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Thread: Suzuki RF900 "Cush" drive needs fixing? Please help

  1. #16
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    Okay, I've found the link.

    Yep. It's the alternator cush drive.

    You see, when these bikes came out a few Americans had the alternator drive shear on them. Lawsuits were threatened. Suzuki changed the design of the unit to incorporate a cushioning mechanism in the drive to the alternator. The trouble is, this $20 part fails very easily through wear and tear.

    From what I know, its an easy fix, and a cheap part.

    The trouble is, getting at the bastard. The labour costs are what causes the expense. And IIRC you need to split the crankcase to get at it, though I'd have to look at the manual to confirm.

    Unfortunately, I've never done the fix, as my bike's an RS and therefore pre-cush drive.

    How are your skills mechanically? Its apparently not too hard to fix.
    And I to my motorcycle parked like the soul of the junkyard. Restored, a bicycle fleshed with power, and tore off. Up Highway 106 continually drunk on the wind in my mouth. Wringing the handlebar for speed, wild to be wreckage forever.

    - James Dickey, Cherrylog Road.

  2. #17
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    Ho, my apologies. Not everything is built like a Honda single

  3. #18
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    9th August 2005 - 19:52
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    With those miles it's pretty much guaranteed to be the alternator drive.
    In the pic below parts 38-41 are the alternator drive that is in your bike. Earlier bikes had parts 34-37. Ironically, 38-41 were meant to cure an occassional failure in parts 34-37 but instead of curing the problem they made it 100x worse!!
    It's virtually always part 40 that fails. It's the single biggest problem with the RF900. Most reliable way of fixing it is reverting back to using parts 34-37.

    http://andreas.warby.org/E4Alternator.gif

    Have a read through the 2nd half of this thread too - http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=37435
    Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem

    Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity

  4. #19
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    2nd April 2005 - 11:58
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    I know for damn sure there's another thread on here with comments from someone who's done this job... and it cost him $20... and a little effort - not too much from memory.... Hmmm shall get sleuthing on that one....
    Found a couple of bits and pieces...
    Quote Originally Posted by megarich View Post
    Hi all
    Well I now have everything going on the bike.
    Found out the problem with the rev counter was a cooked resistor. Replaced this and all is fine.
    I now have intimate knowledge of most of the electrical system on an RF.
    For those that are not aware, if your volage regulator craps it self it can casue quite a bit of damage to other electrical components due to overvoltage.
    Quote Originally Posted by megarich View Post
    Hi all,
    Thanks for your replies
    Got a price for one from a genuine part - $321.00 + gst ex Japan
    Talked to an Auto Sparkie and came up with a suitable replacement for $36.00.
    Uses a standard Bosch regulator mounted remotely with fly leads into generator.
    Cheer
    and the one I was refering to...
    I should get a prize for finding that! Very Sniperish....
    They shall not grow old as we that are left grow old.
    Age shall not weary them nor the years condemn.
    At the going down of the sun and in the evening,
    we will remember them

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mental-Trousers View Post
    With those miles it's pretty much guaranteed to be the alternator drive.
    In the pic below parts 38-41 are the alternator drive that is in your bike. Earlier bikes had parts 34-37. Ironically, 38-41 were meant to cure an occassional failure in parts 34-37 but instead of curing the problem they made it 100x worse!!
    It's virtually always part 40 that fails. It's the single biggest problem with the RF900. Most reliable way of fixing it is reverting back to using parts 34-37.

    http://andreas.warby.org/E4Alternator.gif

    Have a read through the 2nd half of this thread too - http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=37435
    Very good links on that thread MT, and worth repeating http://andreas.warby.org/photos/2003/0728.html

  6. #21
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    26th April 2007 - 14:21
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    Man you are all so helpful thats wicked... I'll get to work contacting these genius people!! Thanks a million, now where do I start... No mechanically I have no tools and pretty much suck, but have a contact who can do it... I just need to print all this off and go from there... that bit mentioning rev counter, mine, was shooting up and down on the motorway prior to it dying, maybe that was voltage stuff.. guess I'll find out soon enough. SO glad oyu guys know all this, Mt Eden Motorcycles guys just said it was $1400 ex Japan, not sure if thats plus labour?? Anyhow, I will print this off and decide what to do next...
    Last edited by chadnz; 27th April 2007 at 11:32. Reason: Didn't realise there were more threads

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by chadnz View Post
    Hi all,

    My RF900, 1998, has 35000miles on it, and the battery doesn't charge... one place said I needed a new alternator generator, costing $1400 brought over from Japan, and another mate said that its a common occurence at these miles on RF900s... and its just the "Cush drive". Can anyone give me some info on where to get parts and how to fix it please? Any ideas would be wicked. Thanks, Chad, chadnz@gmail.com
    have a sparky build you one of these ...(applies to the FJ1200 in this instance but will work on anything ..) i have installed this on my FJ, complete with the adjustable voltage mod ..

    Semi-legal stuff first ----

    This design may be distributed freely with my consent (I'd like to know
    where it goes). It may not, under any conditions, be sold.

    ================================================== =================


    As you have undoubtedly discovered, the price that Yamaha is asking
    for it's OEM voltage regulator is outrageous.

    The circuit described here works as a replacement at a fraction of
    the cost. It also allows the voltage regulator to be relocated to a
    cooler location on the bike, such as adjacent to the battery.

    The circuit is based on a Texas Instruments TL594 pulse-width-modulation
    control IC. The internal oscillator, in this case set at approximately
    20 kHz, generates a sawtooth waveform sweeping between Vcc and ground.
    That waveform is fed to some logic to create a square wave of variable
    duty cycle. The duty cycle is controlled by the output of the error
    amplifiers. In this circuit, the voltage sensed from the motorcycle
    battery is divided down and compared against a precision 5 volt
    reference. If the battery voltage drops, the output of the error
    amp drops and the duty cycle decreases. Vice versa should the battery
    voltage rise too far. The voltage divider is calculated to give a
    divided output of 5v with a nominal battery voltage of approximately
    13.8 volts. This corresponds to the battery charging at about 2/3
    potential max charging rate.

    The variable-duty-cycle square wave is fed through more logic and
    then drives two independent output transistors. Only one is needed.
    In this circuit, the output is used in an emitter-follower configuration
    so that the waveform is inverted. That is to say that as the
    battery voltage decreases, the waveform duty cycle is increased so that
    is spends more time at the 'high' voltage.

    This output drives the gate of a heavy-duty MOSFET which energizes the
    alternator rotor field windings and in turn produces a charging current
    from the stator windings. As the duty cycle of the MOSFET driving
    waveform is increased, the average voltage across the rotor windings is
    increased and therefore the average stator output current is increased.

    (The catch diode between the drain on the MOSFET and the battery
    voltage connection (i.e. across the stator brushes) is for protection.
    Any good moderate current (the 1N4004 is rated for 1A continuous,
    10A peak) rectifier diode will work here.)

    *** Update: 8/23/95: Use a beefier diode that the above stated as the
    catch diode. I think the 1A rating here is too light. ***

    In slightly more lay terms, as the load on the electrical system
    is increased (high beam turned on, grip heaters on, etc), more
    energy is drained from the battery. The voltage regulator senses
    the lower battery voltage caused by the drain and increases the
    alternator output current to match the load and maintain battery
    charge.

    As I, and other FJ owners, have experienced, riding an FJ for a long
    distance on a hot day can cause the battery to overcharge and boil
    dry. Over time, this can become a permanent condition. What has
    happened is that the IC in the stock regulator has succumed to the
    heat (of both the big air-cooled engine and the air temperature) and
    failed such that the driving transistor (in the OEM regulator, it's
    a bipolar Darlington) is stuck on. This causes the average stator
    voltage to rail high and the alternator just pumps out as much
    current as possible continuously. Hence batteries overcharge and
    boil dry in short order.

    This replacement circuit can be constructed and wired to the
    alternator using the stock IC regulator bracket. i.e. the
    replacement regulator can be placed anywhere on the bike, within
    reason, instead of in the stock position which is subject to
    excessive heat.

    When I called for a quote on a replacement voltage regulator for
    my '89 FJ1200 in October '94, my local Yamaha shop told me it would be
    $190. Mail order prices were barely less. The components in
    the replacement circuit should be easily had for less than $10 or
    $15. The TI TL594 IC is only about $1.

    And OBTW, yes, it does work. ;-) It works very well indeed.


    Jeff Earls, Portland, OR and by mail:
    Old adress: Beaverton, OR
    Old emailadress
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails reg_pic2.pdf  
    Last edited by SARGE; 27th April 2007 at 11:44.
    Life is tough. It's tougher when you're stupid

    SARGE
    represented by GCM

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chadnz View Post
    Man you are all so helpful thats wicked... I'll get to work contacting these genius people!! Thanks a million, now where do I start... No mechanically I have no tools and pretty much suck, but have a contact who can do it... I just need to print all this off and go from there... that bit mentioning rev counter, mine, was shooting up and down on the motorway prior to it dying, maybe that was voltage stuff.. guess I'll find out soon enough. SO glad oyu guys know all this, Mt Eden Motorcycles guys just said it was $1400 ex Japan, not sure if thats plus labour?? Anyhow, I will print this off and decide what to do next...
    Get in touch chap... I might (MIGHT) be able to ease your pain... PM sent.
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SARGE View Post
    ...... From the text "MOSFET which energizes the
    alternator rotor field windings"...
    I thought you may have found a circuit that could be used on other bikes, but it will only work on an alternator that does not have a permanent magnet as its rotor.
    The Permanent magnet type usually runs in oil directly off the crankshaft where as the FJ1200 and the RF's alternator run dry.
    A 'dry' system allows the use of a coil for the centre (rotor) magnet which can be controlled. ie Need more output - increase the voltage on the rotor.
    The permanent magnet type alternator used on a large number of bikes these days allows no control. The alternator is producing maximum output all the time, meaning a very robust output regulator / rectifier must be employed. Heat is the by product of this arrangement and failure is more a case of 'when' not 'if'.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warr View Post
    I thought you may have found a circuit that could be used on other bikes, but it will only work on an alternator that does not have a permanent magnet as its rotor.
    The Permanent magnet type usually runs in oil directly off the crankshaft where as the FJ1200 and the RF's alternator run dry.
    A 'dry' system allows the use of a coil for the centre (rotor) magnet which can be controlled. ie Need more output - increase the voltage on the rotor.
    The permanent magnet type alternator used on a large number of bikes these days allows no control. The alternator is producing maximum output all the time, meaning a very robust output regulator / rectifier must be employed. Heat is the by product of this arrangement and failure is more a case of 'when' not 'if'.
    sorted ... ya .. i figured the RF would have the same type of system but i wasnt sure .. i had a mate of mine whip this system up for me .. cost $30 and a box of beers to do it and it works great ..remote mounting is do-able also so i have mine mounted inside one of my air ducts for cooling
    Life is tough. It's tougher when you're stupid

    SARGE
    represented by GCM

  11. #26
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    26th April 2007 - 14:21
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    Ok great, well my mate has his wedding next week so can't do it for a couple of weeks... if your mate wants to do it again then i will happily pay more than that!!!!

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