I ordered this Pro-Oiler from Belgium at a cost of $360 to my door. www.pro-oiler.com It was here in about 10 days. It was all bubble wrapped and has very concise instructions.
The first thing to do was drill and tap 2x 3.25mm[3.5] holes with a 4mm tap that I just happened to have. The 'structions said the bolts were self tapping but didn't look it to me. Then bolt on the twin nozzle on the 'clean' sprocket using aforementioned holes. Easy. Fully clean chain and sprockets with Kero before you start!
Then you need to mount the controller on the dash or somewhere you can easy access. It has a 6 core cable that needs to be routed to the junction box, [under the seat is where I chose to put mine] Then you need to find a place to put the tiny oil pump and oil bottle[200mls approx]. I put the oil pump next to the junction box[It only has short wires] and put the oil bottle in the tail section firmly secured in place by some spare gloves!
If you look at the under seat photo[crap photo sorry!] you can see the junction box at centre right and the pump at centre top, zip tied and with an oil line going in and out.
I chose to tap into my tail light wiring for power as it is hard wired and close. On a bike with electronic speedo you have to also tap into the 'Hall sensor'. Once the sensor wiring is located, it is a matter of determining which one to use. Mine has; a power, an earth and an output, so it was just a matter of checking the wiring diagram. Oops! They've changed colours from the diagram I have so out comes the tester. With ign on; one has 12v, one has 4v approx and one was found to be earth. The 4v one is the boy. Connected everything as per instuctions and we're ready for programming. You have to spin the wheel x no of times to determine the correction factor which basically means that for me, there is 9.7 pulsed signals fed to the speedo for each wheel revolution. [This will change if I change sprockets as the sensor is on the front sprocket.] This needs to be programmed in to the controller and then your bikes individual requirements re chain size/length etc. There is an unbelievably complicated formula here to calculate this, but they give a Blackbird as an example so I used this as a benchmark. Sounds overly complicated doesn't it? But once done, you can dramatically increase or decrease oil flow on the move and when you stop,so does the oiler. As it is speed sensitive, at high speed, it is pumping 2x what it would cruising and at low speeds, the reverse. I am still fine tuning but it works and hopefully will have been worth it!
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Originally Posted by LAV 750
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