Quote Buddy L:"The bike's like BOOM, the motor's like BOOM!
the exhaust is like....b-BANG!!
the whole bike's like WAAAAEEEEEEHH!!!"
cool your an expert now!!
hire yourself out
Quote Buddy L:"The bike's like BOOM, the motor's like BOOM!
the exhaust is like....b-BANG!!
the whole bike's like WAAAAEEEEEEHH!!!"
you can teach the power wheelie section, i'm sure EVERYONE wants to learn how to do that.
Now who can we find to teach stoppies....?![]()
Quote Buddy L:"The bike's like BOOM, the motor's like BOOM!
the exhaust is like....b-BANG!!
the whole bike's like WAAAAEEEEEEHH!!!"
How many times did you do that drop off before the wheel came off the ground Rookie? luckly im good with a camera and got that split second timing in my clicker finger.![]()
Fork seals are a peice of piss and realy cheap to do yourself, cheap for parts, eg fork seals,fork oil (right grade), break cleaner and rags total of under 50 bucks and better working, better feeling forks afterwards, take it to the shop and they chuck in 4 hours of labour maybe their price is $350 just saved your self 300 bucks.well i do.
If we do the seals on Rookies bike( which im sure will happen again ruff ba$tard) will take photos and do a write up about it.
omg thats a good idea buddy.
we can photo and document our successful projects like fork seals, throttle cable replacements etc and have them imortalised this thread for other n00bs.
Both a piece of cake on ZXR's
Wheelie's - go in first gear up to about 10,000rpm hold it, blip clutch and full throttle, will lift nearly to balance point (have had it up there) and it is all down to skill from there on in. If you are good, you may eventually be able to hook second. I onlyh managed it once, but could normally get close to balance point in first for maybe 30m or so.
Stoppies - Good tyres are highly recommended! Believe it or not, the faster you are going (within reason, up to about 60kph) the easier it is. To begin with, just practise stopping with a stoppie, i.e. slow speed and when you stop the wheel lifts and comes down again.
Then practise from about 20kph or so, brace knees close up front of tank, and I found it easier to acutally lean forward a bit, bounce the front down, not overly hard, and at the same time apply the front brakes...progressivly not too hard or you will lock up. Cold tyres lock easily, I have done it many times, you will be fine, just release the front immediately and the bike *should* right itself no worries, I never had a bin doing wheelies or stoppies on my ZXR, and I never had maintenance issues with it either, and I used to ride eveyrday, and pull at least one wheelie and one stoppie eveyrday. the key is being smooth, mechanical equipment does not like harsh applications.
In fact, I miss my ZXR for how easy it was to do squidly little stunts on.
Keep it safe, empty carpark or closed road or AT LEAST very quiet area so that you dont hurt yourself any more than is necessary, more importantly - hurt others, or get done by the police.
I have some photos somewhere...not too good, but if I can find them, I would be happy to post them. Steve/Rookie seems to have the right idea going, small leads to bigger!
Nail your colours to the mast that all may look upon them and know who you are.
It takes a big man to cry...and an even bigger man to laugh at that man.
what do u mean 'blip' the clutch?
-Indy
Hey, kids! Captain Hero here with Getting Laid Tip 213 - The Backrub Buddy!
Find a chick who’s just been dumped and comfort her by massaging her shoulders, and soon, she’ll be massaging your prostate.
dont fully disengage and then re-engage, rather just enough to get the revs up and the clutch just on engaging the fly wheel and then release, all in a vary quick motion. You can fully clsoe and open the clutch lever, will still work...btu it is a longer process whereas 'blipping' is more like a fast roll off roll on of throttle on a bigger bike.
Nail your colours to the mast that all may look upon them and know who you are.
It takes a big man to cry...and an even bigger man to laugh at that man.
I never noticed increased clutch wear, and I did nearly 30,000kms on my ZXR. No more so than a fast gear change while going pretty hard in the twisties or a straight really. More hard on chain...but then The chain was semi -tired when i bought the bike, and was tired when i sold it...
Nail your colours to the mast that all may look upon them and know who you are.
It takes a big man to cry...and an even bigger man to laugh at that man.
so explain again
Take it upto 10,000 in 1st. Clutch in, let it out abit (this part i don't quite follow), then drop the hammer.
-Indy
Hey, kids! Captain Hero here with Getting Laid Tip 213 - The Backrub Buddy!
Find a chick who’s just been dumped and comfort her by massaging her shoulders, and soon, she’ll be massaging your prostate.
RPM in relation to engine speed and velocity. You are not idling at 500rpm at zero kmph. realistically you are at 8000rpm, rev to 12000rpm(note 4krpm difference) you are doing 30ish kmph and you are ready to put your weight back, hence less load to try and torque upwards. So when you blip the clutch, you are not giving it a harsh jolt as the flywheel speed relative to the engine speed difference is pretty low.
Dont get me wrong...the wear and tear will be increased...but not that much. I never noticed anything...and I did them a helluva lot.
As I said, if you are giving the bike a bit of stick out in the country with high rpm fast or flat shifts, then the wear and tear doing that is just as high.
Nail your colours to the mast that all may look upon them and know who you are.
It takes a big man to cry...and an even bigger man to laugh at that man.
so explain how to do it again, in easy words for me
-Indy
Hey, kids! Captain Hero here with Getting Laid Tip 213 - The Backrub Buddy!
Find a chick who’s just been dumped and comfort her by massaging her shoulders, and soon, she’ll be massaging your prostate.
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