I think you took all my stators but there's another rotor here. I'll pull it out and check the numbers on it. If it's different to what you've got you're welcome to it.
I think you took all my stators but there's another rotor here. I'll pull it out and check the numbers on it. If it's different to what you've got you're welcome to it.
It definitely has a very small leak between #1(was #3) cylinder and the water gallery so the engine is coming out again to see what the problem is and how to fix it permanently. The alternator rotor on the engine has 12 points inside where a screwdriver is attracted to it magnetically, versus only 6 for the original 2KR rotor and another that I have here. I need to use this rotor because it is the only one that will fit on this crankshaft so that leaves me looking for a late model 3LN stator that will work with this rotor. I need to have a look around to see what the difference is and how to identify the stator that I need.
Or as Grumph has suggested I might need to swap the new boss into the old rotor.
How did the numbers match what you're already using ?
Got it figured out. I need an 18-pole stator from a later FZR250. It looks like 18-pole stators are common on lots of bikes and were used on all the later 3LN model FZR250s.
The rotor i sent you mike, (with the broken crank stub still attached) was off the broken cranked FZR 3ln that Greg engine now has. cant remember if i sent you the stator as well if i didn't Greg will have the matching stator?
I took the cylinder block to Kevin's and tested it with flat steel. One sleeve is still proud of the top of the block and the other has dropped a very small amount and is probably flush. We didn't run any gauges over it but it is definite. The plan is to skim the tiniest amount off it like last time to make the whole thing flat including the sleeves and then take .001" off the alloy of the block. I may start putting it back together late tomorrow afternoon but I'll probably still be cleaning things tomorrow.
With the top end apart there are no obvious problems. The cam bearings look good and there was lots of oil in the head so the restrictor looks to be about right.
I just need to find an 18-pole stator and it will be all good.
Speedpro!
I read you build the tzr 250 chassis the mb100 engine. Before you race the mb5 chassis.
What is the Big advantage the tzr chassis, and what is the disadvantage the mb5 chassis.
Handlig, Weight, corner, lap times or other...?
Thanks the informations!
Hello Speedpro!
You bulid the tzr chassis the mb 100 engine, before you use stock mb5 chassis.
Whai is the advantage the tzr chassis vs mb5 chassis? Or disadvantage mb5 chassis?
weight, handling, laptimes, etc...
Thanks the informations!
As someone who used to race an ever evolving MB50, I'll offer an opinion. The MB50 frame and everything touching it is shit. It would be cheaper to find another donor chassis.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
F5 is correct. Look for the latest chassis possible with the best suspension and brakes. Weight is obviously an issue for a 50. If you are allowed and if you can find one, an old RS125 chassis is the ultimate. There have been huge advances in tyres and you will need to be able to fit new 17" tyres, and to fully utilize them you then need suspension and frame that is good enough, or at least closer than an MB50 chassis
My original chassis was a very modified RG50 chassis that handled like shit. The FZR chassis was so much better it's hard to describe. The downside was that it weighed lots more. Despite that I would have been faster everywhere on the better chassis. A couple of other small bikes I have ridden were the Steadman's Kawasaki 100s. Jim's bike in particular handled superbly and being a small farm bike chassis was reasonably light. Jim had swapped in 17" wheels and a decent front brake. He also did a lot of development on the suspension.
That is Honda RS125, in Europe the Aprilia might spring to mind but their RS125 is a totally different beast.
For giggles put the MB front wheel between your knees and twist the bars. Alarming isn't it?
But don't then become fixated on trying to fix that. The rear suspension will hold everything back even if you were silly enough to brace the frame, convert ally box swingarm, rework upper triple clamp, brace forks, Arrgh waste of time, as I found out.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
I'll endorse what Dave and speedpro have said. We ran what was basically a braced MB50 chassis and swingarm with CG125 front end powered by a good MB100.
I got it to the point where it was reasonably directionally stable on bumpy street circuits - but still a handful. Quite successful with an extremely good rider but hard work.
Another alternative chassis is the CBR150. Right size rims, good suspension - and they blow the OE engines comprehensively. i was offered one and was surprised to see how close to an RS125 it was. Might be a bit more common in some areas of the world.
Back on topic. Machined the block again today. I took a bit off the top of the sleeves to get them all level and flat only to find that the last 2 passes were only taking about 1/2 the red felt tip marker off that i had covered the surface with. I had the raise the block probably .0005" to get a clean cut right across the top of both sleeves. After that I raised the block another .001" and took material off only the aluminium which has left the sleeves just that little bit proud. After measuring it a bit better after work was finished it turns out the block has a taper of about .002" side to side. Next time, which hopefully won't be later this week, I might square it all up.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks