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Thread: Tail Tidy - ZX11

  1. #1
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    21st September 2006 - 21:35
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    Blah Tail Tidy - ZX11

    Well I have almost finished my tail tidy mod on the ZX11 - Actually very easy on this bike, the mud guard was simply bolted on! So removed that and fixed itunderneath and attached the number plate with a ally back stop to stop it hitting the wheel.


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    Last edited by Disco Dan; 29th October 2007 at 10:48.
    "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary - that's what gets you."
    Jeremy Clarkson.

    Kawasaki 200mph Club

  2. #2
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    21st September 2006 - 21:35
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    ...my first attempt ended in me having to back track a couple of k's down the road to find my number plate when it hit the real wheel and ripped off....
    "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary - that's what gets you."
    Jeremy Clarkson.

    Kawasaki 200mph Club

  3. #3
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    14th January 2005 - 21:26
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    If you were to make a remotely activated device to flip the plate up - simply to test your electromechanical skills of course - probably the easiest way I can see from your pix is to spring the plate such that it wants to go upwards i.e. "hidden", and use a small solenoid (like http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?...Max=&SUBCATID=) to pull a pin out that allows it to flip up.

    This way you only require a momentary push of a button to flip it rather than having to hold a button or fit a switch that keeps it flipped, so you could wire the flip button functionality into say the highbeam flash switch. Just remember to flash people using the actual HI/LO beam switch not the PASS button!

    However, if you did it so that the solenoid pulled the plate up and held it there, you would have the advantage that you don't need to get off and refit a pin once the mechanism has been tripped, but then of course the solenoid would be working the whole time the plate was either flipped or on the normal position.

    Of course, you can't REALLY do this anyway - it's norty. Would make warrant time interesting....although spending 10 mins to refit the original once every 6 months wouldn't be so bad would it?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by allun View Post
    If you were to make a remotely activated device to flip the plate up - simply to test your electromechanical skills of course - probably the easiest way I can see from your pix is to spring the plate such that it wants to go upwards i.e. "hidden", and use a small solenoid (like http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?...Max=&SUBCATID=) to pull a pin out that allows it to flip up.

    This way you only require a momentary push of a button to flip it rather than having to hold a button or fit a switch that keeps it flipped, so you could wire the flip button functionality into say the highbeam flash switch. Just remember to flash people using the actual HI/LO beam switch not the PASS button!

    However, if you did it so that the solenoid pulled the plate up and held it there, you would have the advantage that you don't need to get off and refit a pin once the mechanism has been tripped, but then of course the solenoid would be working the whole time the plate was either flipped or on the normal position.

    Of course, you can't REALLY do this anyway - it's norty. Would make warrant time interesting....although spending 10 mins to refit the original once every 6 months wouldn't be so bad would it?
    That sounds pretty good actually, would save time come warrent time. But theres enough "westy" wof shops round here that wouldnt care if it was on anyway

    Purely for "aerodynamics" of course
    "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary - that's what gets you."
    Jeremy Clarkson.

    Kawasaki 200mph Club

  5. #5
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    22nd November 2005 - 22:19
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    well, I'm planing on doing something like this one day. I got a bit of electronics background and there are these little chips called Picaxe, that are programable. I'll use a solenoid or a servo as an actuator, and also include some relays in the rear lighting (so that at night when the plate is up, there is no light coming from the back (ie brake and tail lights, and still be able to have a full headlight). So I think i got enough knowledge, I got the means to design and make myself a circuit board and would be an awsome project lol

  6. #6
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    Blah

    [FONT="Palatino Linotype"]After a little "experimenting" and a trip to Dick Smiths later... it is almost finished!!

    All that is left to do is to wire up the switch somewhere handy....
    "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary - that's what gets you."
    Jeremy Clarkson.

    Kawasaki 200mph Club

  7. #7
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    Don't the impound your vehicle if they find something like this on it... something to do with keeping the evidence or some shite. With a bit of luck the judge won't want to seize and sell it though Unless of course the zzr can outrun a motorola?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Don't the impound your vehicle if they find something like this on it... something to do with keeping the evidence or some shite. With a bit of luck the judge won't want to seize and sell it though Unless of course the zzr can outrun a motorola?
    Probably. But they would have to stop me.
    "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary - that's what gets you."
    Jeremy Clarkson.

    Kawasaki 200mph Club

  9. #9
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    They'll just wait till you're coming, then pull out of a side road. I guess it won't matter if they impound a wreck, although I hear a broken back is a prick of a thing. That's what I'd do if I was a policeman stopping a bike doing a few hundred km/hr, ymmv.

  10. #10
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    Choke cable would be the easiest, any repco should be able to hook you up with a universal kit for a few bucks. I think DSE had some solenoids at one stage, looks like they had sufficient torque to direct connect it near the pivot point I'd go for a flashing light of some sort, don't want to forget about it!

    /edit: Come to think of it, I'd be surprised if your door lock actuator didn't have enough torque to operate near the pivot point (to compensate for the short throw).

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