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Thread: Oil change

  1. #1
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    26th September 2006 - 07:58
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    Oil change

    Not long after I got my ZZR400 I changed the oil for some cage Havoline oil I had and now gear changes seem clunky. Its done about 40k's so I know I need to expect some noise. I've read some posts about the pros and cons on which oil to use and have decided on diesel engine oil. I've only done about 2000kms on the Havoline. I also intend changing the filter. Does anyone know of an engine flush product I should use ? Should I worry about it ? Cheers
    If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning

  2. #2
    Don't flush,it does more harm than good.
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  3. #3
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    30th September 2004 - 20:08
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    What about motorcycle oil?

    ?!?

    It should last a few more trips through the clutch and gearbox..

  4. #4
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    26th September 2006 - 07:58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Don't flush,it does more harm than good.
    Thanks Motu. Knew I could count on someone to set me straight.
    If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning

  5. #5
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    26th September 2006 - 07:58
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    Quote Originally Posted by limbimtimwim View Post
    What about motorcycle oil?

    ?!?

    It should last a few more trips through the clutch and gearbox..
    Cause a bunch of people on here as well oil industry experts with a whole lot more knowledge on the subject than me say its just as good.
    If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning

  6. #6
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    12th August 2004 - 09:31
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    I think I'd stick to a bike specific oil of the proper rate SAE, and change it fairly frequently if you do a lot of commuting.

    I've heard about the diesel oil trick, but don't know of anyone actually using it in their bike.

    IIRC ZZRs have been known to be a bit 'clunky' with gear changing.

  7. #7
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    I'd have to brush up on my tribology but I'd be a bit nervous with respect to whether diesel oil and its additive package breaks down any faster than bike specific oils due to the higher revs of your bike compared with a diesel motor. Given the potential for harm, I'd want to raise this specifically with the manufacturers.

  8. #8
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    15th April 2005 - 15:45
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    After spending twenty plus years in the motor industry,dont use car oil in your bike,cars dont have a wet clutch,motorcyce specific oils have additives to allow
    for wet clutches,also the average bike revs alot harder than a car
    so for instance imagine how hard the car oil is working in a 250cc four cylinder that revs to 19000rpm,car oil cant cope
    I also agree dont flush your engine,you would be better to do a couple of quick oil changes,by the way always change the filter at the same time
    So the long & short of it is the gearbox troubles you are having is due to the wrong oil!!

  9. #9
    Any oil rated for Alison will handle wet clutches,Alison make truck auto tramsmissions and use engine oil.The oil I use in my diesels is rated for 80,000km oil changes,I'm sure it can handle a few kms in a wizzy bike.
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  10. #10
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    30th September 2004 - 20:08
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    Yes, true, I did some internetting and have learnt that diesel engine oils (Especially the commercial grade stuff) has much of the stuff that motorcycle oil has. Shear stabilisers and all that.

    This is all pretty lucid: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

    But I imagine it is more expensive than motorcycle oil...? I've never looked.

    But how flash an oil does a ZZR400 need? Surely a motorcycle semi-synth would be just the stuff.

  11. #11
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    I’m only responding in the hope that you will hear my plea “Please don’t let me get stuck in an oil dispute” [finger hovers over unsubscribe button].

    My suggestion is think left field first & check that your chain tension & chain condition (no tightspots) aren’t affecting the gear change first off. Cush rubbers in rear wheel can get sloppy esp in Kawis of that era, so chain tension can creep up & make it seem worse (cushdrives can be packed out to reduce the slop).
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  12. #12
    Um,yeah - good idea.Personaly I've never known an oil to change my shift or clutch action,unless it's super thin or thick.But then I don't really take much notice of such stuff.Easy to blame the oil for another problem.
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  13. #13
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    maybe it depends on the bike, as i have definately had different clutch performance with different oils.
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  14. #14
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    30th September 2004 - 20:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Um,yeah - good idea.Personaly I've never known an oil to change my shift or clutch action,unless it's super thin or thick.But then I don't really take much notice of such stuff.Easy to blame the oil for another problem.
    I did, when I first got my RVF, could very occasionally get the clutch to slip if I really gave it some. After I changed the oil, for some semi-sythetic, it never happened again. Obviously, I don't know what type of oil was in it it before hand.

    I've had someone assure to me that this simply cannot be the truth and that I was mistaken (Possible) and someone else recommend I put a semi in the RVF because a full sythetic made their clutch slip on their tricked up race RVF.

    I figured it is an older bike and probably wasn't designed for a full sythetic, and simply does not need it.

  15. #15
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    26th September 2006 - 07:58
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    Have just put new sprockets and O-ring chain on as I thought that might fix the problem. Oil change was pre new sprockets and chain so that only leaves the oil as the only other thing I have done since picking up the bike.
    If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning

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