Motor oil or chain lube?

[HungusMaximist]

I have always been applying a aerosol based chain lube on my drive chain but yesterday while going through the Haynes manual it suggested that I apply 20W-50 Motor oil and in brackets next to it it reads "(not chain lube)".

What's the meaning of this motor oil on my chain?

Do I keep applying chain lube on my drive chain or do I start squirting motor oil now?

[vifferman]

Ignore the manual - engine oil is messy and designed for lubing engines, whereas chain lube is designed specifically for lubing chains. While the engine oil will work OK, it tends to fling off WAY too readily, which while it's good in that it carries spooge off with it, also means the chain's not protected.

Use whatever you like, Dude! You know you will anyway...

[McJim]

When I bought my bike it had a crack in the engine casing where a snapped chain had hit it.

This meant the engine leaked oil directly onto the front sprocket.

cheaper than a scottoiler.

[Coldrider]

Even the chain manufactures and MB handbooks recommend engine oil.

Any lube is better than none, but the reality is that it is the tensile strength of the links that determine wear rates, if the chain is kept clean.
O ring chains just happen to have a higher tensile strength which is what you are actually paying for, the o rings are a bonus.
Std chain tensile is about 6,500 lbs, O ring 7,500 lb and 630 about 8,500.
If you had a Std chain with a tensile strength of 7,500 ibs (you pay more)
if it was well cleaned & lubed should last as long as an O ring chain.
I use PJ1 (the blue stuff) incidentally, & apply it at the end of a ride, when the chain is warm, soaks it like a spounge and sets.

[HungusMaximist]

Even the chain manufactures and MB handbooks recommend engine oil.

Any lube is better than none, but the reality is that it is the tensile strength of the links that determine wear rates, if the chain is kept clean.
O ring chains just happen to have a higher tensile strength which is what you are actually paying for, the o rings are a bonus.
Std chain tensile is about 6,500 lbs, O ring 7,500 lb and 630 about 8,500.
If you had a Std chain with a tensile strength of 7,500 ibs (you pay more)
if it was well cleaned & lubed should last as long as an O ring chain.
I use PJ1 (the blue stuff) incidentally, & apply it at the end of a ride, when the chain is warm, soaks it like a spounge and sets.

Sweet thanks.

I take it when you clean your chain, you use Kerosene?

The normal rotate chain by hand and scrub method?

[vifferman]

Yeah, kero is best for cleaning chains, although occasionally I use WD40.

[cowpoos]

I used to use on my dirt bikes...chain bar lube...and sticky oil for lubing chain saw bars...it doesn't fling off like regular oil...I currently use chain wax...thats because..its what I have...lol

I personally wouldn't use straight engine oil...as it gets flung off and on to your tyre...thats not a good thing

[slopster]

I once tried to be cheap and fill a scottoiller with engine oil. Made a hua of a mess but I guess it worked ok.

[ManDownUnder]

I have only ever used chain lube, the RF is currently on 35,000 out of the chain and sprockets and is good for another 15,000 at a guess.

I wouldn't use Engine Oil on the chain for love nor money... It's called "Engine oil" for a reason... not "Chain Oil".

[Coldrider]

The chain manufactures don't promote any proper chain lubricants, i guess they don't want the chains to last too long, OEM chains are usually not that good as MB manufacturers cut the cost of new MB's.

Petrol and white spirits are carciogenic ( cancer link) so you should not get it on your hands, unburnt kero is not carciogenic, but defats your skin.
Kero is slightly harder to ignite.
There is some other degreasing agent called electrosol, very safe you can stub a ciggy out in it, & doesn't evaporate away quickly, but I have never seen it available in small quantities.

Safe cleaning & lubing=happy chains

[Pancakes]

Keep it clean with whatever you have, dirt and anything (water, oil, lube) = grinding paste, real good for opening up the close tolerances on any chain. You don't need tons of lube on the centre of the chain but don't clean it and forget to do a little drop between the links. Once the lube covers the moving parts any excess will just fling off, hold dirt and crud and cost more, lube after riding and let it set-up not before.

[HungusMaximist]

Petrol and white spirits are carciogenic ( cancer link) so you should not get it on your hands, unburnt kero is not carciogenic, but defats your skin.

Yea man, wear your rubber gloves while cleaning.

[delusionz]

I've never used chain oil myself, the motorcycle dealer I purchased my bike from uses chain oil and it's always flung onto the side of my rear tyre. I use blue mobil grease (texture is like spreadable margarine), is this ok?

[Pancakes]

If you like grease on your tyres it's fine

Use the right shit, you'd be lucky to get through two $15 cans a year and save that in chains, sprockets and loss of power. Clean is good and with lube, a little bit often is the trick.

[babyblade250rr]

i use motul aerosol lube and that stuff is great buy mine from motomail it's around $22 a can and last approx six months i use it every 500-1000k's and things seem to be moving freely