Are you sure you're not actually trying to disassemble the caliper's split housing?
Post a photo.
Are you sure you're not actually trying to disassemble the caliper's split housing?
Post a photo.
If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!
Sometimes the bloody thing won't move no matter what you do.
It appears to me that Suzuki brakes appear to be made of differing metals causing that stupid bolt to weld itself to the caliper.
I've ruined two trying to get them out with mole grips after every other trick failed. And they cost $35 each to replace
From now on, I'm going to grease the bolt and hold it in place with a circlip on the end instead of just doing it up tight.
Sometimes it pays to have someone more experienced help. See attached pic.
And I to my motorcycle parked like the soul of the junkyard. Restored, a bicycle fleshed with power, and tore off. Up Highway 106 continually drunk on the wind in my mouth. Wringing the handlebar for speed, wild to be wreckage forever.
- James Dickey, Cherrylog Road.
If someone's used loctite on it sticking the pointy head of a soldering iron in the socket for a minute or so will soften the loctite then just use the allen key
Has it ever bothered you that Therapist is The Rapist if you break the word in two? It bothers me, especially when they suggest hypnosis.
Allen key and hammer.
Hit the allen eky on the end (like it was a nail and you're tyrying to nail it in) a few times... hard enough. This helps break up and corrosion or loctitie/whatever holding it in.
Then allen key into the head and apply "a little too much" force. I'm not saying stick a pipe on the allen key and go for it - but high tensile bolts will handle more oomph than normal bolts, and a high tensile bolt it used there for a reason. So they can do the fucker up tight to make sure your breaks don't fall off.
Of course checking for (and removing) split pins or other physical restraints from the other end of the allen screw is important too...
$2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details
ok - after a few taps and sticking one of the hollow pipes from the tool kit over it, it eventually cracked. Only to find i had miss-read the markers, the brakes still have some meet on them.
BUT. I was taking them off because at low speed and braking lightly they were making a screech/wrench noise. When i took the cover off to check how much meat they had on them i found that one of them was moving(when the brakes are NOT applied). And just last night i found that the others slightly move aswell, but the first one significantly more then the others. The movement is perhaps upto 1 mil horizontal, and maybe 3-5 mils vertical(pivoting on the allen bolt running through the top)
Is this normal? Is it anything to worry about?
There aren't any shims - should there be?
By horizontal, you mean movement in the direction of the axle centerline - right and left when sitting on the bike? Probably a bit excessive in terms of retraction of the caliper pistons.
Not sure what you mean by vertical - sure you don't mean radial ie. outwards from the axle radially?
Like I said, post a few good pictures. They're worth a thousand words, as the saying goes.
If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!
Road the bike into work today as someone at work used to ride and he said he'd comment on the brake pads - he seams to think the movement is fine, and is not as much as i had made out to be.
Also on the way to work there was no screeching/wrenching sound - tho its only a short ride, so will take a longer trip home and see how it goes.
So taking the pad out and putting it back in must have done something?? :s
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