SV1000S Suspension

[Grahameeboy]

For those interested, I found this. I have put 03 Model settings in Brackets.

SV1000S ('06)
Sport Rider - 11/06

Front PreLoad- 3 lines showing (6 lines)
Front ReBound- 1/4 turn out from full stiff (.5)
Front Compression- 1 turn out from full stiff (1.5)

Rear PreLoad- 23mm thread showing from top of spring to top of threads (12)
Rear ReBound- 1/4 turn out from full stiff (1)
Rear Compression- 1/2 turn out from full stiff (2.25)

Interesting the significant differences between 03 and 06 when as far as I was aware the only changes have been to the engine in 05.

Have been fiddling with my set up. Not an expert especially when I discovered the wheel alignment was slightly out so gonna try these new settings and work from there.

[idleidolidyll]

For those interested, I found this. I have put 03 Model settings in Brackets.

SV1000S ('06)
Sport Rider - 11/06

Front PreLoad- 3 lines showing (6 lines)
Front ReBound- 1/4 turn out from full stiff (.5)
Front Compression- 1 turn out from full stiff (1.5)

Rear PreLoad- 23mm thread showing from top of spring to top of threads (12)
Rear ReBound- 1/4 turn out from full stiff (1)
Rear Compression- 1/2 turn out from full stiff (2.25)

Interesting the significant differences between 03 and 06 when as far as I was aware the only changes have been to the engine in 05.

Have been fiddling with my set up. Not an expert especially when I discovered the wheel alignment was slightly out so gonna try these new settings and work from there.

good point

no use fiddling with the suspension settings if the wheels are not in line; it'll STILL feel like crap

when i buy a new bike I always start with the recommended settings but i also place a cable tie on one of the forks and on the back shock shaft so I can see if I'm using all the travel.
Given NZ's crappy roads, we need all the suspension we can get.
Use a cable tie to show how much travel the shock has used (tie it around the shaft)

if you've got the static sag right (road bikes about 30mm) and the cable tie shows that you only use half the shock travel; you should be able to soften up the compression damping. If the cable tie shows that all of the travel has been used, you may need to increase the compression damping a bit. Ideally you should be using almost all the shock travel with just a tiny bit to spare. This should give you the best ride and enable you to get on the gas earlier and harder out of corners as well as into them.

If the bike is fine when it first hits a bump but the forks/shock bounce back high or fast afterward, the rebound damping is probably too soft and you should increase it a few clicks and try again.
If the bike goes over a bump OK but the suspension is slow to return to normal the rebound damping is probably too hard and you can soften it a few clicks.

static sag is the amount the bike drops into its suspension when resting on a level surface (NOT on a sidestand) without a rider onboard. On a road bike this is between 20mm and 40mm depending on the shock and type of bike. You'd be safe to start at 30mm. To adjust this you change the spring to a harder or softer spring or at the very least, wind the preload up or down.

BTW: it's actually harder to explain than to do

[Grahameeboy]

Cheers for that.

I am always careful when adjusting chain but recalled getting distracted a few weeks ago and thinking, did I or didn't I. Must have forgotten where I was but at time thought I had remembered.

Lets see what the go is with wheels aligned and new settings.

[idleidolidyll]

Cheers for that.

I am always careful when adjusting chain but recalled getting distracted a few weeks ago and thinking, did I or didn't I. Must have forgotten where I was but at time thought I had remembered.

Lets see what the go is with wheels aligned and new settings.

Ahh, speaking of chain adjustments...........I've had a few bikes where the factory recommendation was WRONG! Too tight once the suspension is fully compressed putting undue stress on the chain and gearbox.

I use this method:

With ratchet tie downs pull down the back end of the bike until the front sprocket ctr, rear sprocket ctr and the swingarm pivot ctr are all lined up perfectly. That is the longest length your chain should be. At that point the chain should be adjusted until it is JUST free enough to easily roll over the sprockets and no more.

[Grahameeboy]

Yeah, I tend to under tighten a wee bit to allow for this and double check once wheel nut tightened.
With the SV I have only had to adjust the chain a few times in 19,000 k's.

[imdying]

With the SV I have only had to adjust the chain a few times in 19,000 k's.

Yes, it appears the pain appears in the rear tyre not the chain

[Grahameeboy]

Yes, it appears the pain appears in the rear tyre not the chain

I got 9,000 k's out of my Pilot Powers but after Labour Weekend trip up North it did take a hammering and you could visibly see the tyre thining....

[gammaguy]

while i was doing a bit of a tidy up i had the RG,s frame laser aligned by Chassis Repairs.Amazingly it was out in about five places and i ve had it from brand new.after a tweak here and there it now handles razor sharp.they guy said the factory tolerances are loose as and often are out from brand new.It made a huge difference having this done.