The firearm thread

[Mr Merde]

Careful. Saying that you can use a pistol at more than 5 yards will get you a good talking to, around here...

I was useless. I could only get a group approximately of about 4 inches. The good Long Range Pistol Shooters were managing groups of 2" or less. I fact they had a friendly competition in the early 90's betweena LR Pistol shooter and a 300 yard prone rifle shooter and the pistol shooter won. Definitely p155ed the rifle shooter off.

The only stabilisation we were allowed was to rest the butt on a sand bag or similar.

5 sighters

then 10 shots to count in 30 min.

I used a Contender in 7mmTCU.
Nosler 130 gn Partition tip
25 gns of H332
Speer .223 brass fireformed to calibre.
Magum primer.

From a 10" barrel approx 2000fps

Kicked like a mule until you got used to it then you hardly noticed it

[Wolf]

Yup. This sits on top of the rear bolt return-spring dust cover.

The removeable cover that enables you to extract the bolt? Doesn't that make it difficult for removing said cover?

[Swoop]

Definitely p155ed the rifle shooter off.

Definately! Paying all that money on an extra piece of pipe which wasn't required...
With the price of scrap steel these days it would be worth it if he got the hacksaw out.

The removeable cover that enables you to extract the bolt?
Doesn't that make it difficult for removing said cover?

That's the one.
The unit replaces the cover and has the mount attached. Pulling it apart for cleaning is exactly the same as the normal factory fitted one.

[Wolf]

I was useless. I could only get a group approximately of about 4 inches.

I dare say you'd be better than me.

[Wolf]

Definately! Paying all that money on an extra piece of pipe which wasn't required...
With the price of scrap steel these days it would be worth it if he got the hacksaw out.

Bwahahahahaha! I can't bling you again.

That's the one.
The unit replaces the cover and has the mount attached. Pulling it apart for cleaning is exactly the same as the normal factory fitted one.

And it doesn't throw the sights out of whack taking the cover off and putting it back on?

[Swoop]

And it doesn't throw the sights out of whack taking the cover off and putting it back on?

Not as far as I have noticed.

I had one of the B-Square mounts that was an absolute PITA to live with. It moved around... a lot.
This is much better behaved.
(I won't have to put anything in the post when I actually take the piccie of it. All has been mentioned already!).

[Mr Merde]

The basic premise of a scout rifle as defined by the late Jeff Cooper.

http://pw1.netcom.com/~chingesh/scou...html#Telescope

[Wolf]

Given the paucity of mounting places for a scope on the SKS, I was also thinking of something like this (or comparable):

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=531958

Anyone had experience with red dot sights?

I thought of open rather than tube type as it should be small enough to mount where the rear sight of the SKS currently sits - between ejector port and gas return tube...

[Swoop]

Anyone had experience with red dot sights?

Me again...
I have a PDP2 tube red-dot.
Wherever the dot is, that is shot placement. Great for falling plates and steel!
The PDP 3(?) with the bigger tubes were known to be tricky, as the dot had to be towards the centre of the tube to be accurate.
Haven't played with the holographic-sights but they look tempting for short range stuff... but then again a ghost-ring sight might be simpler.

[Wolf]

Me again...
I have a PDP2 tube red-dot.
Wherever the dot is, that is shot placement. Great for falling plates and steel!
The PDP 3(?) with the bigger tubes were known to be tricky, as the dot had to be towards the centre of the tube to be accurate.
Haven't played with the holographic-sights but they look tempting for short range stuff... but then again a ghost-ring sight might be simpler.

Maybe it'd be quickest to ask you what you haven't fired/used.

The issue I have is that I don't get a particularly clear sight picture with the iron sights on the SKS. Not with my eyesight, anyway.

A couple of Chris's older rifles had nice clear sights, whereas I find it hard to get something other than a blurry blob with feathered/ghosted edges on the SKS and the Brno

[Mr Merde]

.....but then again a ghost-ring sight might be simpler.

The natural tendacy of the eye to centralise a point inside a circle. Very good for fast shooting.

[Mr Merde]

Maybe it'd be quickest to ask you what you haven't fired/used.

The issue I have is that I don't get a particularly clear sight picture with the iron sights on the SKS. Not with my eyesight, anyway.

A couple of Chris's older rifles had nice clear sights, whereas I find it hard to get something other than a blurry blob with feathered/ghosted edges on the SKS and the Brno

Black them.

Commercial stuff or I use a black felt tip pen on all the metal surfaces.

Stops the light being bounced around bu the shiny metal.

[Wolf]

Black them.

Commercial stuff or I use a black felt tip pen on all the metal surfaces.

Stops the light being bounced around bu the shiny metal.

Cheers, I'll give that a try.

So that's front post and just the rear surface of the rear sight? Or do I need to black the entire rear dovetail? Do I need to black the inside of the front shroud?

Edit: The sight picture on your lever action is way clearer than my SKS or Brno. I think the curved top of the rear sight helps. It also seems the dovetail is wider and deeper and the post is thicker - though that could just be an optical illusion.

[Mr Merde]

Cheers, I'll give that a try.

So that's front post and just the rear surface of the rear sight? Or do I need to black the entire rear dovetail? Do I need to black the inside of the front shroud?

It wouldnt hurt to do all surfaces. Try smoke from a candle and see if that maks a difference. If it does then too much light is getting to the metal surfaces.

Something to do with difraction.

Chris

[Wolf]

It wouldnt hurt to do all surfaces. Try smoke from a candle and see if that maks a difference.

And if it does, it's time to get out the matt-black paint?