The firearm thread

[ManDownUnder]

The action on the slide was pretty aggressive, too - it came back with spring-shattering alacrity.

LOL true - imagine trying to hold onto it!

[Wolf]

LOL true - imagine trying to hold onto it!

I'd rather be shot at by that gun than fire it - I'd rather have a 115gr projectile coming at me at 1500fps than a 13oz slide coming at me at around 1800fps...

[ManDownUnder]

Here's another one I found (where's Mr Random...)

Good steel vs. high speed lead

[Mr Merde]

LOL true - imagine trying to hold onto it!

Saw a newbie once fire a .45 auto just like the movies.

He placed his left hand over the top of the hand holding the pistol.

First shot and the slide came back and took off a shit load of skin as was as smashing pretty hard into the knuckles of the left hand.

Give him credit, he didnt drop the pistol but he didnt fire it again until he got patched up and listened to the instructor tell him the proper way to hold and fire an auto pistol.

[Wolf]

Saw a newbie once fire a .45 auto just like the movies.

He placed his left hand over the top of the hand holding the pistol.

Only got that far before cringing and doing the "sharp intake of breath" bit - left me kinda bereft of reactions for the next bit (which was fortunately pretty much what went through my mind when I read the above so I didn't realy need to react, having already done so).

First shot and the slide came back and took off a shit load of skin as was as smashing pretty hard into the knuckles of the left hand.

[scumdog]

Saw a newbie once fire a .45 auto just like the movies.

He placed his left hand over the top of the hand holding the pistol.

First shot and the slide came back and took off a shit load of skin as was as smashing pretty hard into the knuckles of the left hand.

Give him credit, he didnt drop the pistol but he didnt fire it again until he got patched up and listened to the instructor tell him the proper way to hold and fire an auto pistol.

Ranks right up there with the newbie who pressed the bolt-release button on a Browning A5 - before he got his thumb out of the ejection port....nice extractor-sized hole punched in the side of his thumb.

[jrandom]

A mate (who is into his rotten-egg powder guns) shoots with Antique Arms Assn. and they have swinging targets at various distances. I think this is the easiest way to proceed. A metal frame in the ground and hang a metal dick from 2 chains so it can swing freely when hit and also give a good sound that also confirms a hit.

Shooting centerfire 30-calibre FMJs at those targets at 100 yards or less is a Bad Idea.

DAMHIK.

[deanohit]

I bought one yesterday for NZ$100 (a real steal IMO)
It's in good condition, only a fine brown patina on the blue, a clean shiny bore, worn but not dinged stock and a bright and shiny bolt with minor pitting on the handle.
The front sight is still on the barrel, but the rear sight is missing.

It was bought of a guy whos grandfather apparently bought it new with the Mossburg No.M4D scope and Parker Hale moderator fitted.

This is going to be a project for sometime, just a tidy up is all, nothing radical.
I will be leaving the Mossburg on it, as I quite like the look of it.

This rifle is way more accurate than me with the Winchester Subs I love to use, I didn't have a rest beside the hood of the truck, and the wind was gusty, but it still shot around an inch at 30 meters.
I'm sure with a proper rest and a nice day it should really tighten up.
Standing, it is easily minute of possum.

The scope is clear, with no signs of fogging.

The moderator got a clean this morning, it is worn, but still in good nick.
It works really well, the sound wasn't much more than a hard cough.

[Swoop]

WTF is that straw... I mean "scope"?

[deanohit]

WTF is that straw... I mean "scope"?

Mossberg No.M4D, it a 4x scope, very clear, just small and long.
Was original with the rifle, so is at least 60 years old.

[Mr Merde]

I have been off work for the 2nd half of last week, not too well with a raging ear infection.

Really hate daytime TV so I thought what I could do just sitting on the deck.

What I did was finish fitting the stock for my Remington Rolling Block.

Many hours of shaping, and fitting culminated in a forend and stock that fit nice and tight and feel right when shouldered.

After that I sat down with the woodwork and sanded the exterior. Started with 180 grit paper, then to 240, next 400, 800 grit and final finishing with 1000 grit paper.

The woodwork exterior felt as smooth as glass when finished this operation.

Next I mixed up a sealer of 2:1 raw linseed oil\turpintine.

Now spending the next 2 weeks slowly rubbing this into he wood. The turps thins down th oil and allows it to soak into the woodwork.

When it will not absorb any more of this solution I will then spend the next 2 months rubbing ( by hand) a little boiled linseed oil into the woodwork

What I will finish up with is a finish known as a London Finish.

A lovely soft satin sheen to the woodwork.

What I need now is some metal parts fabricated.

I need a 3/3 dovetailed piece of metal with a screw hole tapped in it so I can attach the forend to the barrel.

I need a piece of metal for the upper tang upon which I can mount the ladder sight.

The upper tang needs to be tapped.

Reason for the piece of metal here is that the laddert sight had indents that click into place and hold the ladder ar various angle. Unfortunately none of thes equate with vetical to the upper tang,

I could open up the ladder sight and cut a new indent but is may be easier to install a pice of metal on the tag with the right angle on that, then mount the sight to it.

I hope you undestand what I am trying to say.

Any one here in the Auckland area good with metal work, I can talk to.

Any advice would be appreciated.

This has so far been a 2 year project.


Chris


The very rough diagram below is how I have been thinking of mounting the sight. Paint is a bitch to draw with, so please excuse crudness of the diagram.

[Mr Merde]

I thought that I would continue from my previous posting.

It has now been a week since I finished the sanding of the buttstock and forend.

I have been diligently coating these pieces of woodwork with the linseed oil\turpentine mix, twice daily. They get approximately 12 hours between coats.

The buttstock has still been absorbing the mixture and after the 12 hours looks dry, the forend after the same period looks wet so it has fully absorbed the mixture.

I'm going to coninue coating the buttstock until it is at a similar stage of absorbtion.

Once both pieces will no longer absorb any more of the mixture I will leave them both to dry out for a further 24 hours then start rubbing in the boiled linseed oil. Quanitity to use is approximately 1 tspn of this oil rubbed into the wood until it feels dry. This needs to be done twicwe a day for approx. 2 weeks. Slowly decrerasing the amount of oil until I will be only using a few drops on my palm.

Last night I sat down and before I reapplied the oil\turps I dilligently and very lightly sanded the whole thing down again with even finer grit paper than I have used before. This stuff felt like talcum powder to touch.

The resulting finish feels a smooth as glass. There is a sheen to the wood that wasnt there before.

The original piece of wood was American Walnut (grade 2). In its raw state it had a very light brown colout to it, after a week of applying the oil mixture it is a very deep brown\reddish colour. The grain stands out and looks spectacular. The stock seems heavier (duh, I've added oil to it), this will help in moving the centre of balance a little further back towards the action.

I have ordered a butt plate from the US. 2 1/2 lbs of solid brass in a half shutzen style.

Been in touch with a KB board member who may be able to assist me with the sight mounting problem (thanks jrandom).

Started work on the escutchion for the forend mounting screw. Cutting a .223 case down and using the last 3mm of the base of this to inset into the woodwork.

Now I need to start getting together the materrials needed for the finish of the metal work. I have decided not to blue the barrel. I am going to "brown" it instead to a rich blum colour. Thought about doing this the old fashioned method. Takes a while but delivers great results and freaks people out when they ask how it was done.

In this method you literally piss on the metalwork every morning. You then leave it to rust during the day and in the evening you "card" the rust that has formed. You continue with this until you achieve the required depth of finish you are satisfied with and then you wax the barrel to seal the finish and stop the rusting process. I have been told that this method will take about 2 months to complete.

The project has taken 2 years so far so whats a month or two. I really am itching to fire this rifler but the wait will be worth it in the end.

As soon as her indoors gets back I will get some pics of the work done so far and post them up to this board. If it isnt too boring.

[The Pastor]

your going to rust your barrel?

[deanohit]

Geez Mr Merde, I''m looking forward to seeing the results of this beautiful sounding rifle!


I just spent the past week sanding down the old stock on my Model 67, started out with some 60 grit to strip off the varnish and dings and dents.

Then worked my way through the grits, getting rid of the gray wood, down to that beautiful reddish walnut.
Finished up with some 600grit, boy did that put a smooth looking shine on it.

it got it's first coat of oil today (3 parts turps to 1 part raw linseed oil, thats pops idea of a mix) and it soaked it right up.

Left to right below shows each stage:

[Mr Merde]

your going to rust your barrel?

Yep.

If you have ever handled a gun and amired the deep blue finish in the metal parts then what you are really admirig is the finish put on to a controlled rusting ofthese parts.

The deep black colour is achieved by steaming the rust.

Stainless steel firearms dont get blued

Some guns get a pakerised finish.

I prefer rust.