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Thread: Alloy Handlebars - benefits ??

  1. #1
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    Alloy Handlebars - benefits ??

    I'm looking at a alloy fat-bar conversion for my Honda 919 Hornet. I changed the bars on the second day I had it to a lower set of steel ones but those fat-bar conversions are looking just spiffy.

    So you've gathered my main reason to date is cosmetic (guilty) as I'll end up with the same position I have already changed to. Question - what other benefits do alloy bars have over steel other than weight (not a issue here).

    My steel ones have a huge factory end weight stuffed up them, this will not fit on a alloy bar - will they vibrate like crazy (there's bugger all now) with a alloy one? I read somewhere alloy reduce vibration?

    Switch gear - most I have read says not to drill alloy bars for the switch gear nipples - I fail to see how one 3 x 3 mm hole will cause a bar on a road bike to crack (and I was told the same by several 'dirt' riders) any experience here?
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    Last edited by AllanB; 10th December 2007 at 05:53.

  2. #2
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    hmmm interesting no comments - has nobody changed from steel to alloy on a road bike?

  3. #3
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    Ally bars arent very fatigue resitant to long term vibration (hence the dont drill them, creates weak spots)

    Other than that you could expect to feel a little more vibration, and possibly the bars feeling a little bit more 'flighty' while riding.

    Really doesn't make a huge differnce.


  4. #4
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    I have Renthal SuperMoto bars on my bike and they feel real nice. Less vibration and all that. Alloy in general doesn't last like steel but I'm pretty sure Renthal know more than most of us about bars and aren't going to sell something (for how much $$!!) that will snap. Also ok to drill the locator holes. It says all the way thru, one on each side in the right spots is fine but my nipples aren't too long so I just drilled about half way thru. There's no option to not have switch gear so the road ones will be made for it. I wouldn't advise using MX ones unless you have the drilling etc sussed out by someone in the know first. Also MX bikes don't do the amount of hours as road bikes or have suck sharp knocks passed through the suspension.
    I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
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  5. #5
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    Renthals are the way to go

    Hey guys - I put some Renthals superbike bars on my 919 about 3000ks ago and the feel is awesome. About 5% of the vibes now than what there was before although even that wasn't too bad - not like some poor KBer with his really bizarre vibe problem. I didn't drill for the locator holes, as I had read some bad stuff about fatigue etc if you do. Instead I ground off the pins and wrapped a bit of duct tape around before tightening the grips. OK, sounds a bit mickey mouse I know but no probs. You just got to take off the really naff padding from the Renthals before you go out - please!!
    Never try and teach a pig to sing: it's a waste of time, and it annoys the pig. --Robert A. Heinlein .

  6. #6
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    The 'fat bar' comment makes me wonder... typically the Jap bikes appear to be 22mm (7/8") in diameter, on their crosser style bars and there clip ons. I assume yours is this size too. If you're going to a 'fat bar' (assuming 25.4mm (1")) like some of the cruiser type bikes have, I'm picking you'll need a new throttle/switch gear assembly?

    I'm guessing you're after the ones that'll take your regular switch gear, but I thought I'd mention it (cause the fat ones do indeed look 'phat')

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    The 'fat bar' comment makes me wonder... typically the Jap bikes appear to be 22mm (7/8") in diameter, on their crosser style bars and there clip ons. I assume yours is this size too. If you're going to a 'fat bar' (assuming 25.4mm (1")) like some of the cruiser type bikes have, I'm picking you'll need a new throttle/switch gear assembly?

    I'm guessing you're after the ones that'll take your regular switch gear, but I thought I'd mention it (cause the fat ones do indeed look 'phat')
    They are 28-29 mm at the clamp points and taper to 22 so the switch gear etc can fit. There is a clamp adapter that you can purchase that bolts into the existing 22 mm lower clamp and fits the 28 one. Check the picture as it kind of shows the taper from 28 to 22. Phat they are!

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    Nice! :thumbsup:

  9. #9
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    They look similar to the "Renthal Fat Bars" that came standard on my new RMZ. On my first big crash they bent (end of bar moved about 5mm)
    Have now gone for "Pro Taper"
    As they have a higher lift. (better for the back)

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