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Thread: Headlight heights

  1. #1
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    Headlight heights

    Hey, did a search for this and couldn't find anything (even slightly relevant).

    As far as I can tell, my headlights (dual-headlights on a FZR400) are pointing too low, and perhaps not far enough apart... Are there any guides or easy tips on how to get the correct height and width that a set of dual headlights should cover.

    PS. I already know how to adjust the headlights up/down, and left/right. It's just how up/down, and left/right they should be that I need to know

    Thanks in advance people
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  2. #2
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    A vehicle testing station or a garage licensed to do WOFs should be able to assist.
    "Standing on your mother's corpse you told me that you'd wait forever." [Bryan Adams: Summer of 69]

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hitcher View Post
    A vehicle testing station or a garage licensed to do WOFs should be able to assist.
    except the bastards will want money... and if I had money, I'd be spending it on a new helmet...
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  4. #4
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    Find a wall with a flat area. Put lights high beam with bike close to wall. make a mental note of where the brightest bit is. Wheel backwards. Beam should stay pretty much in the same spot but of course the area of illumination will get bigger. If it drops wind the adjusting screws.
    For a bike with 2 headlights do each one independantly as in cover one.
    Beam should not diviate to the left or right either

    Up & down it should drop perhaps a little. Easiest way to check is find a dark street, NO lights, say in the country and adjust it to give the best and firtherest visability. Like Wallace Road per say Rob

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warr View Post
    Find a wall with a flat area. Put lights high beam with bike close to wall. make a mental note of where the brightest bit is. Wheel backwards. Beam should stay pretty much in the same spot but of course the area of illumination will get bigger. If it drops wind the adjusting screws.
    For a bike with 2 headlights do each one independantly as in cover one.
    Beam should not diviate to the left or right either

    Up & down it should drop perhaps a little. Easiest way to check is find a dark street, NO lights, say in the country and adjust it to give the best and firtherest visability. Like Wallace Road per say Rob
    Thanks for that, it was the exact advice I was searching for
    There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? -Clerks

  6. #6
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    Here's some other stuff from the LTNZ website, should help.

  7. #7
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    I stopped by a wof shop one morning and the old buggers thought it was great someone asked them about stuff and got me a coffee, they went on a bit but did say what the would and wouldn't pass etc. I make sure my lights are right while moving on a dark road (no lights, all the ones on the way to my house!) as you can set them while still and then you get on and they are way too close! Mine I can reach over and move tho' you might have to take a screwdriver and do a few runs, easier to set the full beam first I recon cos thats what you use for "fun rides" with less/no cars around,on mine and other bikes I've ridden there seems too be too much "dip" between high and low beams. You get to set the high right for fun rides and low is a bit low or set low right and when you flick the high on it is so far ahead there's not much on the road (it's all diffused by then) and up in the trees.

    Have fun, FYI; 50+ bulbs are readily available too.
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  8. #8
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    I was told this by the wof/warrant people...

    -Get a flat surface with a wall. Mark on the wall the height of the centre of your headlight.
    -Move the bike back so that the headlight lens is 3m away from the wall.
    -sit on the bike and have someone hold you upright so you can sit on as if you were riding it.
    -On "High" the centre of the bright part of the light on the wall should be as high as where you marked the wall at the start, so level.
    - On "Dip" the bright part should be about 50-60mm lower.

  9. #9
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    Thumbs up spot the light

    well thats that sorted then Rob
    it's great to have bright people around to shed some light on these things
    Lifes Just one big ride - buckle up or hang on

  10. #10
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    BASS-TREBLE is bang on as per what the testers want to see. What I do tho is set the highbeam (as it's what you use when riding faster/funrides not just following cars etc) to my open road focal distance, I found I was riding out of my beam lenght (the beam couldn't be raised anymore or it was to dim to be usable) so I upgraded the bulb to 130/90w and made a relay loom so my electrics didn't poo out and all the power would get to the bulb instead of heating up the factory wires.

    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=51912

    (from post #10 onwards)
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  11. #11
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    Forget the wall. It's easier and far more accurate to set your headlight direction up for best illumination on a deserted road in the middle of nowhere (no street lights) in the middle of a moonless night. I realigned mine between Waiuku and Pollock and although it's a litle high on high beam, it's spot on when dipped. Nothing you can do about that.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by awful-truth View Post
    Forget the wall. It's easier and far more accurate to set your headlight direction up for best illumination on a deserted road in the middle of nowhere (no street lights) in the middle of a moonless night. I realigned mine between Waiuku and Pollock and although it's a litle high on high beam, it's spot on when dipped. Nothing you can do about that.
    Yeah dip rates vary alot eh! I tried to set mine on an open road but it was too short when moving, just rode around with the bolts loose-ish and fiddled on the fly till it was mint then nipped them up. Not so easy on a faired bike tho eh, ya posers, get a naked bike! hahahahha
    I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroIndex View Post
    except the bastards will want money... and if I had money, I'd be spending it on a new helmet...

    maybe a bike that works first?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidMark View Post
    maybe a bike that works first?
    They might give a discount if you got one at the same time Mark?


    hehehehehehe
    I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pancakes View Post
    Not so easy on a faired bike tho eh, ya posers, get a naked bike! hahahahha
    Nearly got my hand stuck while adjusting it... thought I was going to be there all night...
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

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