Removing blueing off chrome header pipes.

[Norty Boy]

I understand that there is a way to get rid of the blue colour that can deveop on chromed header pipes. (This is usually caused by incorrect ignition timing, but after adjusting the timing the blue stays there.) The question is, how do I get rid of it? Any special chemicals or techniques out there? Love to hear from you!

[Paul in NZ]

It was a feature of the bikes when they were new and I'd guess you are unlikely to ever get rid of it. Back in the day you could fit giant heat sink finned clamps, springs etc to dump the heat.

You would have to retard the ignition to a dangerous degree to avoid it I'd think? I've never seen a bike that was used as the maker intended that didn't do it, american, jap, italian or british unless it used super thick pipes or more comonly double walled headers....

[NighthawkNZ:Me]

I understand that there is a way to get rid of the blue colour that can deveop on chromed header pipes. (This is usually caused by incorrect ignition timing, but after adjusting the timing the blue stays there.) The question is, how do I get rid of it? Any special chemicals or techniques out there? Love to hear from you!

Re-chroming...

[riffer]

But ...why would you want to?

I think it looks great.

[Ocean1]

Often comes off with metal polish but should at least be removable with a 3M scouring pad. It will probably come back though.

[Paul in NZ]

Re-chroming...

Often it comes back worse - pipes get thinner. There are products that claim to remove it but i would not use em often

[NighthawkNZ:Me]

Often it comes back worse - pipes get thinner. There are products that claim to remove it but i would not use em often

no point it trying to remove at at all as you state it will be back...

[Conquiztador]

Yes, most bikes will have blue header pipes. But if it is in excess then you might have a problem:
- Timing (too late)
- Burnt exhaust valves (fuel burning in headers)
- Too rich mixture (again fuel in headers) repair/adjust carbies.
- Valve timing (opens too early)
- Valve adjustment (opens too early)
- 91 octane petrol will make a high compression engine "ping" as it ignites from the heat in the cylinder and the compression. But 98 octane can in a low compression engine burn too slow ending up in headers.
- Poor spark. (Fuel in headers)

If all that is OK and you hate the blue colouring then there is stuff you can buy and "paint" on the headers to cut down on them becoming blue.

Good Luck.

[Norty Boy]

Thanks for all your thoughts - I believe that if all the timing, carburettion etc is correct, as it is now, blueing won't happen until it all goes out of sync again. When the pipes were new, the chrome stayed bright and blue-free untill I got a timing problem. I will try the scotch-brite approach and let you know. Any other ideas appreciated though! Cheers!

[Max Preload]

Pickling acid is used to remove blueing from welded stainless but I'm not sure what it would do to chrome - might dull it.

[laRIKin]

might dull it.

It would trust me.

Not sure if it would remove the blueing, should.
I will have to try as I use it at work.

[Teflon]

If you can take the headers off, you could try a finishing mop (cotton, soft rope mop). A little carborax should remove the colour.

I've never worked with chrome, so using a mop might fuck it.

[laRIKin]

If you can take the headers off, you could try a finishing mop (cotton, soft rope mop). A little carborax should remove the colour.

I've never worked with chrome, so using a mop might fuck it.

Chrome in very thin (micron's), I think that you would polish right though it very quickly.

[Teflon]

Chrome in very thin (micron's), I think that you would polish right though it very quickly.

If you use the right mop you shouldn't have a problem. Try a high-finish polish compound instead of the carborax.

I'll give it ago one day, but you could be right thou.

[scumdog]

It was a feature of the bikes when they were new and I'd guess you are unlikely to ever get rid of it. Back in the day you could fit giant heat sink finned clamps, springs etc to dump the heat.

You would have to retard the ignition to a dangerous degree to avoid it I'd think? I've never seen a bike that was used as the maker intended that didn't do it, american, jap, italian or british unless it used super thick pipes or more comonly double walled headers....

Meh, RETARDING the ignition makes your exhaust real hot, trust me on this.

Old hot-rod trick (which I can't vouch for) was to paint inside the pipe with VHT exhaust paint, also a few turns of really thick copper-wire from the flange downwards along the pipe for an inch or so helps (also masks any blueing too I guess!).