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Thread: Need some advice, TT250 oil leak!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    26th November 2007 - 07:01
    Bike
    1981 Yamaha TT250
    Location
    Wanganui
    Posts
    30
    Well, just as everyone said, its not over!

    For those interested, heres a pic of what it looks like after I chipped all that shit off

    http://i11.tinypic.com/7yfr6u9.jpg

    Unlucky aye Wired1?!

    I went into bay engineers today, and they do have the devcon aluminium putty on the shelf, but it was $160! Fark!!

    So as above, Ill try the knead it, see how it holds out, and then if need be, splash out for the devcon..

    One thing though, as I was chipping away at the several layers of crap, half a screw fell out. Probably the screw that Wired1 said held the clutch lever rod still. How would you suggest going about gooing that up with knead it? Put the screw in place and then put knead it around it?

    And, where should the screw be?

    Cheers again!

    - Mr half-ass

  2. #17
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
    Bike
    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
    Location
    Sunny Nelson
    Posts
    672
    Oh bugger, well you should know that there are plenty of TT250 cases like this around thanks to a stunning design flaw - when the chain breaks it smashes into the case and often takes this screw out (how much more would it have cost to put in a steel chain guard in this area?). The screw that fell out screws into the groove you can see in the clutch lever rod and stops it bouncing out the top of the case. One of my cases has been repaired here and there isn't any sign of the screw nor the original hole - they just tigged over the whole lot I reckon. The first one of these engines I got had this problem and I carefully dismantled the whole engine and rebuilt it with another left hand case. You're not supposed to do this because they machine the cases together as a pair but it worked fine on mine so I probably got lucky. For $160 I would take it along to my local metal fabricator and get them to attempt to weld it up as is with the clutch shaft still in there. The alloy shouldn't stick to the clutch shaft and when it cools down should still move. Failing that - try the knead-it, and push it well in so that it molds around the clutch lever shaft and holds that in too. Don't worry about the screw, it's the least of your worries.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
    Bike
    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
    Location
    Sunny Nelson
    Posts
    672
    Here's a couple of photos of what it should look like. Photo two is the motor I am rebuilding for the next bike and photo 3 is the one that has been welded up and looks to be an OK job.
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  4. #19
    Join Date
    26th November 2007 - 07:01
    Bike
    1981 Yamaha TT250
    Location
    Wanganui
    Posts
    30
    Hell that 3rd one has been goo-ed up something crazy!

    Thanks for all that, gives me an idea of what Im actually trying to do. This time of year all the engineers are on holiday till early Jan, and even then, theyll be busy as with everyones holiday breakages, so Ill have a crack with knead-it now. (theres that impatience rearing its ugly head again)

    When I was chipping the stuff out, some small, small chunks may have fallen into where the clutch lever is, is that an issue?

    First thing in the morning ill get into M10 mega and get a super rough dremel bit, put it into the drill, and rough the case up. Might help a bit..

    Iv got a can of cheap brake cleaner, you reckon thats enough to get all the oils etc away from there? Or what would you recommend?

    Cheers dude

  5. #20
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
    Bike
    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
    Location
    Sunny Nelson
    Posts
    672
    That third photo is actually welded up not bogged. I'm planning on rebuilding this engine so when I do I'll clean it up and get a decent photo of it if I can.
    The bottom of that clutch shaft lever pushes the clutch rod across the engine to the other side where the clutch is so it is unlikely any bit falling in will get into the main body of the bottom end. I guess if the bits were big enough they might obstruct the lever movement but if it still works now it should be OK. The special cleaner I use most is petrol - I'd stuff a rag in the gaping fissure (that's hole) before cleaning it up with a small brush and petrol. Tooth brushes normally fall apart so don't borrow your girl friend's one. The edges of the hole look rough enough to take the putty so don't worry too much about the dremmel treatment - you want it rough not smooth.
    And if it looks OK post us another picture.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    26th November 2007 - 07:01
    Bike
    1981 Yamaha TT250
    Location
    Wanganui
    Posts
    30
    Well I had a crack at it this morning, and I think it went well!

    Cleaned it up really well, and used a scribe to really scratch the hell outta the crank case, hopefully itll bite well.

    Heres an updated pic

    http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3...leccaserc1.jpg

    Havent started it yet, wanted to give it ample time to cure. Will be back with the verdict tomorrow!

    Cheers again Wired1

  7. #22
    Join Date
    25th April 2006 - 19:53
    Bike
    1972 Yamaha XS2 650
    Location
    Sunny Nelson
    Posts
    672
    Looks convincing, I hope it sticks

  8. #23
    Join Date
    26th November 2007 - 07:01
    Bike
    1981 Yamaha TT250
    Location
    Wanganui
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by Wired1 View Post
    Looks convincing, I hope it sticks
    It stuck

    Was riding around all day today, and didnt lose a drop of oil.

    Hopefully it stays that way for years!

    Cheers again

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