So off the list?)
Ignition switch. (Bike turns on and cranks. So of the list?)

The bike turns on and the motor will crank over, but does not fire. Im pretty sure all connections are secure. Im wondering will the bike still start if its only the 1 or 2 of the ignition leads, or injector/s are faulty/not connected properly???

Might just have to take it to the bike shop and get it diagnosed to the exact point....

Cheers for any input

[Shaun]

You are such a fuck wit, you know my telephone number and do not ring it! How can I help you when you never ask Chris

[Motu]

Fuel or ignition?....find out which and halve the possibilities.

Spray some ether or carb cleaner into the intake,if it runs you have a fuel problem.check for spark.Ingore the onboard diagnosis and do it yourself.Computer codes send people well off track.

[Deano]

You could ask Jimmy or Hayden - both their Gixxers had a similar problem. Didn't Loosebruce have the same thing happen as well ?

Not that Gixxers are faulty or nuffin.

[Cajun]

Chris put it in dealer mode so it can give you an error

I will be putting that cd in post for ya today, fastpost so hopefull you have it tomorrow.

[Shaun]

Fuel or ignition?....find out which and halve the possibilities.

Spray some ether or carb cleaner into the intake,if it runs you have a fuel problem.check for spark.Ingore the onboard diagnosis and do it yourself.Computer codes send people well off track.

Maybe on some bikes, but the Suzuki system is Idiot proof, and using the diagnostics codes was how the problem was found

[Motu]

And cars are 10 times better than bikes - but I can still diagnose before the scanner is hooked up and running.Spark,fuel....and why.The basics - and the basics is always where the problem is.

[Shaun]

So are you telling me that it is quicker to remove petrol tank, remove air box cover, check plugs for spark and then spray either, and refit airbox and tank ( Because you must for it to start) Than it is to simply remove rider seat and plug in a wire and then Presto, you find the Exact problem?

As I said above, the Suzuki system is idiot proof and very very fast, all of 5 minutes to discover your fuel of electrical problem if you have one

[Motu]

Yeah,access is the biggest problem these days,you have to remote test components you can only see with a mirror.If you think bikes are hard come and remove the plugs on this Forrester I'm working on - I've got spark and fuel now but wet fouled plat plugs won't self clean,it's going to take me 3 times as long to get it running as for finding the original fault.Onboard fault codes are only an indication,don't go throwing parts in on codes alone.

[TLDV8]

Im pretty sure all connections are secure.

What does that mean

As said already the dealer mode will show the fault.

Bridge the DM connector,crank the engine and it should show a C??? code which can be identified off the workshop manual list.

GSXR maybe different,you can also crank it over to get a flashing FI,leave the ignition switch on then bridge the DM socket....The fault readout is normally lost if the ignition gets turned off then back on . ?
If you have been working on the bike it may be a simple connection forgotten.

[TLDV8]

It should be a similar set up on all FI Suzuki's ?
Simply bridging a plug (under the passenger seat on a TL1000) will get a C code (C 00 = no fault) in the temp window of the tacho (its that easy)... When in dealer mode it also brings up bars that are used to set the TPS...easy as.

A factory workshop manual has got to be money well spent.

[Shaun]

Yeah,access is the biggest problem these days,you have to remote test components you can only see with a mirror.If you think bikes are hard come and remove the plugs on this Forrester I'm working on - I've got spark and fuel now but wet fouled plat plugs won't self clean,it's going to take me 3 times as long to get it running as for finding the original fault.Onboard fault codes are only an indication,don't go throwing parts in on codes alone.

I hear what you are saying, and also know that you know what you are talking about.

In this case though, it is/was much faster than your suggestion, as I know the bike inside and out, as well as I know the persom who made the post, so was 99.9% certain that he had either not connected or connected a coupling incorrectly, which will show up as a fauly code

Cars, No way mate, hate all the bending over and the fact there is no room to swing a 10mm spanner any more, good luck to ya