Sourcing a chain for a 1990 Suzuki GSX250F (chch)

[KingJackaL]

Recently my bike has been making a few weird noises ('clappering'?), and to cut to the finish - it's my chain. The tension is fine, but the chain itself isn't. It has some very sticky links (don't bend easily), and I measured 21 pins (20 pitches) at about 320mm - the manual states the service limit to be 319.4mm (so it's at the stretch limit too).

So, new chain time - and I'll buy some oil while I'm at it.

Now, I can get some more savvy members here to give me some advice before actually doing the job, but I'm unsure as to exactly what to get - and where.

The manual says I need:
- kerosene for washing the chain (easy to find)
- "heavy-weight motor oil" for oiling afterward
- DID520v7 or RK520SMO drive chain

So where would people recommend I source these? I know the Suzuki shop here in ChCh is likely to be pricey, so any reccomendations would be appreciated. Also, while I realise that the above part numbers aren't law - it's just a 250 that I don't race and am quite happy to follow manufacturer reccomendations on - so something at least very-similar would probably be best.

Looking on Trademe I see auctions for 'RK 520' chains, just not the SMO one - are these likely to be close enough?

How much (roughly ) would I expect to pay for a chain?

Thanks for any advice

[xwhatsit]

The important number in those chain codes is `520'. This is the chain size. Once you know that number, you can buy any 520 chain you like. If you're commuting and using normal chain lube, the hot ticket seems to be an O-ring or (if you're flush) an X-ring chain.

So you just need to go to a bike shop and ask for an O-ring 520 pitch chain. They normally come in something like 140 links, which will almost certainly be too long. Count the number of links on your existing chain and get them to cut it to that size and give you a joining link, or, get them to fit it and they'll likely rivet it together for you (more secure, but then you can't take it off for heavy-duty cleaning).

Heavy weight oil, I wouldn't worry. Get some chain wax (in an aerosol can). Doesn't fly off like oil. WD40 is great but it flings off quickly too. I clean the chain with kerosene or WD40 (which is mostly kerosene anyway) and a toothbrush.

[FROSTY:Me]

save yaself a shit loada drama--go to the tyre shop over the road from suzuki.
They'll fit the chain for you and advise if you need a new rear sprocket

[Kickaha]

save yaself a shit loada drama--go to the tyre shop over the road from suzuki.

Pit Lane in Manchester st

[FROSTY:Me]

Pit Lane in Manchester st

thank you sir

[Pedrostt500]

I recomend that you replace the sprockets with the chain as they wear in togeather, not changing the sprockets will shorten the life of the new chain, if you dont wish to change the sprokets then I suggest buy a cheap chain so you are not throwing money away, even though the sprockets may not look worn they will be.

[KingJackaL]

I recomend that you replace the sprockets with the chain as they wear in togeather, not changing the sprockets will shorten the life of the new chain, if you dont wish to change the sprokets then I suggest buy a cheap chain so you are not throwing money away, even though the sprockets may not look worn they will be.

I know the sprockets will wear, but 1:1? On my other bikes (the non-motorized variety ) I replace cassettes as they wear and it normally winds up meaning I get 2-3 chains per cassette change. I would have thought it would be similar for a motorbike?

Hmm, maybe should go in to the shop... I know the one you're meaning . Might try Pit Lane as soon as I'm good for riding there (waiting for some stitches to heal up atm, heh...).

[k14]

Yes it is beneficial to replace chain and sprockets in one go. Usually on a motorbike when a chain is stuffed the sprockets are stuffed too.

The make and model of chain is of no consequence, the size is the important thing (520). So long as you get that then it will be fine. There are hundreds of different type of chain models to choose from but the two main ones you should consider are o-ring and standard. The advantage an o-ring chain has over a standard one are that there are rubber o-rings sealing in the lubricant on each join so as to increase the life of the chain. If you were meticulus and washed the standard chain once a month (roughly) you can get similar life from the standard chain for a fraction of the cost of an o-ring.

Most people now days never use oil for their chains, it is easiest done with an aerosol can of chain wax from the bike shop. A $20 can should last you for a few years of lubricating, unless you get a bit keen!

For the extra price of sprockets (shouldn't be more than $100) it is worth doing them at the same time. It does take a little more effort to do yourself but is worth it for peace of mind.

[KingJackaL]

Well, right you all are. I didn't realise the front sprocket was just that - I'm so used to push bikes I actually thought there'd be a cassette there :P. So yeah, the sprockets don't cost as much as I was worried, I will be getting my ordered new sprockets and chain either tommorow or Monday from Pit Lane.

And yes, they reccomended the chain wax - so I grabbed a can of that today.

Thanks all for the advice

[k14]

If you do it yourself remember to undo the bolt holding the front sprocket on before you take the chain off. It is usually advised to use the rear brake to hold the bike from rolling forward and then undo the bolt with a socket. Helps if you have a mate who can jump on the rear brake lever while you get the socket. Sometimes they can be a bit of a pain. Apart from that, so long as the chain is cut to the right lenght (and not 1 too short, don't ask me about it) you will be sweet as

[xwhatsit]

Apart from that, so long as the chain is cut to the right lenght (and not 1 too short, don't ask me about it) you will be sweet as

If one, having bought a standard (non-O-ring) chain cheap off Tardme (for example), wished to cut it to an appropriate length -- hacksaw?

[k14]

Nah only thing I have used is angle grinder. Pretty sure hacksaw wouldn't work??? You need to grind the rivet down a fraction to get the link free.

[Pedrostt500]

Chain breaker is a good tool to have for breaking stndard chains to length.

[lostinflyz]

Go to Don at pitlane. hes the man. No bullshit with him and hes usually the best price. he will sort out chains easy.

A brave man would attack a chain with a hacksaw. more a pain in the arse than its worth. Ive found a bench grider easiest (for the brave)but angle griders work primo

[xwhatsit]

Haha good-o then. Next time I'll borrow my Uncle's bench grinder.