Mechanical/restoration supervision sought

[psyguy]

a set of intake boots (cyl head side) is a good move too.

those were/are in remarkably good condition, i guess they must have been replaced at some stage

[psyguy]

FYI; on my GS750 I got some proper green sheet 'Unifilter' foam & a hot glue gun & replaced the mutton cloth(!!!) wrap it had when I first bought it. I also whipped the 2 layers of fine wire mesh out & I oil it with a teaspoon of the gloopy unifilter foam filter oil mixed with a teaspoon of turps, it does get in & avoids overoiling too

thanks!
what was the effect of taking that wire mesh out?

ps. mutton cloth(!!!) wrap - wtf ?!

[Eurodave]

thanks!
what was the effect of taking that wire mesh out?

ps. mutton cloth(!!!) wrap - wtf ?!

Nothing overly noticable, I just thought all that mesh must be restrictive & unnecessary,prolly breathing freer & running a little leaner now, would have prefered a K&N filter but theyre very pricey

The motor wasnt running (& very smoky cause it had been overfilled with 5 litres of oil!!! ) when I bought it & had a piece of muttoncloth wrapped around the metal airfilter frame!! There are gorrillas amongst us
Got it going good now, finally....

[psyguy]

Nothing overly noticable, I just thought all that mesh must be restrictive & unnecessary,prolly breathing freer & running a little leaner now, would have prefered a K&N filter but theyre very pricey

The motor wasnt running (& very smoky cause it had been overfilled with 5 litres of oil!!! ) when I bought it & had a piece of muttoncloth wrapped around the metal airfilter frame!! There are gorrillas amongst us
Got it going good now, finally....

i know what you mean about k&n - got a quote for nz$117 and 6-8 weeks delivery time!
mind you, if you're still interested there are some on ebay going for us$25 + airmail to nz us$23
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0383531&rd=1,1

now, 5 litres of oil?! doesn't the clutch cover have an imprint 2800ml ? and isnt't there an oil level window ?

[psyguy]

some help needed again please

i want to adjust the carb float levels

haynes manual suggests to do this by:
inverting the carbs and measuring the distance from the mixing chamber body flange to the top of the floats when in the "closed position"

does the "closed position" mean that the float needle valve has to be pressed in - like in a photo #1 ?
(photo #2 shows the floats just resting on the valve but not pressing it)

thanks again

[psyguy]

i want to adjust the carb float levels (see the post above)

huh, someone must have done this before, no ?!

[pete376403]

What does the Suzuki manual say about it, or does that only cover the older slide type carbs?

Also re-reading your post - I think it means with the weight of the float only, is not pressing against the spring loading. Also what are the float needle tips like - any wear?

[psyguy]

What does the Suzuki manual say about it, or does that only cover the older slide type carbs?

Also re-reading your post - I think it means with the weight of the float only, is not pressing against the spring loading. Also what are the float needle tips like - any wear?

suzuki manual (although referring only to vm carbs) doesn't go as far to say "floats in the closed position" - it only says "carburettors inverted"
after some thinking i deducted that this must then mean "only resting on the needle" because if the needle needed to be pressed closed this would have been mentioned explicitly
what do you think?

in this regard, hayne's manual even though saying more than suzuki's is actually less clear than suzuki's...


the reason i asked is because i hear these carbs are very sensitive to the correct setting of the floats (the height has to be within the +/- 1mm margin) and depressing the valve adds 5mm or so


didn't check the float needles really - they all appear consistent with each other and anyway i'm planning to take the carbs appart and check everything on a later date when i have the complete rebuild kits in front of me


thanks for your opinion pete, it helped provoke some more though on my part!

cheers

[psyguy]

on an issue hopefully simpler than the carb float level - i want to try repair a damaged thread (on the frame) for a footrest mounting bolt
i take this is fine thread M10, so M10x1.25

would anyone have the tap in this size that i could borrow?
help much appreciated!

ps
or is this where someone tells me that jap's don't follow iso standards for threads???

[Dodgyiti]

or is this where someone tells me that jap's don't follow iso standards for threads???

They have seemed pretty standard in my explorations of them.
Can't help with the M10 unless it's just a tap you are after, but if the thread is a bit stuffed a Helicoil would be prudent to install for piece of mind. Can't help you there either as I only have M8/M6 and I pick up an M5 later this week. But keep those sizes I listed in mind as you may need them later.
You have done very well getting that engine apart given it's age, without having too many stuck bolt problems, buy a Lotto ticket.
The best Helicoil kit is about $70 and comes with 10 coils, they are about $2 each to keep it topped up. On sale at Waitamata Hydralics in Henderson- make a trip there for your steel and stainless steel cap screws etc as well- they have a great range in stock.

[psyguy]

They have seemed pretty standard in my explorations of them.
Can't help with the M10 unless it's just a tap you are after, but if the thread is a bit stuffed a Helicoil would be prudent to install for piece of mind. Can't help you there either as I only have M8/M6 and I pick up an M5 later this week. But keep those sizes I listed in mind as you may need them later.
You have done very well getting that engine apart given it's age, without having too many stuck bolt problems, buy a Lotto ticket.
The best Helicoil kit is about $70 and comes with 10 coils, they are about $2 each to keep it topped up. On sale at Waitamata Hydralics in Henderson- make a trip there for your steel and stainless steel cap screws etc as well- they have a great range in stock.

hi dodgyiti

yes, at this stage i'm only after an m10x1.25 tap (ie. fine threaded m10)
is that what you have?

with regards to m6 & m8 helicoils i am actually going to need them to fix some cam cover threads as well as a few header pipes ones

but yeah, you're right, i had no problems with any stuck bolts, if anything my problem was quite the oposite, all the bolts were all too loose so i had to helicoil everything to get a proper torque...

btw, those helicoils kits usually come with 1,5d coils whereas the recomended size for alluminium is 2d

$70 is a good price, i was quoted $10-30 more at several places!

[jonbuoy]

I have an M10 1/1.5/1.75 in my kit not much help I know but I got the whole kit off trademe for $60 or so a 60 piece set - there are some bigger ones on there that might have the size you need. Its paid for itself already - its only chinese crap but I still managed to cut a fairly long thread on an A2 M10 bolt.

[pete376403]

How concerned are you with "absolute factory" as far as your resoration goes - because the PO of the GS1000 (the parts bike) replaced all the hex head bolts with inhex (allen) stainless. Problem would be - if you replaced some but not all, could look a bit dodgy. However, if you could live with that, I've got the threads you need

[pete376403]

And re the float levels - you could make up a guage tube that attaches to the bowl drain plug hole and goes up the side of the carb- as per the Suzi manual. That removes any doubt at all as then you are seeing the float level as it really is.

And check out this regarding carb rebuilds:
http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

[psyguy]

And re the float levels - you could make up a guage tube that attaches to the bowl drain plug hole and goes up the side of the carb- as per the Suzi manual. That removes any doubt at all as then you are seeing the float level as it really is.

i thought of doing this AFTER instaling the carbs on the bike, but i guess i can actually do it on the bench, can't i?

And check out this regarding carb rebuilds:
http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

yup, have it, a fantastic pictorial!