87' srx 250

[ejc1]

I have an old SRX 250 that I left in a relative's garage for about 10 years.

About 5 years ago, they actually put fuel in it and took it for a ride around the farm.

Then they promptly let it sit with about two cups of fuel in the tank. So far I've:

- refinished the tank
- cleaned and rebuilt the carbs (all new gaskets)
- new air and new fuel filter
- new plug and new plug and wire).
- new diaphragm

The problem is it only runs and idles with the choke fully out. Even then, when the bike warms up, the idle gets lumpy and will eventually stall (if I keep the bike revving, its fine). With the choke in all the way, the bike refuses to idle. Over about 4500 rpm, the choke can go in and the bike is happy. I just can't really shit because that requires a closed throttle.

I also noticed a steady drip coming from the fuel petcock and have one on order as I type. Could this leak also be the source of my idle woes? Do I need to take the carb back apart and clean it all out again?

[imdying]

Do a search of these forums, the shitty SRX250 carb has been discussed on a few occasions iirc.

[FROSTY:Me]

You know the most likely answer really doncha??
You either HAVENT cleaned out the carb and jets propperly --Including where the fuel gets into the carb and/or The fuel tap filter inside the tank is full of crap.
a third possibility is that after your clean of the tank etc a whole bunch of rust n crap has come off of the tank liner and has regunked up the carby
The solution no matter what--
Remove carb/tank
Reclean both fuel tap filter and the entire gas tank/tap.
Fit an inline filter

Dunno what you did to clean out the gas tank but the most effective way is to throw about a half pound of fishtank pebbles into the tank and give the tank a really good long shake --the stones dislodge all the rust n crud inside the tank--then ya just tip em out of the tank

[ejc1]

Thanks for all the replies everyone! I wish people in the states weren't all so crazy about big bikes (my main bike is an 06' R1).

I did search a bit and that's why I posted (I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

a third possibility is that after your clean of the tank etc a whole bunch of rust n crap has come off of the tank liner and has regunked up the carby
The solution no matter what--
Remove carb/tank
Reclean both fuel tap filter and the entire gas tank/tap.
Fit an inline filter

What the dealership did was slid a disassembled chain and some kinda acid around inside the tank and then let it sit, drain, refilled it and then slid it around some more. It looks perfect inside. I blasted it out with compressed air and put in a clear inline filter. The filter is pristine and the gas coming through shows no sign of rust. I'm guessing the needles need cleaning (again) so yeah, on the 4th, I'm going to take a few hours and pull it all apart and get to cleaning again.

But the leak at the petcock won't be the problem? I was thinking any source of air coming into the carb could also force me to run with the choke open.

[FROSTY:Me]

Yea if the carb is sucking air its gonna naturally run lean.
But i'm still bettin theres shite in the carby still --the lil tiubes inside clog up

[ejc1]

Ok, I'm back at it again. I've since re-disassembled the carb and was EXTRA MEGA THOROUGH!

This time there's not a fleck of gunk anywhere.

I can get it to idle, but I'm using the idle stop screw to hold open the throttle a tiny bit. With the choke in, I can get it to idle at about 1K rpm (which is what my 06 r1 does when its warmed up).

So it's ok, no sputtering, no stalling, but it just doesn't sit well with me. With this idle stop screw, I can see where it was set before I set out tinkering. I can see I've screwed it in by about 1/8th of an inch.

The only thing left is a screw at the front of the carb (the side closest to the engine) that had a spring in it. Instead of turning the screw in and then noting how many turns it took, I may have just cranked it in (not over tightened mind you). This screw has some kinda pointed end (not sharp, but rounded like a knitting needle) that blocks a little hole in the outlet of the carb.

Please forgive me if I'm murdering these terms - I'm a noob when it comes to wrenching on engines/carbs.

My question is - could that be in too far (or possibly not far enough)? What's the name of this particular screw? In all the exploded diagrams, it looks like the "Pilot Screw Set (30x-14105-00)".

You can see the carb here:

http://demo.motorsportdealers.com/mo...0438187REY&z=3

[imdying]

Idle mixture, screw it out till the bike is idling at its highest point, then lower the idle, then repeat till you've got it right.

[ejc1]

Heh - is the idle mixture screw that you're talking about the same thing that I'm talking about?

Again - I'm sorry about my noobishness. I'm trying to learn a bit while making this bike safe for my wife.

I'm SO close to having this thing dialed in perfectly and appreciate all the help you guys have given me this far.

[imdying]

I'm only taking a stab... you'd be better off PMing Ixion. I'm sure he'd be happy to post what he knows if you ask him.

[ejc1]

Thanks - I sent along a private message.

I just want to get this stupid thing idling nicely so I can either trade it in or sell it privately.

I taught the wife already on this (running the way it is) and she could care less about getting a bike herself (she'd rather spend the money on a bigger house...).

[ejc1]

I'd like to take a chance to say thank you to all who posted here or private messaged me. I was able to get a copy of the service manual.

I also was able to get the bugger to idle - it's still lumpy and threatens to stall.

I used too much carb cleaner (stuff you pour into the tank) as well as found a split in the idle speed gasket.

It now idles well and I took the plate off my R1 and put it on the srx 250 and took it for a ride for about 40 miles. It did wonderfully.

I forget how much more comfortable the srx is compared to my R1. I also forgot how down on power that poor little thumper is.

Thanks again - you guys rule!