Matching tyres - big deal ??

**prvoke** · 29th February 2008, 14:41

So ive got a Bridgestone Battleax on the front - near new as i had to replace it for last wof and i dont ride a whole heap. Rear one is due for this wof check. Do i need to get the same/similar model? Ive found a 140/70r17 Dunlop GPR80 for $120 thats near new and as far as i know its a far better tyre than the battleax. Sweet to run it or not really? Its on a CBR250R and im not getting my knee down or anything.
advise appreciated

**SVboy** · 29th February 2008, 19:23

I am interested in this too. I have Bridgee bt014s both ends, but wil probably toast the back fairly soon. I want to try Metzler m3s-will putting one on the back be ok, or should my wallet htfu and buy a matched set all at once?

**FROSTY:Me** · 29th February 2008, 20:32

its about matching profiles rather than brands to be honest.

**toebug** · 29th February 2008, 20:38

Originally Posted by FROSTY

its about matching profiles rather than brands to be honest.

Agreed! I have only ever run 2 the same when I have scored a package deal. I tend to run whatever on the front and choose a compound on the rear. I like a rear that is harder in the centre and softer on the sides so I dont square it off commuting. Battleaxes are probably the chepaest out there and I have found them to be very average. I guess you get what you pay for!

**prvoke** · 1st March 2008, 08:17

its the right size and for $120 its about $70-$100 cheaper than a new battleax bt45. Im not far off getting my full license so i wont be sticking with the cbr for too much longer either.
think il just grab it then
thanks guys

**Blackbird** · 1st March 2008, 09:09

Frosty's spot on the money.

If you have different profiles, as you turn into a corner the mis-match will have the same effect as your tyres not being down a common centre line and this will have an impact on both handling and the rate of turn-in. I'm probably over-anal but I always change front and rear tyres together, irrespective of whether the front has a few thousand k's left just for peace of mind.

**NZsarge** · 1st March 2008, 09:10

Originally Posted by FROSTY

its about matching profiles rather than brands to be honest.

Indeed, most easily done by matching front and rear tyres.

**xwhatsit** · 1st March 2008, 13:55

Originally Posted by prvoke

its the right size and for $120 its about $70-$100 cheaper than a new battleax bt45. Im not far off getting my full license so i wont be sticking with the cbr for too much longer either.
think il just grab it then
thanks guys

Jesus, where are you buying them from? I got a BT45, fitted, and with a new tube for $135 last week.

Originally Posted by Blackbird

Frosty's spot on the money.

If you have different profiles, as you turn into a corner the mis-match will have the same effect as your tyres not being down a common centre line and this will have an impact on both handling and the rate of turn-in. I'm probably over-anal but I always change front and rear tyres together, irrespective of whether the front has a few thousand k's left just for peace of mind.

This interests me. I have a slightly worn Avon Roadrunner rear (it's done 18,000-20,000kms but my bike just doesn't wear out tyres), perhaps a touch square, but not much at all. Brand new BT45 front, only a few hundred kilometres on it yet. The bike just chucks itself into corners -- and stays there. It doesn't like sitting up straight. I take my hands off the bars, and I can flick it left and right with my knees and it'll stay turning whatever direction I go; if I want to keep it straight, however, that's a little bit of work.

Certainly makes your life easy in the twisty bits; makes for a hell of a nervous motorcycle, though.

**scumdog** · 1st March 2008, 14:04

Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat

Jesus, where are you buying them from? I got a BT45, fitted, and with a new tube for $135 last week.

This interests me. I have a slightly worn Avon Roadrunner rear (it's done 18,000-20,000kms but my bike just doesn't wear out tyres), perhaps a touch square, but not much at all. Brand new BT45 front, only a few hundred kilometres on it yet. The bike just chucks itself into corners -- and stays there. It doesn't like sitting up straight. I take my hands off the bars, and I can flick it left and right with my knees and it'll stay turning whatever direction I go; if I want to keep it straight, however, that's a little bit of work.

Certainly makes your life easy in the twisty bits; makes for a hell of a nervous motorcycle, though.

Funny how a new tyre makes a new bike eh!

Often wonder how I managed to get around thecorners at all with the old tyre when I hit the same corners on the new tyres and the bike just falls around the corners.

And as you said, it IS a tad 'nervous' for a while until you get use to it.

**Hitcher** · 2nd March 2008, 14:50

Originally Posted by FROSTY

its about matching profiles rather than brands to be honest.

And how does your average biker know/find out how to do this, other than by running matched pairs of tyres (i.e. same make and model)? Does this mean you should run a dual compound with a single compound, or a track with a sports tourer, as long as the *profile* is the same?

**Kickaha** · 2nd March 2008, 15:23

Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat

Jesus, where are you buying them from? I got a BT45, fitted, and with a new tube for $135 last week..

You probably have got skinny little 18 inch tyres compared to a low profile 17, big difference

I've quite often run mismatched tyres over the years without any problems, but on older bikes with narrow rims, I'm guessing later bikes with lower profile tyres might be a bit more sensitive to tyre selection and profile

**FROSTY:Me** · 2nd March 2008, 16:43

Originally Posted by Hitcher

And how does your average biker know/find out how to do this, other than by running matched pairs of tyres (i.e. same make and model)? Does this mean you should run a dual compound with a single compound, or a track with a sports tourer, as long as the *profile* is the same?

short version YES you COULD
The long version is a heck of a lot more complicated.
Re dual compound with single.
Your bike would be a good example --(i must say Im NOT quoting specifics here just random pulled examples)
Being a sports/tourer You might be wanting to run a Michellen med compound front but to get decent tyre life run a Metzler dual compound rear.
Or -actually Ok you have just recently fitted a ohlins shock. Maybee youv'e comprimised in the past on grip to get better tyre life .
Now you can look at a sportier tyre as the better suspenders mean better tyre life
Or maybee ya get a nail in your metzler front so go for a med compound Pirelli front.
This really is simplifying matters a heap --which is why a GOOD tyre man is your freind

**Blackbird** · 2nd March 2008, 18:10

Originally Posted by FROSTY

short version YES you COULD Your bike would be a good example --(i must say Im NOT quoting specifics here just random pulled examples)
Being a sports/tourer You might be wanting to run a Michellen med compound front but to get decent tyre life run a Metzler dual compound rear.

Indeed. I'm running a Storm rear with a Viper Sport front on my fat sprotsbike. I'd call it a sports tourer but that would provoke argument with Hitch.