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Thread: To finish a petrol tank

  1. #1
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    To finish a petrol tank

    For my first bike I wanted something mechanically sound if not too pretty. Found what I needed in a crate damaged 2003 VTR 250 with low kms (3,600).

    15,000kms later I'm pleased with my choice coz it's never let me down.

    However - the damage that was done was that the petrol tank was dented a little and the paint was scraped off the tank. I filled the dent (it only loses a whisky measure of fuel - still does 340km per tank!) and resprayed the tank, slapped on some decals and put about 14 coats of lacquer on the bugger thinking that's all a paint shop would do. Now coz I've never been told I never knew that paint shops use funny paint and compressors etc. not just the stuff out of an aerosol that I used.

    Off I went thinking I'd done a great job then slapped a tank bag on the thing only to rip off all the lacquer in magnetic circles - as if that wasn't bad enough I'm filling up the tank at a petrol station and the wind kicks up blowing a fine spray across the tank which dissolves the finish - 6 months later the tank looks really nasty. (thanks ZRXER for pointing out what I knew already)

    So the question is can I sand, undercoat, colour coat and apply decals and get someone on KB that knows how to put proper hard wearing lacquer on the Bitch so I can sell the bike without dropping my dacks on the price (for what is essentially a great bike mechanically)?

    Or do I just have to pay through the nose to get the paint job done at an auto refinishers?
    In space, no one can smell your fart.

  2. #2
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    24th April 2005 - 21:33
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    Hi McJim,
    The automotive lacquer that is used to get the high quality finish you're after is a 2 pot paint which consists of the coloured paint that is mixed with a hardener. After the paint has been sprayed on, it is then baked in the spray booth. This heat then creates witchcraft to make the paint very hard.

    To answer your question.

    For the best results, I'd just bite the bullet and take it to a panel beater and get them to do it all. However if you want to sand the tank down and do all the prep work yourself, this will save you money at the panel beaters as it's the prep work that takes the time; in turn costing you more money!

    Good luck with it!
    Riding an "Antique Honda" since 2005...

    “The secret to creativity, is knowing how to hide your sources” ~ Albert Einstein ~

  3. #3
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    I've been researching this very topic and these guys seem to have the best solution.

    Not only does it come in a Motorcycle tank repair kit, which is exactly what your after. It's relatively cheap ($60 for the kit), can be brushed on without looking like shit (which mean no need for expensive air gear).
    Hayden - Evidence that even the mediocre can achieve great things.

    ((U+C+I) x (10-S))/20 x A x 1/(1-sin(F/10))

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lemur View Post
    I've been researching this very topic and these guys seem to have the best solution.

    Not only does it come in a Motorcycle tank repair kit, which is exactly what your after. It's relatively cheap ($60 for the kit), can be brushed on without looking like shit (which mean no need for expensive air gear).
    Yes... the Por15 people's stuff is great.

    With the paint... Do you have a compressor and spray-gun? If you do you can do the prep work,prime it,color coat(lacquer) it and get a proper paint place to do the clear coat that will protect your work.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by degrom View Post
    Yes... the Por15 people's stuff is great.

    With the paint... Do you have a compressor and spray-gun? If you do you can do the prep work,prime it,color coat(lacquer) it and get a proper paint place to do the clear coat that will protect your work.
    Mate - I don't even know what a compressor and air gun look like. As I said I only found out they existed a couple of weeks ago. The only compressors I've ever seen are the big diesel ones for driving pneumatic drills.

    I thought I could use spray cans to undercoat and colour coat then take the whole tank in and have a hard lacquer put over my work. Is this not the case? Will an auto refinisher's lacquer fail to adhere to aerosol acrylic?
    In space, no one can smell your fart.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by McJim View Post
    Mate - I don't even know what a compressor and air gun look like. As I said I only found out they existed a couple of weeks ago. The only compressors I've ever seen are the big diesel ones for driving pneumatic drills.

    I thought I could use spray cans to undercoat and colour coat then take the whole tank in and have a hard lacquer put over my work. Is this not the case? Will an auto refinisher's lacquer fail to adhere to aerosol acrylic?
    Problem with mixing all the product is that you never know what mix will work and witch will not.

    Best is to try and stick with one product maker. Like say PPG. Their product range are all compatible.(That's if you stay with the same kind of paint, urethane/Lacquer)

    The other problem you have is the Lacquer. The Thinners that is used with it tend to eat other paints. So you can't really use Lacquer over a Urethane color coat. But saying that... You can use a lacquer as a prime and color and get away with Urethane(It's the paint the car manufacturers use,very dangares for your health) clear coat.

    My advice is,if you are going to do lots of painting in the future,get a compressor and spray gun($300+ budget).

    If you want to do a really cheap paint job to get a quick fix. Spray Can's!!!

    Else get it done and use the money you save for something else.

    Hope this could help.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by McJim View Post
    Mate - I don't even know what a compressor and air gun look like. As I said I only found out they existed a couple of weeks ago.
    Don't worry... I discover new things all the time!!! (Like you don't use car oil in bikes... LOL)

  8. #8
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    The guys are right, McJim. Do the prep yourself (I suggest you take the tank right back to metal, since the paint you used will not make an effective base for automotive paints). For a proper job, the first coat will be a primer/undercoat, the second coat will be a filler that will be sanded smooth, then a 2pot colour coat, and finally a clear coat. I see no reason for that to cost more than $100 at a spraypainters. Else you could bring your tank here for a little holiday - I know people...
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    The guys are right, McJim. Do the prep yourself (I suggest you take the tank right back to metal, since the paint you used will not make an effective base for automotive paints). For a proper job, the first coat will be a primer/undercoat, the second coat will be a filler that will be sanded smooth, then a 2pot colour coat, and finally a clear coat. I see no reason for that to cost more than $100 at a spraypainters. Else you could bring your tank here for a little holiday - I know people...
    Watch this space then - if you see a bloke on a naked naked bike (i.e. the paint removed too) riding to Napier - it'll be me.
    In space, no one can smell your fart.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by McJim View Post
    Watch this space then - if you see a bloke on a naked naked bike (i.e. the paint removed too) riding to Napier - it'll be me.
    How are you going to get the paint off?

    If it's a metal tank it's really easy. Get some paint stripper and it's done after a few minutes... (Don't wast your time trying to sand it down...

  11. #11
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    Yeah Jim if you find a local panelbeater and mesmerise him with your scottish charm he might do it for a couple of dozen beers!!!
    Try it they might say do the prep and bring it in and well spray it for ya.
    I did it down south and the guy charged me for the paint and two doz for his time there are still a few good bastards out there you just need to find them!!!
    NEVER LET THE TRUTH GET IN THE WAY OF A GOOD STORY!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitana View Post
    Yeah Jim if you find a local panelbeater and mesmerise him with your scottish charm he might do it for a couple of dozen beers!!!
    Try it they might say do the prep and bring it in and well spray it for ya.
    I did it down south and the guy charged me for the paint and two doz for his time there are still a few good bastards out there you just need to find them!!!
    Cheers bud - am organising this as we speak.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by degrom View Post
    Problem with mixing all the product is that you never know what mix will work and witch will not.

    Best is to try and stick with one product maker. Like say PPG. Their product range are all compatible.(That's if you stay with the same kind of paint, urethane/Lacquer)

    The other problem you have is the Lacquer. The Thinners that is used with it tend to eat other paints. So you can't really use Lacquer over a Urethane color coat. But saying that... You can use a lacquer as a prime and color and get away with Urethane(It's the paint the car manufacturers use,very dangares for your health) clear coat.

    My advice is,if you are going to do lots of painting in the future,get a compressor and spray gun($300+ budget).

    If you want to do a really cheap paint job to get a quick fix. Spray Can's!!!

    Else get it done and use the money you save for something else.

    Hope this could help.
    PPG do a U-POL clear coat in a spray can that is hard and solvent resistant.

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