Help Needed: Fixing my brakes and a few other minor things

[breakaway]

Hello,

Just went to get my WoF today, got done for the following things:

First the minor stuff:

• Left footpeg - needs to be re aligned (Currently the "feeler" on the peg is facing towards the back of the bike due to it going for a little slide last weekend, and it needs to face towards the ground, and it's a simple matter of unbolting and turning it around but I can't manage to get even the hanger off (Bolt is in too tight)

And the major stuff

• Front brakes binding - apparently the brake is grabbing. The guy said something about pulling apart the calipers and cleaning them, maybe replacing a few parts?

• Head bearing adjustment - Ever since I got this bike, since it has a RGV250 (or something) front end on it, I've had issues with the sides of the bars touching the fairing, automatic horn activation upon full left lock, etc - I got failed on that this time, but when I complied it, it wasn't a problem. Strange. I'm not sure what needs to be done here

I'd like someone help me to fix the brakes (I'd do most of the work under someone's supervision), so I don't %@#@^ it up completely. Will provide payment in form of your favourite beverage. Funds are real tight right now, and having to replace the tyres for the WOF as well means I don't have much to throw around at all.

PM me / post here if you are able to help!

[Max Preload]

Front brakes binding - apparently the brake is grabbing. The guy said something about pulling apart the calipers and cleaning them, maybe replacing a few parts?

This depends on the particular setup (sliding or fixed caliper etc) and could be an easy or time consuming fix - and you won't really know until the calipers are off what the problem is likely to be.

Head bearing adjustment - Ever since I got this bike, since it has a RGV250 (or something) front end on it, I've had issues with the sides of the bars touching the fairing, automatic horn activation upon full left lock, etc - I got failed on that this time, but when I complied it, it wasn't a problem. Strange. I'm not sure what needs to be done here

Sounds like the steering stop is not coming into contact where it should and this is not a 5 min fix if it's a front end off another bike. However, since it was LVV certed like that and the fact it's not specifically listed as a failable item in the WoF VIRM, I'd take issue with it being picked on.

[xwhatsit]

Head bearing adjustment

Are those the exact words he used? Your steering head bearing doesn't have anything to do with the lock. Something different, that wears out and often seems to crop up in WoFs. Is your steering notchy? Does it have a notchy spot when the bars are straight? If so, you need to replace the bearings. Easy. Hell of a lot easier than brakes. Or perhaps the front-end just feels a bit loose -- in which case you just need to tighten the steering head nut a little. A little tricky to know when it's tightened enough -- very easy to over tighten, but you'll know when it's right as the bars will still be able to flop from side to side easily with the wheel unweighted, but there will be slight resistance.

[Max Preload]

Are those the exact words he used? Your steering head bearing doesn't have anything to do with the lock. Something different, that wears out and often seems to crop up in WoFs. Is your steering notchy? Does it have a notchy spot when the bars are straight? If so, you need to replace the bearings. Easy. Hell of a lot easier than brakes. Or perhaps the front-end just feels a bit loose -- in which case you just need to tighten the steering head nut a little. A little tricky to know when it's tightened enough -- very easy to over tighten, but you'll know when it's right as the bars will still be able to flop from side to side easily with the wheel unweighted, but there will be slight resistance.

Good point - comes down to interpretation of what was specifically stated on the checksheet. If it says "steering head bearing adjustment" it'll be play. Once the play is removed it may become noticably notchy, for which the only fix is replacement. Have the other items (horn & bar contact with the fairing) been mentioned?

[breakaway]

Exact words from the wof sheet "Steering head bearing adjustment?"

I was told that it is touching (Horn contact when turned left, starter contact when turned right). I solved the horn problem by tilting the switchblock to face a little more "upwards". I presume it needs to be adjusted so it stops just short of touching?

[awayatc]

[*] Front brakes binding - apparently the brake is grabbing. The guy said something about pulling apart the calipers and cleaning them, maybe replacing a few parts? [/LIST]

I'd like someone help me to fix the brakes (I'd do most of the work under someone's supervision), so I don't %@#@^ it up completely. Will provide payment in form of your favourite beverage. Funds are real tight right now, and having to replace the tyres for the WOF as well means I don't have much to throw around at all.

PM me / post here if you are able to help!

If you got a few basic tools, a bit of common sense/logic and a bit of spare time, why don't you do the brakes yourself completely? Not much to it realy....
It sounds more likely then not that all you have to do is take callipers off , clean, ....reassemble.
If pads would have been worn, it would have said so on WOF sheet.
(one part of calliper is bolted onto fork, the other slides in and out of that one to make up for padwear and release when you let go of brake....With dirt and gunk build up the sliding bit doesn't go smooth anymore....Maybe even CRC able while on bike! just don't spray brakepads!)
Good luck

[The Pastor]

when you overhaul the brakes, make sure you replace the seals, buy a seal kit from your dealer or whoever you use for parts.

I have no idea about your footpeg? sounds werid.

[Edbear]

If you want a good mechanic, you could give Tim, (Classic-Z), a call in Whangaparaoa, (Hibiscus Coast Service Centre). 09-424 0477. He's a KB'r and a good guy. Does a lot of bikes now.

[xwhatsit]

Exact words from the wof sheet "Steering head bearing adjustment?"

I was told that it is touching (Horn contact when turned left, starter contact when turned right). I solved the horn problem by tilting the switchblock to face a little more "upwards". I presume it needs to be adjusted so it stops just short of touching?

Well your steering head bearing has nothing to do with full lock. So either the tester is not very bright (not at all unlikely), or you might be confusing two separate things. Adjusting your steering head bearing will not alter your bike's lock in any way.

If those are the words he wrote then it's probably a bit loose (the big nut on the top of the triple clamp). See above.

[breakaway]

It's all been sorted, thanks to awful-truth. Solved the issue with the horn etc touching by adjusting the clip ons.

While removing the caliper for inspection, we found that there was lots of play in the front wheel (left bearing had collapsed)



After the seal was removed:



The balls were just "freeballing" around in there

It really bothers me that was never picked up by bike shops on two separate occasions (first when i had it checked over after buying, and then when I took it back after my bin). Both times I got an invoice with "Bearings checked" written, but guess not. And during the Warrant of Fitness. I mean shit, It even passed VTNZ compliance with a fucked bearing. Tops.

After making several calls, we finally sourced the bearing from repco. Installing this bearing made a world of difference, Every time I went over bumps, there was a hard Knock. I put that down to shitty suspension, but that's gone now. Also my bike no longer pulls to the left during braking, and feels a lot smoother.

[Max Preload]

It's pretty scary when a WoF inspector can't tell the difference between steering head bearing play and a badly damaged and cageless deep groove ball bearing in a wheel - even more so when they only deal with bikes.

One of the axle spacers was also not square meaning any axial loads were being placed on only one point of the bearing, no doubt leading to it's failure. So I ground it square - it didn't come out too bad according to the vernier.

All the caliper pistons moved freely and evenly (fixed caliper, floating disc) so I suspect any brake drag was simply as a result of the wheel not being perpendicular to the axle due to the bearing.

The footpeg just needed tightening and swinging the clip-ons forward restored the switchgear clearance to the tank and the turning circle (had the turning circle of the Ark Royal! ).