New paintjob suggestions for NC30

**motorbyclist** · 15th December 2007, 17:33

Originally Posted by Coyote

How much do custon vinyls cost?

depends on th graphic, the size, where/how you get them and if they're standard or custom, and unless you apply them yourself the shape of the bike will affect labour costs aswell

when i was signwriting we had a job for some honda race bikes, already painted red, and we were to cover it in sponsors and some black honda wings. took a full 8 hour day per bike to get all that done, would've been a bit easier if they had given us a bike to mount the fairings to to line up the wings. dunno what the cost was

vinyl can be good compared to paint in that very little work (money) is required. just paint a base colour and go from there - but unless you've got the right stuff for the job you can't paint or clear over it cause it shrinks and stones will easily damage it - and it's a right bastard to apply to non-flat surfaces, especially bike fairings

you can generally get sets of graphics off trademe or go to signwriter and get them made up for cheaper

you can get some good reflective scotchlite vinyls though to make yourself more visible - i put some on my helmet, might put some on the bike

Originally Posted by Coyote

Several people have already done that. Still, I'm pretty keen to do that, I've always loved the VTR1000 SP in those colours

damn that does look nice

**breakaway** · 16th December 2007, 19:33

Originally Posted by motorbyclist

oh yeah, i need a new screen; anyone know where i can buy them cheap?

i'm tempted to leave it original, but at the same time i'm young and want bright racy colours, stripes and flames - cause they make it go faster

the bike isn't going to be sold to anyone other than insurance, and then i'd probably buy it back off them, so selling her isn't an issue if people would pay more for a classic nc30

I paid ~$30 incl shipping for my screen from eBay after my little incident.

**motorbyclist** · 16th December 2007, 21:11

Originally Posted by breakaway

I paid ~$30 incl shipping for my screen from eBay after my little incident.

might have a look

**arj127** · 22nd December 2007, 06:58

still open for paint suggestions as i'm still preparing the tail/tank and am yet to cover everything in primer.... hoping to have the new subframe on the vfr by tuesday night and get it to the shop so we can mask up the new job on wednesday

Don't forget about the newish 2K paint that LJ Smits sells. Its damn easy to work with and will leave a flat shiny as surface straight off the gun without the need for cutting/buffing. I painted my previous bike about a year or so ago, and couldn't make my mind up on met green or met blue. The colour looks awesome out in the sun. I painted the wheels a light metallic gunmetal grey colour.

**arj127** · 22nd December 2007, 07:00

see http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=61108

**motorbyclist** · 30th January 2008, 15:11

ok guys, it's been a while due to work and other commitments, but tomorrow i'm finally going to be buying some paint and hopefully throwing on the first coat

but still unsure of what i want

that ducati tricolour looks really good now cause it'll be cheap and easy.....

what to do?!

**Fatjim** · 30th January 2008, 15:36

Check out the rothmans scheme PB or superbikes (I can't remeber which) did to their long termer fireblade. That was pretty much the best scheme I'd ever seen on a road bike.

**JustTrix400** · 1st February 2008, 22:28

Wow I am doing up a 1989 VFR as well. I am getting the following paint scheme on mine. I have a bee fetish, no Im not a bee keeper, I just like yellow as its a real safety color plus my current bike is yellow like a bee as well.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...x_mockup21.jpg

**motorbyclist** · 1st February 2008, 23:14

that looks interesting... post up some pics once you're done

thursday i ordered the paint (holy crap that shit is expensive), then promptly changed my mind but too late now

will take my rims into work and sandblast them cause it's either that or another go with caustic soda. some of the tar/gravel/brake dust on there is harder than the paint is! i haven't tried sanding yet, but it's way too fiddly so that's a weapon of last resort

would try to get away with just the heavy etching on the old paint, but that bloody road grime in some places is that bad the only way i could remove it was with a screwdriver

so sand blast it is

then put tyres back on, paint rims, take rims home, put on bike, bring bike out to shop, mask everything up, spray first colour, hopefully have vinyls ready so i can get round to second and 3rd colours and maybe be near finished by this friday

(painting with tyres deflated and masked to avoid damage to the paint trying to get the tyre back on)

**slydesigns** · 2nd February 2008, 14:13

Don't listen to ANYONE one here that says "not to paint it its a classic". The bikes yours, if they want to left stock because its a classic they should buy it. Otherwise, make the damn thing your own, any style YOU wish. Its YOUR money and YOUR ass that rides it, no one elses. Its like someone saying you shouldn,t get a tat because THEY don't like them, you can't take them off and the "perfect" girl won't like them... who cares what they think!

DON'T buy a vinyl kit off the net. Get one made, they can also do a mask set for spraying in a proper computer cuttable masking vinyl. This is particularly useful for making up sponsor style logos for spraying on the bellypan etc. I know because I'm a signwriter and currently heavily customising my NC29 CBR400RR.

Check out www.tygaperformance.com for some radical NC30/NC35 paint ideas.

This is the basic look of mine when we finish fitting up the TYGA bodywork and paint it after Waitangi day.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nBabyBlade.jpg
Got a green Ek chain, Green HEL braided lines, a set of black centre wavey discs and a set of Green and Black Pazzo shorty levers for it too.

**motorbyclist** · 2nd February 2008, 18:13

Originally Posted by slydesigns

Don't listen to ANYONE one here that says "not to paint it its a classic". The bikes yours, if they want to left stock because its a classic they should buy it. Otherwise, make the damn thing your own, any style YOU wish. Its YOUR money and YOUR ass that rides it, no one elses. Its like someone saying you shouldn,t get a tat because THEY don't like them, you can't take them off and the "perfect" girl won't like them... who cares what they think!

DON'T buy a vinyl kit off the net. Get one made, they can also do a mask set for spraying in a proper computer cuttable masking vinyl. This is particularly useful for making up sponsor style logos for spraying on the bellypan etc. I know because I'm a signwriter and currently heavily customising my NC29 CBR400RR.

Check out www.tygaperformance.com for some radical NC30/NC35 paint ideas.

yeah i didn't want it to be a classic seeing as i don't intend to sell and really who gives a shit? just makes it look retro and thoroughly unimpressive unless the person admiring it actually knows they're looking at an "original, stock standard NC30 in race replica colours"

actually, i was going to leave it scratched until i drop it again, but the old man feels i need to be "punished".... all i care is that it stays reliable and continues to outcorner nearly any other bike out there (anyone can go fast in a straight line, it's the corners that count)

i had a look around tyga, and it really was good to see

and yes i'm getting some masking vinyls sorted. i used to work part time at a signwriters while i was at high school, so know what they're capable of, though never got a chance to use masking vinyls myself.

got any protips for the use of masking vinyl? how much should i be prepared to pay for just the tank decal in masking vinyl? and how much for what may eventuate in two metres of the stuff (wings for the sides of the bike and a bit more on the tail)

**slydesigns** · 4th February 2008, 22:23

The stuff I'm using is the same stuff I use to make my airbrush masks when I'm doing a helmet. Its called ORAMASK from ORACAL. Its about $12.50/m and comes on a 1220mm x 45m roll, so as you can see... its damn cheap. Its semi transparent so you can vaguely see whats under the mask... useful for ding layered masks like logos or 3d effects and masking where you want to lift off a section, spray, them replace the mask before applying another colour.

If you go to a site called www.brandsoftheworld.com you can obtain the corporate honda wing logos already vectorized in an .eps format to supply to a signwriter to cut. Saves you alot in setup fees. All they have to do is load up the .eps, resize and cut. Unless your lucky like me and have your own cutters and printers to indulge in your habit.

I'm doing the fullsize wings on each side, the belly honda logo in the body colour on the carbon bellypan, my company logos and a couple of sponsors for mt project, all in the masking, as well as a helmet to match. Most of mine are reverse weeded masks as the green will be going down first, then the mask and the black wing. So I need extra material on the edge to form a decent border to apply the masking tape to with out encrouching on the cutout mask. I'm planning on 4m x 1220mm of masking.

**motorbyclist** · 4th February 2008, 23:27

sounds good... the signshop i am planning to use already has the honda files (as an ex-employee i'd know), but having it all pre-prepared will definetley be good for the wallet

i was planning on using the mask for the honda graphic on the tank and the honda "wings" on the side of the bike, plus some high-visibility reflective vinyl (got a few metres lying around in the shed) for the other graphics

was going to paint the wings/tank decals first, apply the mask over the top, spray the other colours, remove mask and then clear coat (2pac). then reflective vinyl lettering over the clear (obviously)

any problems with this you can forsee? my uncle doesn't seem to use masking vinyls very often so all the warnings/tips you have/a second opinion would be good

oh, and when are you cutting your mask out?

**slydesigns** · 5th February 2008, 21:41

When Customs finally releases my 12kg box of TYGA goodness. Hoping it will be at home by Friday. Wave Brakes and HEL green braided lines are already in, as is the Shift-i system. Steering damper is being rebuilt on Thursday and green and black Pazzo levers and green chain, then its kit masking and painting time!

Just remember the crappy short lifespan on reflective vinyl, even the flashest Avery and 3M brands, as well as the mess it leaves behind. They can be removed by peeling them off then heating the mess left behind and hitting it with a piece of masking tape.

On the other hand... if you clear the reflective into the paint, it will last longer BUT could also curl up as the clear wicks under the film before its cured.

Basically... reflective sucks butt. Try a background vinyl layer behind the reflective, to aid removal and replacement later. Like a thin black background outline or something.

Normally the mask is pulled up before the paints fully cured to avoid cracking and produce a smoother line. This wont be possible with multiple paint layers. You may have to LIGHTLY run a blade along the mask edge on the paint side to aid releasing of the mask material. The light line left by the blade will be filled by the clear coats. Try a tab or two taped to the centre of the masks to help lift them as well. Tab them before you begin painting but AFTER you have applied the mask.