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Thread: How to remove corrosion?

  1. #1
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    How to remove corrosion?

    Hey People,

    I Recently bought a 1993 ZXR250c. It's a great bike in general, however It has obviously either come into contact with water at some point, or been left outside as there is surface rust on most aluminium parts. My question is how do I remove it?

    Pretty much all the unpainted/uncoated aluminium is doing it. Someone told me mag wheel cleaner works well?

    Also, being new to bike parts and their prices, would it cost me an 'arm and a leg' to replace simple things like nuts and bolts that have corroded? Or are genuine Kawasaki parts not super expensive?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Mag wheel cleaners are often caustic - it may remove the corrosion,but it will open the way for worse corrosion to develop

  3. #3
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    A good metal polish should remove it, but if it's really bad then you may need to use something more abrasive, like fine sandpaper.
    Apparently that Nyalic is the stuff to follow up with - it's expensive, but does an excellent job of protecting alloy from further corrosion.

    If you do decide to use a mag wheel polish, just read the directions: if it is caustic, it will say so on the bottle, and you'll need to wash it thoroughly afterwards and apply some waxy polish over the top to keep it from corroding again.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  4. #4
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    You sure it's corrosion?

    Usually jap makers clear coat the polished alloy with laquer and then later it starts yellowing and coming of and looks scabby

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman View Post
    A good metal polish should remove it, but if it's really bad then you may need to use something more abrasive, like fine sandpaper.
    Apparently that Nyalic is the stuff to follow up with - it's expensive, but does an excellent job of protecting alloy from further corrosion.

    If you do decide to use a mag wheel polish, just read the directions: if it is caustic, it will say so on the bottle, and you'll need to wash it thoroughly afterwards and apply some waxy polish over the top to keep it from corroding again.
    What about getting rid of as much of the rust as possible, and then painting over it with a zinc oxide? It would really help in stopping future corrosion, wouldn't it?
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf View Post
    Time to cut out the "holier/more enlightened than thou" bullshit and the "slut" comments and let people live honestly how they like providing they're not harming themselves or others in the process.

  6. #6
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    It would be good if you could post a picture. If it is corrosion, you could use a wire brush (if it's REALLY bad) and follow up with Autosol. It's a long job.

  7. #7
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    Autosol metal polish, petrol stations sell it.

  8. #8
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    back from the dead so soon skidmark?

    Quote Originally Posted by skidMark View Post
    Autosol metal polish, petrol stations sell it.
    its Crazy Big Al but if your have lesbian fantasies you can read it crazy bi gal if you like!

  9. #9
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    It was a worthwhile suggestion, I'm a big Autosol fan. Not so keen on all the rubbing though :/

  10. #10
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    yup Autosol is the best product I think i've ever used. It has removed allt he oxidation on the pegs and stand, but on the motor where its a little worse the corrosion wont budge.

  11. #11
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    Got any pictures buddy?

  12. #12
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    Here is the only photo I have the moment.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ZXR250 Motor.jpg 
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Size:	66.1 KB 
ID:	83331  

  13. #13
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    Fark mate, got your work cut out for you there!!! That's a drop the motor mission! Still, if you're will to go that far:

    - Get a dremel, or some other rotary tool. Doesn't have to be a name brand, just make sure it's got a bit of heft in your hand, as that indicates a serious sized motor, and that'll serve you better than some random piece of shit from the warehouse. About $100.
    - Get a small wirewheel attachment for it, use that to get it back to clean alloy
    - Get some 400, 600, 800 wet n dry, use that to bring it back to smooth
    - Get some buffs for your dremel, and some autosol. Stop polishing when you've had enough. The more like a mirror you want it, the more you'll need to keep going.

    Go hard, it can be done

  14. #14
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    teh pic of your bike shows definat water damage from being left in the rain too long or eaven near salt water.
    By the way Aluminion does not ""rust"" it only corrodes, but in doing so can weaken right through, not just the surface.
    I suggest, if the wallet allows it, to get a profesional job done and have the items polished then anodised. you can add good custom look to your bike, and a surface that will out last any laquer crap on the market.
    Anodising can be done in nearly any colour you want, just costs.
    But yeah
    Alloy corrosion due to excessive exposure to water and or salty conditions can end up turning your alloy into a white powder, a more dangeous situation than rust, as the corossion goes right through the item, not just on the surface.
    To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.

  15. #15
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    autosole is what i use, but when that aint enough i use steelo pads followed by a fine wet and dry after that i keep useing silocon 808 to stop it coming back,steelos work well on rust spots on stainless,recommend trying it on an unseen spot first.

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