The firearm thread

[Mr Merde]

Geez Mr Merde, I''m looking forward to seeing the results of this beautiful sounding rifle!


I just spent the past week sanding down the old stock on my Model 67, started out with some 60 grit to strip off the varnish and dings and dents.

Then worked my way through the grits, getting rid of the gray wood, down to that beautiful reddish walnut.
Finished up with some 600grit, boy did that put a smooth looking shine on it.

it got it's first coat of oil today (3 parts turps to 1 part raw linseed oil, thats pops idea of a mix) and it soaked it right up.

Left to right below shows each stage:

Nice job.

My mixture was 2:1 raw linseed oil\turps. Slower drying and deeper penetrating for that.

This mixture penetrates the pores of the wood and seals them.

Now you have put the sealer on try hand rubbing some boiled linseed oil in.

First off give it a generous covering and let it be for about 12 hours. Then repeat the procedure.

Slowly decrease the amount over a matter of weeks.

When the wood will not absorb any more of the oil after the 12 hour period, you will be left with a sticky residue on the surface.

Rub this into the wood by hand ie use your hands.

Then use just a few drops for the whole piece and hand rub it all over the surface.

You will be supprised at the finish.

To maintain it just a few drops applied every couple of weeks or when ever you feel like it will keep the sheen.

This is the basis of what is known as a London Finish.

If you have ever seen an expensive English shotgun and it has a matt sheen that seems to penetrate the wood then this is probably what you are looking at.

[Wolf]

In this method you literally piss on the metalwork every morning. You then leave it to rust during the day and in the evening you "card" the rust that has formed. You continue with this until you achieve the required depth of finish you are satisfied with and then you wax the barrel to seal the finish and stop the rusting process. I have been told that this method will take about 2 months to complete.

I'm just dying to be there when some admiring person is running his hands along the metalwork and says "this is an exquisite finish" and you reply "yeah, I pissed on it".

What is "carding"/how do you do it?

I used to use the tubes of DIY blueing paste from the gunshop. I found that the best way of using it (got the richest blue and evenest finish) was to thoroughly clean the metalwork with meths to remove the finger grease then (wearing rubber gloves to protect the metal from my greasy mits as much as protect me from the blueing paste) douse the metal with boiling water from the jug, quickly dry it and vigorously apply the paste to the hot metal. I'd repeat that process daily until I had the desired colour then finish up with a liberal application of gun oil.

[The Pastor]

Yep.

If you have ever handled a gun and amired the deep blue finish in the metal parts then what you are really admirig is the finish put on to a controlled rusting ofthese parts.

The deep black colour is achieved by steaming the rust.

Stainless steel firearms dont get blued

Some guns get a pakerised finish.

I prefer rust.

i'd like to see a pic when its done!

what do you mean when you say rubbing in the oil? when talking about painting rubbing usally refers to a very light sand?

[Mr Merde]

i'd like to see a pic when its done!

what do you mean when you say rubbing in the oil? when talking about painting rubbing usally refers to a very light sand?

I mean literally using your hands and rubbing the oil into the wood.

There is a mild heat build up and the pores of the wood open just a little allowing the oil to penetrate the wood.

Using your hands will also assist in the polishing of the piece.

[Mr Merde]

I'm just dying to be there when some admiring person is running his hands along the metalwork and says "this is an exquisite finish" and you reply "yeah, I pissed on it".

What is "carding"/how do you do it?

....

carding is rubbing down the accumulated rust with a piece of card or canvas. This strips the rust down to a fine layer. As it rusts more these layers accumulate on top of each other and this is the depth you see in a good bluing job.

Never user the kitset stuff.

Trying to build up a blueing setup. Want to try the old methods, chemicals, tools etc..

Must be my age.

[ManDownUnder]

DAMHIK.

No idea at all...

Closest I ever got was being hit in the guts by a .177 air rifle pellet coming back out of the iron implement shed I shot it into. Not ideal.

[Mr Merde]

As promised here are some photos of my project.

1874 Remington Rolling Block Action, rebarreled with a 34" Badger full octagonal match barrel.

Chris

[Mr Merde]

Some more photos of my work

[deanohit]

Wow, that wood is already looking stunning, beautiful colour to it.

[Mr Merde]

And some more pictures (tell me if I'm boring you)

[Mr Merde]

Last few pictures

[Mr Merde]

So let me know what you think of my first attempt of getting a 134 year old action back into working order. Forgot to mention the action is from a Swedish shotgun version of the Rolling Block.

[deanohit]

Well, I for one am not going to get bored looking at those pics!

What calber is it?
I'm can't remember if you mentioned it earlier.

[Mr Merde]

No I havent mentioned the caliber.

Ive had the barrel reamed for 45-70

I am looking at throwing a 530 gn projectile at about 1300 fps. A .22 throws a 40gn projectile and a .308 throws a 175 gn projectile. The 50 BMG throws a 750 gn projectile.

About 65 grains of FFg black powder but toying with the idea of using Fg powder with 3 grains of FFFg as a starter

Should be good for 1000 yard accuaracy. MOA at that distance is 10 shots in a 10" circle and I have been told that is perfectly achievable with practice

[The Pastor]

NICE WORK _b WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO START PISSING ON IT?