Kill Switch Question

[TonyB]

Wow, a bike thread!
Firstly, I haven't acutally seen anyone TEST a tether switch at scrutineering...take that however you want it. Also, more than once I have seen people have problems with their bike on race day due to the new tether switch playing up- the actual switch they use in these things is a tiny piece of crap you can buy for $1.50. So I always wire mine up so that the tether switch can be bypassed simply by flicking the kill switch back to ON. I race with the kill switch set to OFF so that the tether switch will work as intended if I crash.

Apparently, most two stroke kill switches work by shorting the ignition system out- creating a connection. Most four stroke kill switches work by breaking the connection- stopping the flow of current.

With my Monster, I just got an Ohmeter and tested whether current flowed through the kill switch when it was switched off, which it didn't. Then I bought an appropriate tether switch- ie one where the current flowed though it when the cap was on, but didn't when it popped off. Luckily the kill switch on the bike has a couple of blobs of solder on the side and enough room around it to get some extra wires in, so I soldered one wire of the tether switch to each blob of solder on the kill switch. Job done. The tether switch works exactly as it should, and can be by passed simply by flicking the kill switch back to ON.

[GaZBur]

Wow, a bike thread!
.... more than once I have seen people have problems with their bike on race day due to the new tether switch playing up- ...So I always wire mine up so that the tether switch can be bypassed simply by flicking the kill switch back to ON. I race with the kill switch set to OFF so that the tether switch will work as intended if I crash....

That was a good idea. Instead of adding another link that can break in the ignition I wired it as you suggested. It works as meant - and if either switch actually fails I can still have spark instead of a dead bike.
Thanks everybody for the help!!!

[GaZBur]

That was a good idea. Instead of adding another link that can break in the ignition I wired it as you suggested. It works as meant - and if either switch actually fails I can still have spark instead of a dead bike.
Thanks everybody for the help!!!

Bugger Bugger Bugger!!!
Just found this in the rules. Back to the soldering iron!!!!

10-13-4 STREET CIRCUITS–ALL CLASSES
All machines to be fitted with an operational tether kill switch. The tether kill switch must not be fitted in such a way that it can be overridden and must be securely attached to the rider. This switch is to be additional to the regular handlebar mounted kill switch.
A number of machines, mainly historic and classic classes, are technically difficult to modify to accept any type of kill-switch, tether or otherwise. These machines will be exempt from this rule on both the following conditions being met:
a. The machine must have a self contained magneto ignition, and
b. The engine must stop when the throttle is closed. It must not idle.