Shotgun (single, double, pump, lever, bolt)
Shotgun Auto (non MSSA)
Rifle (single, double, pump, lever, bolt)
Rifle Auto (non MSSA)
MSSA
Pistol
Black powder (rifle, pistol, shotgun)
Air/Gas (pistol, rifle)
un-armed
wbks: With that single shot rifle you linked before, it mentioned that it has weaver bases, so you'd get a pair of weaver scope rings and you'd be fine for any scope that has a 1" tube, which is most of the scopes out there more or less... You can see the bases in the 2nd photo, 2 of them perched on top of the receiver, either side of the cutout.
http://www.guncity.co.nz/gun-city-1-...idp217171.html or something similar is what you'd use to mount the scope to the base. Steel is recommended for target guns, but probably doesn't matter if you're trying to put a gun together cheapish though, the extra $70 you'd spend on steel rings would be better put to use buying more ammo to practice with or a slightly better gun/scope... Can probably find a better deal than those guncity ones also
Thanks for that. About the flatter trajectory of the lighter 7mm08 or 243 bullet... What range would be expected? Does that mean you would adjust the scope more, or just aim above of the target slightly with the .308?
I guess that doesn't really matter all that much at the type of ranges you're likely to be shooting at, but basically the flatter the trajectory, the less important adjusting for range is. If you shooting at a fixed range and slowly dialing your scope onto the target then this doesn't matter all that much. For hunting it is more important as it removes another source of inaccuracy (the range estimation). If your bullet is dropping too fast at the target though (think .22 at 100m+) then basically you're going to get a lot of up/down variation in your target, because small differences in angle at the muzzle mean big differences in height on the target.
Also, faster bullets have less time to be affected by any wind but may get blown around more... not 100% on that count...
Actually, working out how to shoot based on wind speed/flight time/trajectory sounds like more fun than just keeping still and squeezing... I'm guessing a 180gr projectile would be a more consistant round at longer ranges, it probably wouldn't be as affected by wind as a 140 but 140 would have a flatter trajectory? But yea, probably wouldn't affect it that much untill you get out to almost a K away is my guess. With a 27 inch barrel I would assume that rifle is pretty accurate?
mod 44 set up- Cheap ammo, good looking, large caliber, looks like good quality, and is pretty cheap. So I know the rifle for $750 most, scope rings at $50, scope for $3-400? So that's actually $100 more than these stevens rifles. http://www.guncity.co.nz/7mm08-steve...idp160586.html or a 223 or even 308 equivalent. Or a 300 winmag for same price as the mod 44. Only thing is, even though the mod44 is only a single shot, so it can't be used for hunting, it has a 27 inch barrel which I would assume is more accurate than the savage.
Depends on the cross-section of the projectile too and a number of other things. Accounting for the wind is all fine and good in theory, but when you get gusty, coastal wind like you do here, it's more often than not a crapshoot as far as I know...
And if that kind of stuff sounds like more fun, then .22 at 100m might be more your thing? the bigger calibres don't get there until well beyond 200... I keep mentioning this because a .22 is a good place to start, cheap, forgiving of ammo quality etc. Doesn't make a thunderous boom, but get as much fun out of cheap and easy as you can before moving up to bigger guns, because once you do it's harder to go back. Better way to learn good shooting skills too, making the most out of a .22.
A thunderous boom is a negative? lol, only if I plan on shooting near town I guess, but there are only deer stalkers ranges around which probably already have a few loud rifles going? I guess a quiet rifle could let me actually shoot near by without annoying the people in their houses, but it's still little irresponsible to shoot without any hills behind the target when there is a highway half a K or so behind? I mean, even 22's can still injure someone at that range if you're unlucky enough, right?
Didn't mean the boom as a negative, although it can be... And yeah, with a .22 is more forgiving of where you're shooting it, with 1-2km being the max range possible, and much less if you make sure you keep your firing angles low.
You can use a single shot for hunting perfectly fine, you've just got to be more aware of the fact that you've got a longer reload time and longer target re-acquisition time. I'd still say just keep an eye out on trademe and don't rush it. You'll be able to pick up a bargain if you spend a few weeks watching what pops up and what things go for, and starting out with a gun with the scope already mounted will be the most economical.
So what do you think: .308 model 44 or 7mm08/.308/233 savage?
Personally I'd be watching trademe and waiting for a bargain to pop up. Also I wouldn't be too worried about building a hard-out custom target gun if you're only going to be shooting it at around 200m, get a good quality 2nd hand rifle off trademe and spend the difference on the other bits that'll be useful (50x mag spotting scope for instance).
http://www.rifleshootermag.com/balli...inchester.html seems to agree with you scumdog, best load there is a lightweight bullet with 4000ft/s muzzle velocity and it's still got 5 foot worth of drop at 500 yards (700mm at 460m)...
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