Fair enough, still be going for a low rating diesel oil, the new euro spec rating CI etc are very high detergent, designed for low emission engines that are heavy sooting, they even upset some of the older diesel's and increase oil useage due to there excessive cleaning. post was more of a caution, just happy to see another biker out there doing it.![]()
Had an XS1100 ran it on diesel oil...........great stuff, stripped the engine at over 80,000 kms to try and weld cases ( accident damage) and the lack of wear was remarkable, and the engine was cleanmy current choice is delo 400, rated for use in transmissions and wet clutches.
Beware of any oil claiming to help fuel economy, it may have friction modifiers and this mayyour clutch.
Never use additives
I recon more like 200,000 plus kms, engine oil every 5000 km filter every 10,000 km, change the transmission oils and dont over lube the spline on the drive shaft.
I still have the shim changing tool ( and factory manual ) I used the tool once to change one shim that was at the upper end of the valve tolerances, those XS1100 are tough![]()
Hey It's Mr Nice Guy
So I believe, but even as a dinosaur, there are still a lot of modern rides that just dont have the grunt these old yammys have.
Ok, so the handling is not the best, and i guess the ride is a bit loose compared to the new stuff, but it still keeps up, and even a bit better sometimes.
Just like to know that she was the top of the super bikes of her year,
even the mighty kwaka was left behind lol
I think I may be one eyed!
lol
To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.
My old high km rattler doesn't burn anything -- it does leak all over the place, but no oil will fix that short of glue
Not much shorter intervals than what the workshop manual recommends; I just can't tolerate the loss of gearbox precision after 2000kms. I've tried some fancy Motul shit in it but it lasted less kilometres before the engine started to feel shitty, cost at least twice as much, and for some reason during that period the engine was even harder to start. Maybe just coincidence, but stick with what you know I suppose. 1.7L is correct; at least the frequent change intervals aren't too expensive. Wish the 5L Delo 400 containers just had an extra 100mLs in them!
For all intents and purposes, there's no filter. There is a little square of wire mesh in the bottom of the sump, but that's really only good for small rocksRight-hand-side crankcase cover has to come off to clean it, along with brake pedal, kickstart lever and exhaust. Thanks, Soichiro!
Anyway, sorry, back on topic.
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