Anyone wanna go halves in a H7 35 Watt HID Unit

[LoC]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-124052632.htm
These are the low beam for me busa (or any bike that takes a H7 for that matter) and I reckon $109 bucks is peanuts ($218 per pair off trade me delivered)
I'm all ears if anyone knows better !
So don't be shy
The difference between these and halogens really is night n day

Cher!

[Pancakes]

The guy on TM that does the Azoza brand said to me he'd do just one for bikes. I didn't go ahead with it cos I'm not sure if the high voltage cable these have would take the bending back a forth my bike would give it (being naked). Yours being faired wouold be mint.

If this light fits your bike buddy up with LoC, these lights are amazing, use less power (more on startup) and the clear view is awesome, if you ride at night you won't regret it. Make sure you make up a new loom for it out of reasonable gauge wire tho, don't just tap into the bikes loom.

[imdying]

More info? Links?

More heat? Less current draw in run mode it would seem (35W instead of whatever I have), but more on startup Pancakes?

[Pancakes]

More info? Links?

More heat? Less current draw in run mode it would seem (35W instead of whatever I have), but more on startup Pancakes?

Yeah less draw while running (35W HID will give the light of maybe a 90+W filament bulb and a better colour temperature for visability too and less temp than the same power (draw, not output) filament bulb).

Up to and over 9000v on startup is normal for HID bulbs. There is no contact so think gas filled bulb with a welder in it and your there. Stare at a welder to get the feeling if you like!!

The unit will have a startup capacitor and a power cleaner to make sure it gets exactly the power it needs while running not the 9-16 volts most vehicles can range in.

I know we're talking H7 here but cos they take time to fire up the H4 ones are interesting. You don't need a 1-2 second delay in light when you change beams so the high beam in an H4 light leaves the same arc lit and rotates a little light shield around the bulb (other systems too but this is the best IMO). Interesting fix for the problem.


Edit, when looking at these systems the colour temp is the colour (white thru to purple/blue) in Kelvin and the actual power in output is in Lumens. They are inverse of each other so check carefully. To see how it compares to what you have now the Hella site has lots of info.

[LoC]

woulda lost me jaw if it wasn't for me chinstrap when I first had a blat on a mates bike that had em... unbefar%#$kinlievable ...they really were!

They seemed to project a pure white square the size of a tennis court 10m in front.

H7s are sweet for busa's coz our lowbeam is always on as soon as the ignition is turned on.

Highbeam simply adds another bulb (HB3) (which I would change to hid too....if I had a money tree)

My std light I spose like most suzi sports bikes leaves ya guessin in the tight twisties when ya swingin from cheek to cheek!.

Go ooon Imdying... you know you want to!

I have plenty of links but alas they're all busa sites

Just google image search hid

Cher!

[Zapf]

I currently have H7 HID's in my bird, they are good.

The only problem is that when you put your highbeams on you realise that halogen hi beam is really weak. And with your eyes adjusted to the HID lowbeams the contrast difference takes a while to get used to.

[BMW]

thpught non standard HIDs are banned?!

[Coyote]

Is making the wiring loom for them difficult? The headlights on my VFR aren't working properly (going from low beam to hi turns the lights off, so I'm stuck with low beams. Also neutral light and brake lights don't work) so bypassing the problem might be easier (yet to look inside the switchblocks)

[imdying]

Go ooon Imdying... you know you want to!

I'm not much good to you mate, looking at the workshop manual, it doesn't tell you what sort of base the bulb has, but looks H4 from the pics.

[Pancakes]

thpught non standard HIDs are banned?!

Well not road certified but any lght adjusted wrong will be bad for you and other road users and adjusted right these are sooo much safer. You don't know what you can't see until you try a light upgrade. WOF guys won't snap your or care or even know what your std loom looks like anyway I'm sure.

Is making the wiring loom for them difficult? The headlights on my VFR aren't working properly (going from low beam to hi turns the lights off, so I'm stuck with low beams. Also neutral light and brake lights don't work) so bypassing the problem might be easier (yet to look inside the switchblocks)

Nah mate. I can help you or make one for you. Worth it even if you don't want to go for HID's. A 1 Volt drop in power will result in a third less output from your bulb. If you want to run a higher power bulb the extra juice will deal to the lightweight wiring and switches in most bikes in the end. Look here from post #10 for how I did mine. I run a 90 low/130W high H4 now with over 13V constant to the bulb.

I'm not much good to you mate, looking at the workshop manual, it doesn't tell you what sort of base the bulb has, but looks H4 from the pics.

Two filaments in the same bulb with a little metal plate between is H4, the others are H3, H7 etc.

[imdying]

Two filaments in the same bulb with a little metal plate between is H4, the others are H3, H7 etc.

Yep, pretty sure they're H4 then.

So what's the deal, I can get a H4 kit that was HID Hi/Lo, with a bulb that has a little moving plate thingy in it right?

That'd kick butt The SV lights are pretty good (courtesy of decent sized reflectors), but I've never said no to more light!

I haven't followed your link, but I'm guessing you've direct wired your standard bulbs to the battery via a couple of relays?

[Pancakes]

Yep, pretty sure they're H4 then.

So what's the deal, I can get a H4 kit that was HID Hi/Lo, with a bulb that has a little moving plate thingy in it right?

That'd kick butt The SV lights are pretty good (courtesy of decent sized reflectors), but I've never said no to more light!

I haven't followed your link, but I'm guessing you've direct wired your standard bulbs to the battery via a couple of relays?

Yep, and used the std hi and low as the switch source. Made a nice loom tho that doesn't cut the std wires and can just plug in and out again.

[imdying]

Nice. I remember having to do things like that to old British cars I've owned (Viva, Escort)... the poor old switch gear in them increases in resistance with age (corrosion, whatever), which reduces the current at the bulbs... but of course, it's more than enough current to switch some relays

Whilst I don't have that trouble with the 06 SV1000 running standard bulbs, it would still be an excellent idea if I were to increase the wattage of the bulbs, to eliminate the standard wiring from frying due to the increased current draw

However, I don't want to go down that route, as the SVs big plastic reflectors look expensive to replace should I melt them with hire wattage (heat) bulbs

Which brings us to the HIDs, they look like a good plan, if they're good ones

[Pancakes]

Nice. I remember having to do things like that to old British cars I've owned (Viva, Escort)... the poor old switch gear in them increases in resistance with age (corrosion, whatever), which reduces the current at the bulbs... but of course, it's more than enough current to switch some relays

Whilst I don't have that trouble with the 06 SV1000 running standard bulbs, it would still be an excellent idea if I were to increase the wattage of the bulbs, to eliminate the standard wiring from frying due to the increased current draw

However, I don't want to go down that route, as the SVs big plastic reflectors look expensive to replace should I melt them with hire wattage (heat) bulbs

Which brings us to the HIDs, they look like a good plan, if they're good ones

Which is where tardme alway gets me a bit sus'. Caveat Emptor. (sp?)

[imdying]

Yes, every man and his dog can import the cheapest crap they can find in China/Taiwan... and they do