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Thread: Know much about bicycles?

  1. #1
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Know much about bicycles?

    A few months ago I bought a helmet that fit me correctly for the first time in, err ever.
    Previously I had thought that the helmets I was wearing were fitting but that I was getting pain from pressure points on the forehead.
    Because of this I would rarely ride for longer than 1.5 hours without a break and after that no more than an hour.
    Now that my helmet is no longer the first reason for a stop it has become apparent how much my level of fitness is affecting my ability to ride "efficiently" or for long periods with any real comfort.

    So I have decided that after 4 years out of the push bike saddle it is time to get back some semblance of fitness.

    Now for the query - having not bought a bike in over a decade what sort of brands / names should I be looking for?
    Being 6'3" 191.5cm is going to limit my choices according to most of the comments on TradeMe.

    Most, if not all riding will be road riding.
    I want to commute on it at least 3 times a week and as my fitness levels (read that lap times) increase move this up to 5 times a week.
    Fairly hilly terrain (coming home will be a much heavier slog, almost all uphill ).
    Cannot afford to buy new (unless rediculously cheap)

    Have you had a bike in the past that met these requirements that your remember the name of?
    Do you know someone tall who rides a bicycle? What do they ride?

    Any serious information gratefully recieved.

  2. #2
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    26th January 2007 - 10:27
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    Sayam5 rides one which means, like Hyosungs, they are gay

    MFSC lives on!

  3. #3
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    29th May 2006 - 22:14
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    Basically you want a large frame, (Surprise), and get a known brand, they havent changed much in th 10 years you've been away. Like Cannondale, KHS, Avanti, Bauer, Giant, Trek. Having owned an alu Cannondale, I would not get another one, although nice and light, they are too hard, brittle and you get too much road feel thru the hands. If getting alu, get one with carbon forks at least. Just my opinion.... Good luck
    (oh, and bicycles are not a pop topic around here )
    Get your motor runnin, head out on the Highway ....

  4. #4
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    16th March 2007 - 07:15
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    If you want value for money Avanti is always a good choice - being a NZ brand. Second hand you could probably pick up something reasonably light (whcih you will need if you are doing a few hills). I see some second hand carbon bikes for reasonably money, but woudl stick to aluminium for long term use.

    You should have no problems getting fitted at your hight. I know Karl from Hotcycles is 6-4 and seems to go ok on a pushbike (dont think his is custom made - but might be wrong). Definately a large size frame though.

  5. #5
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    25th June 2003 - 13:54
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    You'll be wanting a 58 or 60cm frame. I've got a old cannondale which was cheap which I use for commuting.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...829397.htm?p=1

    Something like that, but in your price range would be pretty good.

  6. #6
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    28th August 2006 - 18:27
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    hey man, im just over the hill from you, and weird thing was this morning i was thinking of selling my road bike and getting a mountain style bike.... The trouble I have found is that the gearing on road bikes is too high (especially for kowhai Road, or for that matter all of beach road!). So if you choose a Road bike make sure it has 3 chain rings on the front to give a decent low gear for the hills. Mine (an avanti corsa - was quite a top bike bike in 1999) has only 2 chain rings and the gearing is too high, i cant be assed changing them tho.

    Road bikes are unstable as well, especially if you are just getting back into it again. mountain style bikes have wider bars and more comfortable geometry, gives better control. youd need at least a 50cm mtb frame

    My suggestion is get a used Avanti Barracuda or similar mountain bike - they are nothing flash but have front shocks (i think the new ones have disk brakes) and are not so heavy you cant lift them, and put on some smooth road tyres and crank up the pressures.

    however if you want a light weight road bike you can buy mine, $400. pm for more if thats the case. its a size 55cm, im 6'1" and seat can go a lot higher.
    Last edited by ridetwins; 11th May 2007 at 09:55. Reason: to put in frame size.
    Speed is life, altitude is life insurance.....

  7. #7
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    17th July 2003 - 23:37
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    Quote Originally Posted by forkoil View Post
    (oh, and bicycles are not a pop topic around here )
    Probably not but then I only want it to increase my bike fitness to ride more.
    How can it be a bad thing to enjoy your riding more?

    Thanks for your input guys keep it coming.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by forkoil View Post
    (oh, and bicycles are not a pop topic around here )
    Bullshit. Just the few dickheads found riding them.....
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  9. #9
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    29th May 2006 - 22:14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    Bullshit. Just the few dickheads found riding them.....
    Speaking of which.....
    Get your motor runnin, head out on the Highway ....

  10. #10
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    5th December 2006 - 18:22
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    I don't agree with you getting a mountain bike for commuting. I did that and was passed by all the road bikes whose riders weren't pedalling while I was working my ass off. The difference is of course in the tyres and mountain bike tyres running at 45psi and my road bike running at 115psi.

    I commut(ed) {before getting the CBR you understand} 30km one way 3 days a week. The time came down from 1:32 (Avanti Black Thunder MTB) to 1:11 (Avanti Sprint Roadbike) running from Whitby to Wellington city.

    Things to consider
    - Carbon forks (takes a lot of shock out of riding)
    - Carbon seat stem (same reason)
    - 8 or 9 function Computer (the Cadence measurement is th most important)
    - 3 chain ring if you can find them (quite rare and you *can't* swap them without changing everything on the bike)
    - Kevlar armour tyres (4 punctures in 10 days was enough for me)
    - Lots of flashing red lights, $2 shop sells the ones you pay $34 for in the bike shop
    - Good riding suits to cut down drag plus arm and leg warmers for winter
    - HiViz vest, anklets and anything else you can get (you think you're vulnerable on a motorbike? Well...)
    - Get the bike professionally fitted to you and your riding style
    - Get clip pedals but *ensure* that they are set to the lightest settings until you get used to them (After 600kms of riding with no falls, I had 4 in one day because they were set as tight as they could go by the shop)

    Sure I can think of other stuff, but that'll do for now

  11. #11
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    19th November 2003 - 18:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grub View Post
    I don't agree with you getting a mountain bike for commuting. I did that and was passed by all the road bikes whose riders weren't pedalling while I was working my ass off. The difference is of course in the tyres and mountain bike tyres running at 45psi and my road bike running at 115psi.
    Ahhh but running say on your MTB at higher pressures than a knobblie will alleviate some of that difference. review of slicks on mtb http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Tire/product_72376.shtml


    I commute with a roadie on my MTB and I can keep up working a bit harder and drafting, but as soon as it gets a little rough he has to slow down, he cant jump curbs or cut through parks or any of that other stuff that urban biking can invole, all I need to do now though is to get some of the above tires!


    And BD definatly get some "clipless" pedals, get some MTB ones as they look like normal shoes and have the clipping mechanism recessed so you can walk around in them unlike roadie shoes.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grub View Post
    I don't agree with you getting a mountain bike for commuting.
    For the purpose of further investigation I had a look at a couple of bike shops today.
    I NEED to lose another 20 kg BEFORE a modern streeter is a good idea according to the guys in the shop, who then steered me toward MTB's even though these are cheaper.

    Having looked around I may layby something because Trade me is not a whole lot cheaper and there is not a lot of xl frames let alone xxl frames for below 1,000 for just a bare frame.

    Having looked, ridden and sat on about thirty bikes today.
    Definitely think I need an XXL or at least an XL frame.
    XL frame is definitely rideable but is not as stable in a turn as I would like.
    Definitely need an off roader (the road ones twist when I pedal and change gears when I pedal hard).

    Given the minimal difference in price I want to get Disc brakes and if it is shocked get lock stop shocks. This is because I intend to ride all weathers and there are some very steep hills approaching very busy intersections on the way to work. (also contrary to my motorcycle riding can be a bit of a loose unit on a bike)
    I would prefer not to have the rear shocked as there will be a couple of good hill climbs on the way back
    Initially these hills will be too much but the whole point is to get fitter!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sAsLEX View Post
    Ahhh but running say on your MTB at higher pressures than a knobblie will alleviate some of that difference. review of slicks on mtb
    The bike shop I am thinking about buying from says will swap for a wet and dry slick at no charge if I want.

  14. #14
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    All of above goes out the window a bit if I actually find a good cheapie on TradeMe.

  15. #15
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    If you are BIG big then a Clydesdale bike like Kona Hoss are designed for the extra punishment you would give a frame..... though pricey.

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