FZR disc and rotor assembly

[stunz]

Hi everyone,
I own and ride a Yamaha FZR 250 50kms into the city everyday and on my latest warrant check it has come to pass that *apparently* I have overheated my front disc one too many times (that durned hill!) and now need to acquire a new assembly because of its warped nature. (Feels fine to me, but alas, I can't really argue with the boys that REALLY know what they're talking about)

I can source a factory set-up for about $700 or an aftermarket custom set-up for $300. The only problem with that option is the 3 weeks wait to get it done.

Now I know its not really such a good idea to go looking around for second hand brake parts :confused2 but am also not looking forward to sitting on the train for three weeks.
So, if anyone knows of a decent "wreck" or front rotor assembly that I can get my paws on, my "hole-on-two-wheels-I-pour-money-into-yamaha" and I would be so happy.

Of course, the price should be right, and the part in reasonably good condition. (I just recently shelled out my "bike allowance" on some new rubber, plugs and battery, and I may end up parking it up for a while if no luck here )

Anyway, thanks for reading this.
Stu

[geoffm]

Hi everyone,
I own and ride a Yamaha FZR 250 50kms into the city everyday and on my latest warrant check it has come to pass that *apparently* I have overheated my front disc one too many times (that durned hill!) and now need to acquire a new assembly because of its warped nature. (Feels fine to me, but alas, I can't really argue with the boys that REALLY know what they're talking about)

Who told you it was overheated? If it was the WOF inspector, they would be the only one in the country who knows about bikes. Our local ones are total prats, and a source of never ending hassle. Worst I have come across was Waitakere testing station - never go there. Haven't a clue and will make problems if they can't find any
Is it discoloured? Under thickness limit? Runout (and how much)? Do the brakes pulse? Pads ok?
I bet if you clean it up and take it back it will be fine...
Have a look for FZR400 disks - I think they may be the same. Front disks are always hard to find.
Geoff

[Magua]

"hole-on-two-wheels-I-pour-money-into-yamaha"

I know how you feel. Since I bought mine the problems seem to mount and the price just keeps rising.

[White trash]

Who told you it was overheated? If it was the WOF inspector, they would be the only one in the country who knows about bikes. Our local ones are total prats, and a source of never ending hassle. Worst I have come across was Waitakere testing station - never go there. Haven't a clue and will make problems if they can't find any
Is it discoloured? Under thickness limit? Runout (and how much)? Do the brakes pulse? Pads ok?
I bet if you clean it up and take it back it will be fine...
Have a look for FZR400 disks - I think they may be the same. Front disks are always hard to find.
Geoff

Possibly not overheated but below minimum thickness. Now they have to be measured during a WOF inspection, alot of people are seeking new discs.

[stunz]

Thanks Geoff,
I've been informed it is pulse (bent disc) and for sure, it does get a little jittery on the hard squeeze, but it must be real bad cos the testing dude wouldn't even take it out for a spin. Too dangerous.
The pads are fine, no doscolouration, and thickness is ok. A mate has suggested machining the disc as there is plenty of thickness left, but am not totally sold on this idea. If it goes wrong then I have no bike at all.
Thanks for the tip about the 400 discs. Will keep my eyes peeled.

[kerryg]

Thanks Geoff,
I've been informed it is pulse (bent disc) and for sure, it does get a little jittery on the hard squeeze, but it must be real bad cos the testing dude wouldn't even take it out for a spin. Too dangerous.
The pads are fine, no doscolouration, and thickness is ok. A mate has suggested machining the disc as there is plenty of thickness left, but am not totally sold on this idea. If it goes wrong then I have no bike at all.
Thanks for the tip about the 400 discs. Will keep my eyes peeled.

Smythe + Yeates in Cambridge can straighten warped rotors in most cases (I believe F1 Engineering in Hamilton can do the same). Machining bike rotors is not straightforward but I guess you might find someone to do it if you hunt around (the guys who do car rotors are usually not interested in doing bike rotors because the metallurgy is different) but then you may end up with an issue with thickness. The deal with S+Y is you courier it to them and if they can't properly fix it they won't. They do good work, as other members of KB can testify I'm sure

[F5 Dave]

Tis the bugbear of Yams that vintage I’m afraid. Just bought some for my YZF. 2nd pair, have some PFMs on it now, but they succumbed, so now it’s to try Brembos (same as Ducs on some Yams).
& in the same week my RF. Lets spend some money.

I had the RF ones skimmed & it seemed to work. When I bought the bike it had serious warp & the bike juddered when braking from speed. The lass who owned it hadn’t noticed. The VTNZ station had just given it a WOF, but I tell you it was serious dangerous! Knackered the head bearings as a result.

I took it home & wouldn’t ride it until fixed. Sadly 4000k later it returns so I’ve just ordered some EBCs from Cyclebrakes in US. $380US a pair. Freight will run a bunch more though.

[riffer]

Steering heads and rotors.

Bloody Yamaha's.

Have the same problem.

And it always seems to get worse come warrant time too...


Some nice Brembo's on trademe... 320mm. But I think the FZR250's are 290mm aren't they?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...n-17049522.htm

[F5 Dave]

Think I bought the first set of those.

Yeah its a drag, but Hondas of the 80s 90s it was Camchain tensioners, Suzukis it was rust in the tank clogging the carbs & dogey electrics. etc etc

[stunz]

The VTNZ station had just given it a WOF, but I tell you it was serious dangerous! Knackered the head bearings as a result.

You know, the funny thing is, I had the headstock bearings replaced about a month ago, and they didn't tell me then that my brakes were knackered.
Go figure...

[stunz]

Steering heads and rotors.

Bloody Yamaha's.

Have the same problem.

And it always seems to get worse come warrant time too...

Ain't that the truth. The little lady has just informed me that I seriously need to look at getting something a little less expensive to keep on the road every six months like a gn250...
(for the last 18 months, a new set of tyres, f&B each time it went in for a warrant. Did they just see me coming or do sports tyres only last 5000 kays in real life?...)

[F5 Dave]

Well sometimes when a mechanic is doing a test ride they are more likely to look at what they have just done. But yeah if it shudders then they should have picked it up. When rolling towards the lights with the brakes on lightly & it grips, lets go, grips, lets go that is another symptom.

Vehicles cost money. 5000k out of a tire on a 250 seems pretty quick. Try another brand of tyre & check them for low pressure. Many people run them too low. Measure them.

If you bought a new bike it would not require so much maintenance, but you would be getting mondo devaluation come sell time. Try that on her. Also tell her that you have read (well you're readiing it here, don't mention I just made it up) that modern city dwelling male's sperm count drops if they aren't involved in sporty or outdoor activity so this is cheaper than IVF at a later date.

[Motu]

We often get those remarks (cars) ''how come it needs new brakes,I just got a WoF last week''...''how come it needs new brake hoses,it was just seviced last week''

A WoF is a non intrusive visual inpection,a service is in depth maintanence,but not a safety or compliance test - different aspects of the vehicle are looked at...confusing to the owner I know,but it's nice to have someone to blame eh?

[geoffm]

Thanks Geoff,
I've been informed it is pulse (bent disc) and for sure, it does get a little jittery on the hard squeeze, but it must be real bad cos the testing dude wouldn't even take it out for a spin. Too dangerous.
The pads are fine, no doscolouration, and thickness is ok. A mate has suggested machining the disc as there is plenty of thickness left, but am not totally sold on this idea. If it goes wrong then I have no bike at all.
Thanks for the tip about the 400 discs. Will keep my eyes peeled.

Take your disks along to the wreckers and have a rummage through the piles - Yamaha are famous parts-bin engineers and will often use the parts on a variety of models.
Watch for the amount of offset if they have dished centres.
You may be able to get them straigntened and/or machined. Bike disks are as hard as f**k to turn and do a good job. Best bet is grinding - if they are flat this is easy. if not, you will have to disassemble the bobbins and take the disk outer into a machine shop with a surface grinder. You can buy new bobbins to refix the outer onto the centre. Second hand disks might be cheaper. talk to your localk Yam man, and cross reference the part numbers to other models (they can do this on the computer) so you know what to look for. Also have a look at wreckers in Australia possibly.
Geoff

[F5 Dave]

I'd like to know where you can buy new bobbins. The stock ones are rivets & need to be ground off. My PFM rotor kits came with new bobbins, but to buy spares was a $$$ joke.