Engine running in.

[nallac]

Yep don't flog the livin daylights out of it .....Yet

Keep the revs up

Let it cool down to stone cold couple of times...

Change oil before say 100km and maybe 1000km.

If it pinks (What sort of heads) rotate backing plate 2mm to 3mm.

Best to use factory 1200 heads solves the problem.

If this don't work txt me for my acct details, we can fix it, do you have the money. Type of deal

been keeping the revs up.

stock 883 heads, reverse dome pistons,SE 1200 ign module,S&S carby

doesnt sound like its pinking.

Wouldve like to have gone +06 1200 heads and flat tops for xtra power but lacking in the funds for them..

[nallac]

yeah i can actually see the merit in the "fang it" approach, but remain skeptical until someone explains why the manufacturers take the "gentle" approach to break-in

i was in the same mind ,run it in as per man specs or ride it hard?????????

In the end my lack of self control with the new found power got the better of me.
still not taking it to full throttle yet, that can wait a couple hundred Ks more.

[NordieBoy]

yeah i can actually see the merit in the "fang it" approach, but remain skeptical until someone explains why the manufacturers take the "gentle" approach to break-in

The same manufacturers who redline it on the dyno through each gear on the factory floor.

The gentle break-in approach is more of benefit to the rider.
Gets them used to the bike as well.

There is also a greater margin for error in the gentle approach.
If they wind it up through the revs a couple of times it's not going to cause problems whereas if you're breaking it in harder and wind it on too much you may cause problems.
You've got to control yourself more with the harder break-in.

[Pancakes]

You may think my bike has no relevance but with so little power it's WOT all over the place and any extra power is noticed, probably more than you'd notice on a 1200cc bike cos a tiny bit more throttle would mask any difference.

As soon as I got mine home I ditched the semi-syn it came with and used mineral I got from a rally engine builder mate.

I ran it in according to his advice, up to 80% of max revs from the get-go, full load runs thru the rev range and engine braking. As little idling as possible and no sitting on the same revs.

I went for 2 200 K rides and he recons that was enough distance to do it. ei, it would still be "running in" it's whole life but that first bit matters most.

From sitting beside other Hyosungs I notice a bit more speed and a guy on the exact same bike I was riding with on the weekend said I got alot of speed out of my bike, was pulling away from him.

[Conquiztador]

Used to run in speedway bikes by 30sec no oil. The logic here is that any metal against metal will wear in and then allow for a as little restistance running as possible. When doing the top oil and slowly slowly technique it will take much longer to get all surfaces nicely worn in. This was, in my opinion, clearly demonstrated with the speedway bikes that kept on smoking forever. Mine never did after I adopted the no oil 30 sec method. (OK, have to admit that I never got to 30 seconds, I always chickened out before that...)

I suppose that with a speedway bike that you rebuild at least once a season the longlivety of the motor is not the main emphasis. But when having a road bike that you want heaps of K's from, then the slowly slowly method might give you more K's outta her before rebuild is needed. Would make sense as it is when surfaces get too worn that a rebuild becomes a must.

So the way I see it: If you want fast and quick response then go for the "trash her straight away" run in. But if you have heaps of HP and you will never use them all or you are just gonna cruize, then perhaps the slowly slowly technique is that will serve you best as you should, in theory, get more K's outta her.