Kawasaki gpz1000rx .

**Max Preload** · 16th July 2007, 16:29

Originally Posted by ladreborn

Well it played up after my higher speed run yesterday , and in the past it has come right by itself , sitting overnite or even sitting for 30minutes last week , -------------------this time it has not . running like a hairy mutt , on 3 , hmmmmm ., i,ll check out some of your thoughts .

So it's been sitting out in some considerable rain more recently?

**ladreborn** · 16th July 2007, 18:26

Being working on bike this noon , took off tank etc , looked at plugs , NUMBER 4 OILED/PEROLED UP all others fine , petrol in airbox , a wee puddle , prob 2mil deep by 50 mil , this was on right of bike , same as num 4 cyclinder , hmmmmmmmmmm , what does this tell u /us ? the plugs are NGK D8EA says in manual for USA and ITALY running . are these not hot enough ? i do not ride at 200kph , or rev past 6k has potential to 250 plus and rev to 9k , do i need hotter plugs ?

**ladreborn** · 16th July 2007, 18:27

No water found ,

**roadracingoldfart** · 16th July 2007, 21:00

Hmmmmm, Im thinking !!!!!

.

**ladreborn** · 18th July 2007, 18:56

Bike sorted , now need to see for how long , had some good advice from a guy in wellington , New plugs , cleaned airfilter , new fuel filter , cleaned carb choke slides , all free now , fingers crossed ,

thanx to all posters

**delusionz** · 18th July 2007, 19:47

Always go with the iridium plugs, they are far superior to standard plugs and even platinum plugs. Make sure to cross reference your standard plug to the appropriate iridium plug. If you ride for long periods of time, take the option of a colder rating if available. They do indeed produce a better spark, also last alot longer, stay cleaner, etc. It's all in the 2mm difference and the quality of the metal in the tip.

Use of iridium will result in easier cold starting, improved throttle response and may serve to remedy (but not cure) your misfiring cylinder.

**T.I.E** · 18th July 2007, 20:09

but bloody strange. keep us updated.

**ladreborn** · 19th July 2007, 18:56

That part of my problem , was the fact that even a bike mechanic down here was not replacing plug after finding it was oiled up , just a wipe with a rag , then sticking same plug back in , i the other nite put new plug in , my filter , air , is so clean , and a new fuel filter , so far so good , oh and cleaned carb chock slides , fingers crossed , i,ll thru some meths in tank to remove moisture ,

**Max Preload** · 19th July 2007, 20:43

Originally Posted by ladreborn

That part of my problem , was the fact that even a bike mechanic down here was not replacing plug after finding it was oiled up , just a wipe with a rag , then sticking same plug back in , i the other nite put new plug in , my filter , air , is so clean , and a new fuel filter , so far so good , oh and cleaned carb chock slides , fingers crossed , i,ll thru some meths in tank to remove moisture ,

That's not remedying the cause of the plug fouling in the first place.

Earlier this year I had a problem with oil down the plug tube which manifested itself first as a misfire once on the way back from the Battle of the Streets in Paeroa, and 2 weeks later suddenly became running on 3 cylinders at anything over 1/4 throttle. The rocker cover seal plug tube seal was leakng oil down into the plug tube and covering the suppressor cap - the tube was almost full. The plug was fouled but only because the spark was shorting to the plug tube through the oil. It took repeated applications of degreaser up the suppressor cap to clean all the oil out and get the cleaned plug firing again.

Basically, if the plug is fouling it's fouling for a reason. It might be the water down the plug hole. You never did answer whether the original suppressor caps are still fitted, or if they've been replaced with aftermarket ones without a seal on the top.

**ladreborn** · 20th July 2007, 20:09

It sure looks to me like they are originals , they have the rubber seals at top of tappet cover , what i did thou , just because i could , was wrap insulation tape around each , rubber , from top to sparkplug tip , to ensure theres no sparks /power leaking out to no were .

**Max Preload** · 22nd July 2007, 00:50

Don't take the name "insulation tape" as meaning it's good high voltage insulation. It works ok as a stop gap on low voltage exposed conductors but won't do squat in this scenario except make the leads and supressor caps all sticky for the next time you have to dry them out...

**ladreborn** · 22nd July 2007, 17:59

so far still ok , --------------- but heres a little something else !!!! . After i got it sorted few days ago , i ran across article on how to start bike lol , well , because i thought , the lesser choke i gave it in morning , with a little trottle i would minimize the chance of my old prob acuring , WELL -------------now i,m giving it half to 3 quarter choke , NO THROTTLE and it jumps in to, life , and as i said so far so good , let it idle for 1 minute , choke off , and away i go .------------------could this of been some of mty problem ????????????????

**JimO** · 28th July 2007, 19:36

could be ...my last bike (komnsukme 750) wouldnt start cold with any throttle but only full choke and once warmed up was fine, but if you used throttle it wouldnt start for ages and then once started would miss and fart about