Suzuki RF900R alternator coupling repair

[lance04]

Currently tackling this task at the moment.......will let you know how it goes!

[lance04]

Job went well. Back together again. Couldn't get torque settings for clutch cover tho. Suzuki agent said to just do them up tight but not too tight ��..... Does anybody know where to find the right setting?

[fastfitter]

What-ho chaps Back again after seven years as a mate on the (UK based) RF Owners Club forum http://www.rfownersclub.co.uk/ posted a link to this thread.

The old gal is still going strong with 74000 miles up. Corbin seat, flip screen and 1200 Bandit top yoke and straight bars added for comfort. Pink wire pulled and ignition advancer fitted. I've gone up 1 tooth on the front sprocket and it makes the bike a big, lazy mile eater. Carb internals do wear out but a complete strip, clean and rebuild taking particular care over the recommended settings has the old gal pulling cleanly and smoothly from a closed throttle to Jeez!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps139bf3cf.jpg

I had my first alternator coupling fail at around 35,000 miles. I think the reason it lasted so long is I don't do any night-time riding so there's never any serious load on the alternator. During a complete strip-down 15,000 miles later (for a frame re-spray) the replacement coupling was looking a bit dodgy so I had a think about alternative cures.

I was lucky enough to have a box of bits from an earlier engine so was able to compare the starter clutch/alternator drive shaft assemblies and discovered that they are a straight swap. No surprise really as the crankcases didn't change throughout the model run. So I was able to fit the earlier 'solid' type drive shaft assembly. It's a straight-forward cover off, lift out, drop in, cover back on job

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...riveshaft2.jpg

Note though that you must fit an earlier alternator as well - the splines and the length of the shaft mean they are not inter-changable

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psecd71c2a.jpg

It seems from talking around with others who've done the same that the later alternators have a Black part number label while the earlier ones have a Green label as in the pic. So if you can hunt round the breakers or EBay for an early type shaft assembly and alternator it's a nice little job for a wet Saturday.

The 600 and 900 parts are identical giving more scope for finding them. Again, they must be changed as a 'set', you can't mix and match early and later parts.

Drive shaft cover doesn't need over-tightening, wrist tight and a bit is enough. I'd say around 8 lb/ft (11 Nm) is plenty.

Hope this helps.

[Sgshane1]

Recently this is happened to me as well. I am one of those do-it-yourself kind of guys. Needless to say I did try various types of adhesives including J-B Weld for steel, liquid polyurethane hardening adhesive, and I have even made my own bushing out of solid rubber using my at home made. Piece of advice for anyone trying to do this just don't. It doesn't work spend the 40 bucks save your headaches and buy the part.. and on top of having an oem part, as long as you keep your receipt it's back with a lifetime warranty so if and when it goes bad again which we all know and have seen before that it will you get it replaced for free right from the dealership. Well that's my advice