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Thread: HELP!!! having clutch bleeding problems

  1. #16
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    10th December 2005 - 15:33
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    I feel your pain, working flat out to get on the road ASAP, bleeding and rebuilding for the last three days for various brake issues. Hands are fooooked from the fluid. R1 madness is onto it, have to prime master and slave before anything will happen.

  2. #17
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Bleed the master cylinder first (that is to say, remove the banjo bolt, cap the opening with your finger, cover the whole thing with a clean rag and pump the fluid through a small gap on the top side of the threaded hole. Then quickly reassemble the hose and bleed normally).

    Quote Originally Posted by R1madness View Post
    Go to a pet shop. Buy a 1.5 meter length of 6mm internal diameter fish pump air hose
    Cheaper at Bunnings...
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  3. #18
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    19th October 2005 - 20:32
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    If the new piston kit has been fitted dry into the master cylinder and there's any hint of scoring within the cylinder bore then you're in for grief either way, priming the system or not.
    The piston kit should be fitted wet or at least have a smear of proper rubber grease on the seals.

    Or have the piston seals been fitted facing the proper way or not?

  4. #19
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    7th December 2007 - 12:09
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    Don't wanna be clever, but '87 bike....have you put back the original rubber brakehose?.....Sounds like you are not getting a closed circuit....If hose is porous, it either expands far to much, or even lets in air...
    Braided brakelines came out for a reason.....

    Master brake cylinder rubbers can fail to, especialy if they have been sitting dry for a while...
    Good luck
    Opinions are like arseholes: Everybody has got one, but that doesn't mean you got to air it in public all the time....

  5. #20
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    19th July 2005 - 20:17
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    This is getting you loads of advice about bleeding brake units isn't it.

    Not sure how the Suzuki system is set up, but my VFR clutch was a sod to bleed.
    Thats because unlike a brake system, which applies a clamping pressure, the slave piston moves with the lever, operating the clutch pack.

    I found the easiest way was to remove the slave cylinder from the engine casing and clutch pushrod, and restrain the piston using a block of wood and a G clamp.

    Now the piston cannot cycle back and forward with the lever operation, and you can now pump fluid thru the system, rather just up and down the line.

    Hope that helps you out some.
    vagrant

  6. #21
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    1st March 2006 - 18:44
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSXR_BIKER View Post
    , I cant seeem to bleed it, Fluid comes out the bleed tube, but clutch wont harden up, Think I am doing it right, even replaced the Master cylinder to see if that was the problem, Any suggestions?
    Its not ment to harden up its a CLUTCH not a brake if its hard like your brake you've got problems

  7. #22
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    19th November 2003 - 18:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by orangeback View Post
    Its not ment to harden up its a CLUTCH not a brake if its hard like your brake you've got problems
    lol I hope this is a troll!

  8. #23
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Quote Originally Posted by vagrant View Post
    ...because unlike a brake system, which applies a clamping pressure, the slave piston moves with the lever, operating the clutch pack.
    That makes no difference - there's still pressure via the clutch springs and the slave cylinder is static until there's enough air removed for the master cylinder pressure to move it... just like brake calipers.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  9. #24
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Did you get this sorted or do you still need help?

  10. #25
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    30th March 2004 - 11:00
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    Something that helps is to first loosen the banjo at the slave cylinder end to get the fluid flowing, and remove any bubbles that are between the lever end and the slave cylinder. Then tighten it again and use the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder.

  11. #26
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    5th December 2007 - 11:04
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    methinks your trouble is air bubble in the line my friend, you can can spend all day pumping and 3gallons later still no clutch. the air bubble is always trying to rise back to the master cylinder. option 1; turn the bike upside down and pump (sorry just kidding) option 2 and much better is back bleed the circuit. empty an oil can and fill it with the appropriate clutch fluid and attach to bleed nipple with piece of rubber tubing and slowly and gently pump the fluid through, this will force the bubble back to the reservoir and all will be good, willing to bet my beloved bottle of cold speights on it

  12. #27
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    19th November 2003 - 18:45
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    or leave a bungy cord tight around the lever over night and the bubble might make its way up after being under pressure for a few hours!

  13. #28
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Quote Originally Posted by autos View Post
    empty an oil can and fill it with the appropriate clutch fluid
    Please don't do this. If you're going to try the technique, buy a new can. I don't want to have to make you a new clutch hose and find rubber seals to suit the master and slave

  14. #29
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    Or just fucking well do it properly as has already been posted which requires no special equipment.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  15. #30
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Quote Originally Posted by awful-truth View Post
    Or just fucking well do it properly as has already been posted which requires no special equipment.
    I agree with this 100%. Most things will bleed with the correct technique, and I've a few tricks for those that won't, just waiting to hear if he's still having trouble... I keep an 8mm spanner and a bleeder tube in my backpack all the time

    /edit: Yep, still there

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