Heya,
What is the best way to "bed-in" brake pads?
JSG
Heya,
What is the best way to "bed-in" brake pads?
JSG
read the packet they came in.
else take it easy for the first few k's until they warm up, then start increasing the pressure after a few braking times. Then just use them as normal. Temp is the key apparently..
Everyone has their own methods tho. Most racers, 1 'easy' lap..
The method I've always used, both on bikes and cages, is use 'em often but lightly, you gotta keep 'em warm but not too hot. 100k's will do the trick.
16, I love that road, but like a lot of others rarely go near it now for fear of loss of bike and licence, can't think of the last time I went through without seeing the pork.![]()
Drew for Prime Minister!
www.oldskoolperformance.com
www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )
Standard proceedure for us is about 10 stops from 80kph with atleast 1/2 km between.Keep the pressure steady,like don't increase the pressure if the brakes lose effectivness,don't back off if they come on harder,don't come to a stop.They need to be put through some heat cycles.
SH16 was best when it was gravel,it was a tough road and it was a remote area back then where few people went.As a sealed road it was still pretty good 5 or 6 years ago,but they have done a lot of straightening and spoilt it for me.From Tauhoa north was a fun road as it twisted along the ridge,now it's boring.
In and out of jobs, running free
Waging war with society
Someone asked Yamaha's European test/development rider the same question, and this is basically what he said, only he said 100km/h, and to gradualy increase the braking force.
I know how NOT to do it:
1. If you normally use 1 or 2 fingers for braking, don't use 4.
2. Don't bed them in on a damp raod.
3. Don't bed them in on an off-camber road.
4. Don't bed them in on a road with extensive tar snakes.
5. If you're going to ignore points 1 through 4, then DEFINITELY don't bed them in directly in front of some road workers.
6. If you're going to ignore 1 through 5, then try to not freeze up when you find your brakes / front tyre have locked up.
7. If you really must ignore all of the above, then try not to land on your head.
8. OK, OK, ignore all the above, you pillock, but don't mention your overwhelmingly stupid actions on Kiwi Biker.![]()
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....![]()
From what I've read Motu recommendations seem spot on.
10 to 15 or so braking sequences from 100-10mph are what are recommended from various sources on the interweb - no I don't want a lecture on doing 100mph on the road.
Now, if someone could give me some dry roads - I'd really appreciate it. Ta
People always complain about the cost of a brake job,as I have to factor in 20 to 30 mins for bedding in....and then if we don't bed them in they come back complaining and we have to strip and deglaze the pads free of charge.
In and out of jobs, running free
Waging war with society
On both bikes and cages i have always used the 100ish kph down to about 20kph. Somewhere around 8 times seems to have worked for me. I am gonna have to do a set of high performance pads in my cage soon, and racebrakes recommended doing a few good stops and getting the pads really hot, but not letting the car come to a stop.
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