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Thread: head torque advice

  1. #1
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    head torque advice

    well im about to put my bike back together [fz750] and am after some advice.
    the head is in 2 pieces [the head and then the cam case] the manual gives the head torques ok but should i have to retorque it after its been hot or not have to? the manual doesnt say to but iduno.
    any opinions?
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  2. #2
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    Depends on the gasket. If your using a modern Monotorque type one you can check it if you like but should be fine. I think these may have been made cos no-one wants to take there vehicle back to a shop two days after they picked it up or something? That and the extra work to get back in there etc. The final thickness and final torque should be the same cos it affects the engine once the temperature is up to normal and flex is involved etc but the gasket material itself will determine just how it squishes over time.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pancakes View Post
    Depends on the gasket. If your using a modern Monotorque type one you can check it if you like but should be fine. I think these may have been made cos no-one wants to take there vehicle back to a shop two days after they picked it up or something? That and the extra work to get back in there etc. The final thickness and final torque should be the same cos it affects the engine once the temperature is up to normal and flex is involved etc but the gasket material itself will determine just how it squishes over time.
    the new gasket is a genuine yamaha gasket but dosent say anything about being a monoturque.
    winding up stucky since ages ago

  4. #4
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    You need to find the torque setting, someone here will know or Google/call some shops? And failing getting your hands on any info other than that torque it up in stages, ie, 50% of total, 80% than 100%. Too much pressure is as bad as too little so don't just go crazy. The way the bolts and block/head expand under heat and load is a sensitive thing. You might get lucky but the info will be out there. For your bike it's gonna be maybe 27-28Nm but you need to find the number. There is a gasket place in Rosebank Rd area that might be helpful?

    There should be a pattern to torque it up in. Talk to a mechanic to get an idea for your bike.
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  5. #5
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    haynes manual give a torque of 37Nm (27 ft-lbs) for 87 and 88 engines, 41 Nm (30ft-lbs) for 89 on. They note that the threads should be lubricated with engine oil. Tightening sequence is shown in the sketch .
    There's nothing in the manual about retorquing later, and I'm sure as hell that never happens with a new bike.
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    Last edited by pete376403; 8th November 2007 at 19:09. Reason: spelling
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  6. #6
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    Hahaha I meant ft/lb too! Even converted it from kg/m to ft/lb so it was in more common langauge. Shoulda checked my post a. Not a bad guess.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    haynes manual give a torque of 37Nm (27 ft-lbs) for 87 and 88 engines, 41 Nm (30ft-lbs) for 89 on. They note that the threads should be lubricated with engine oil. Tightening sequence is shown in the sketch .
    There's nothing in the manual about retorquing later, and I'm sure as hell that never happens with a new bike.
    27ft-lb is wot the manual says and have the sequence thanks[have the clymer manual]
    hows the top end of your motor looking pete?
    winding up stucky since ages ago

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