Coolant. Would you like that straight sir or with water?

[babyblade250rr]

i generally use the premix coolant that you can buy from supercheap in my cage just pour straight in as the water antifreeze combination has already been done for you, I would assume that this would be fine for a two wheeler.

please correct me if im wrong

[terbang]

The additive not only acts as an antifreeze but it also is a corrosion inhibitor and it raises the boiling temp of the coolant. This allows a tighter cowled radiator and less overall coolant. For example, the WW2 spitfire used glyercol as the cooling medium through it's tightly cowled underwing radiators. Water would have boiled under such circumstances. I just follow the manufacturers reccomendations.

[Drum]

Hey Oakie, have you got a manual for the Eliminator?

I've got one in a series of .jpegs if you want a copy.

[Oakie]

Hey Oakie, have you got a manual for the Eliminator?

I've got one in a series of .jpegs if you want a copy.

Yeah I have thanks. I was surfing for Eliminator stuff one day and a guy who had an Eliminator had scanned (I guess) his manual and put it on his website. Took ages to download the 7.5mb on dial up but I've got it all tucked away safely in 26 .jpegs. Bloody handy too.

Thanks for the offer anyway.

[Pancakes]

Use distilled, boiled will concentrate contaminants whereas distilled is pure H2O. Pump etc (healthy) waters are sometimes tap water from "tasty" areas or spring water so aren't Ph neutral and have calcium and all kinds of suspended minerals. You can dilute your own water, Google it, a lab supply place and a pot on the stove should keep you and your mates in Battery and coolant water forever. Yeah, antifreeze lowers the freezing point and raises the boling point but with a temp gauge and modern thermostat you don't have to raise it too much to have a good margin of safety heat wise.

The water not the coolant carries the heat away so if your worried about overheating you don't need more coolant you need more coolant volume in total. A catch can to remove air bubbles in the system and sink some heat before the radiator + add capacity to slow down temperature change is added to race cars often. Whether it's feasable depends on your needs, weight and if you have somewhere on your bike to put one. If your machine isn't crap the standard system working normally should be fine.

[Max Preload]

Use distilled, boiled will concentrate contaminants whereas distilled is pure H2O.

You can dilute your own water

I presume you meant distill. Distillation is fairly inneffective as far as the production of demineralised water goes. You've been watching too many "Pure Magic water distiller" adverts. If you've ever drunk boiler feed water you'll know what I mean - distilled water is nothing like it.

The water not the coolant carries the heat away so if your worried about overheating you don't need more coolant you need more coolant volume in total.

Coolant has the same specific heat as water so it does just as much heat transfer as the same volume of water. For greater cooling capacity, you don't necessarily need more coolant - just a more efficient radiator. All extra coolant capacity does is reduce the rate of rise in temperature when the heat going into the coolant exceeds the radiators ability to disperse it.

[slopster]

You should be mixing 50/50 but it doesn't have to be exact. If your just topping it up I'd just chuck strait coolant in, 50mL of coolant wont change the mix much on the other 3L.

[Chrislost]

my owner manual says 60/40 water/ afreeze.

the antifreeze jsut raises the boiling temp by a few degrees and stops it freezing.
much like salt water freezes below 0 and boils above 100
adding ions or somshit...
the water is what "carries" the heat energy

[FROSTY:Me]

Chris --theres a bit more to it than that.Antifreeze acts as a lubricant for the seals in the water pump.it also reduces the corrosion in the aluminum parts

[Pancakes]

Coolant has the same specific heat as water so it does just as much heat transfer as the same volume of water. For greater cooling capacity, you don't necessarily need more coolant - just a more efficient radiator. All extra coolant capacity does is reduce the rate of rise in temperature when the heat going into the coolant exceeds the radiators ability to disperse it.

Sorry bro.

(Quote)
Air has a specific heat value of 1.01 (at a constant pressure), while the figure
for water is 4.18. In other words, for each increase in temp by one degree, the
same mass of water can absorb some four times more energy than air. Or, there
can be vastly less flow of water than air to get the same job done.
Incidentally, note that pure water is best - its specific heat value is actually
degraded by 6 per cent when 23 per cent anti-freeze is added! Other
commonly-available fluids don't even come close to water's specific heat value.

From http://autospeed.drive.com.au/A_107760/cms/article.html

[Sanx]

The specific heat capacity of a glycol/water solution is less than that of pure water. The glycol inhibits corrosion, lubricates seals and components in the colling system, lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point. You should not mix it with tap water, but de-ionised or distilled water is fine; it's not the trace minerals in tap water that causes a problem, it's the chlorine it's treated with.

The ability of a liquid (actually, of anything) to carry heat is measured by its specific heat capacity. This is usually expressed in Joules per kilgram per Kelvin; essentially how much energy it takes to heat a certain quantity of the substance by a certain amount. Of commonly-available liquids, water has the second-highest specific heat capacity. The only liquid with a higher specific heat capacity is anhydrous ammonia. which considering it's highly alkali, toxic, very corrosive and boils at a lower temperature than water (depending on the concentration of ammonia), hardly qualifies it as a good substance to use as coolant.

So, it's not the water in coolant that carries the heat away; it's the coolant solution itself. Pure glycol (ehtylene glycol, as opposed to propylene glycol) has about 60% of the specific heat capacity of pure water. So you can run with no water in the cooling system, but the efficiency of the system will be reduced. That's why coolant manufacturers recommend you use a 50/50 mix. At 50% dilution a water/glycol mix has 80% of the specific heat capacity of pure water; it's a good trade off between ability to transfer heat, corrosion protection and increase operational temperature range.

[Max Preload]

At 50% dilution a water/glycol mix has 80% of the specific heat capacity of pure water

88% @ 50/50 according to ASHRAE. I didn't realise we were being so accurate.

[Max Preload]

Sorry bro.

(Quote)
Air has a specific heat value of 1.01 (at a constant pressure), while the figure
for water is 4.18. In other words, for each increase in temp by one degree, the
same mass of water can absorb some four times more energy than air. Or, there
can be vastly less flow of water than air to get the same job done.
Incidentally, note that pure water is best - its specific heat value is actually
degraded by 6 per cent when 23 per cent anti-freeze is added! Other
commonly-available fluids don't even come close to water's specific heat value.

From http://autospeed.drive.com.au/A_107760/cms/article.html

But since we are being nitpicky, to single digit percentages it seems, there are other effects like the boundary layer which come into play with heat exchange.