#6

[speedpro]

I have fitted a Gary Cunningham pre-worn rear tyre. No chicken strips on this tyre. I will of course be wearing out the middle bit that Gary has barely scrubbed in. I've also fitted original FZR250 gearing and hopefully will collect the new chain from the Restorace shop tomorrow. I've been going over the bike checking that it's OK and won't have problems at scrutineering. Turned out the back brake didn't work and nothing I did made any difference. It's almost like the hose is blocked. In the end I swapped the brake over from the MB powered FZR. One other thing I looked at was the rising rate of the fuel pressure regulator. It isn't 1:1 which it really needs to be so I'm on the hunt for a new one. Looks like good ones go for about $300, ouch! If at some point I make the decision to lean on the tune a bit, what I don't want is the fuel pressure to drop. On that topic, I was looking at the logs from the runs on the dyno. The current fuel pressure regulator does reduce the fuel pressure slightly at idle(3,000rpm) and then increases it as the throttle is opened and as manifold pressure increases. Despite this the engine is a bit rich at idle even with an injector pulsewidth below the minimum recommended. Then at about 18,000rpm and .8BAR boost the injector duty cycle hit 89% in at least one moment. Another good reason to get the fuel pressure increasing properly. Otherwise the duty cycle might end up being the limiting factor.

I'm still hopeful of getting on the ESE dyno before Sunday just to see what power it actually makes.

[speedpro]

This is the main fuel map in graphical mode. That chasm is at 9,000rpm. The map has been smoothed out a bit as AFR is not too critical for power and the engine is rich, running at about 11:1AFR or Lambda .8ish. Fuel will be aiding cooling with this much going in.

[husaberg]

I have fitted a Gary Cunningham pre-worn rear tyre. No chicken strips on this tyre. I will of course be wearing out the middle bit that Gary has barely scrubbed in. I've also fitted original FZR250 gearing and hopefully will collect the new chain from the Restorace shop tomorrow. I've been going over the bike checking that it's OK and won't have problems at scrutineering. Turned out the back brake didn't work and nothing I did made any difference. It's almost like the hose is blocked. In the end I swapped the brake over from the MB powered FZR. One other thing I looked at was the rising rate of the fuel pressure regulator. It isn't 1:1 which it really needs to be so I'm on the hunt for a new one. Looks like good ones go for about $300, ouch! If at some point I make the decision to lean on the tune a bit, what I don't want is the fuel pressure to drop. On that topic, I was looking at the logs from the runs on the dyno. The current fuel pressure regulator does reduce the fuel pressure slightly at idle(3,000rpm) and then increases it as the throttle is opened and as manifold pressure increases. Despite this the engine is a bit rich at idle even with an injector pulsewidth below the minimum recommended. Then at about 18,000rpm and .8BAR boost the injector duty cycle hit 89% in at least one moment. Another good reason to get the fuel pressure increasing properly. Otherwise the duty cycle might end up being the limiting factor.

I'm still hopeful of getting on the ESE dyno before Sunday just to see what power it actually makes.

turbogemini sell them..but with EFi why do you need a rising rate? of 1:1 i thought that was for carby engines
http://turbogemini.com/Blow%20Through%20FPR.htm
this one appears a bit flashererererer
https://turbobits.co.nz/products/ris...r-full-kit-fpr
oh the answer is in your post

[speedpro]

The ignition map is far more normal. Advance off boost is about 36-37° and once it starts making boost is backed off to about 20-25° at 180kPa manifold pressure which is as far as we've gone so far. The map reduces timing a lot more past there but no testing has been done over 180kPa. Not deliberately anyway.

[speedpro]

The new chain is installed. I tipped a bit of fuel in and fired it up to see if it was cold starting any easier. It isn't. I warmed it up pretty good and it wasn't quite idling if I released the throttle. On the dyno it liked about .5% throttle to idle happily. Then I fitted the $mega iridium spark plugs and fired it up again. Warm it fires up instantly and despite cooling down a bit while I changed the plugs it still idled happily without any throttle. The only change was the plugs so it looks like they may be a worthwhile investment.

I was thinking about how good a garage would be at HD. If anyone has hired a garage I would be happy to pay the usual fee and share. You'd have to be OK with a bucket in your garage and all the attention that buckets get

[speedpro]

Damned brakes.

I ended up replacing the rear brake master cylinder and caliper as nothing I tried would get the old one to work.

I decided to swap the front wheel from the MB/FZR as the slick is reasonably new. That wheel has the smaller disc on it and was using a 4-pot calliper with different size pistons. All good, swap the whole lot. The damned thing dragged real bad. I tried the caliper, but without the adaptor for the bigger disc, that was fitted originally but it turns out that the 2 discs have different offset. I thought back and sure enough the adaptor has about a 2mm offset to centre the caliper on the big disc. Another reason for swapping the wheel is that the adaptor is fabricated by bolting bits of aluminium together. I've been using it for years and there is absolutely no way it can fail in normal use. I just wanted to avoid even a hint of doubt at scrutineering by using the other caliper without any adaptor. I tried pumping the pistons out a fair way and cleaning them with a toothbrush and brakeclean. I could push the pistons back smoothly by hand but once assembled back on the bike and pumped up it still drags. The disc was already clean as I have previously scoured it with parts cleaner. On the MB/FZR it was normal with very minimal drag. What I'm thinking now is that there is some slight difference between the front ends and like the old CB150, when you change wheels the brakes drag a bit but free up after a bit of use. Fingers crossed. All up the brakes absorbed another day of messing around.

[F5 Dave]

Damned brakes.

I ended up replacing the rear brake master cylinder and caliper as nothing I tried would get the old one to work.

I decided to swap the front wheel from the MB/FZR as the slick is reasonably new. That wheel has the smaller disc on it and was using a 4-pot calliper with different size pistons. All good, swap the whole lot. The damned thing dragged real bad. I tried the caliper, but without the adaptor for the bigger disc, that was fitted originally but it turns out that the 2 discs have different offset. I thought back and sure enough the adaptor has about a 2mm offset to centre the caliper on the big disc. Another reason for swapping the wheel is that the adaptor is fabricated by bolting bits of aluminium together. I've been using it for years and there is absolutely no way it can fail in normal use. I just wanted to avoid even a hint of doubt at scrutineering by using the other caliper without any adaptor. I tried pumping the pistons out a fair way and cleaning them with a toothbrush and brakeclean. I could push the pistons back smoothly by hand but once assembled back on the bike and pumped up it still drags. The disc was already clean as I have previously scoured it with parts cleaner. On the MB/FZR it was normal with very minimal drag. What I'm thinking now is that there is some slight difference between the front ends and like the old CB150, when you change wheels the brakes drag a bit but free up after a bit of use. Fingers crossed. All up the brakes absorbed another day of messing around.

I often find the white oxidisation behind the seals needs to be carefully scraped out as it pushes on the seals. Or dross that sinks to the bottom of the system.

Twisted seals can cause issues too.
Basically dont try save time. Pop the pistons out.

Oh. Remove the front brake lever. That will tell you if it is closing off the return port in master cylinder. Aftermarket levers can do odd things.

I once had a brake line clog. That brought hours of confusion. Never seen that before.

[speedpro]

I sorted out a Nissin 2-pot caliper off an RS125. I needed to drill out the pin that locates the pads as it was frozen in. I then made a new stainless pin that is held in place with split pins. Took the seals out, cleaned everything, put it back together and connected a nice Brembo master cylinder I have lying around. I've used this setup on my FZR a while ago but swapped it out due to issues with the caliper which should be sorted out now. It seems to have bled out OK. I've left it hanging off the vice to let any air bubbles rise to the top, if any remain.

[speedpro]

Hampton Downs, what a mission. The motor was very lazy building boost. It got there but was slow which i put down to the setup of the boost control which ran off the throttle position. It did get there but typically at about 16,000rpm before it really got going. The rev limiter cut the engine dead at 18,000rpm which made it interesting at times. I had it overgeared as well and was only getting to max revs in 5th. It also was mid-gear exiting corners which was a combination of lack of boost and the hard rev limit. More boost earlier would have enabled a higher gear and a much better exit. The track is also a bit much for a bucket although if I get it all sorted how I would like, it won't be too bad. Looking at the logs the inlet temp was up around 100°C at times which is way too hot and would have resulted in timing being pulled out for safety, losing power.

So, I'm now on the lookout for an intercooler. I may have found a good example from the guy I have bought my scooter hot bits from. He does a turbo kit which includes an intercooler. He may be able to get me all the bits before they are welded together, and hopefully a box of tubing and hose as well.

The guy that tuned the bike for me sent a new setup after looking at the logs. The rev limit setup is completely different. I've loaded it, set the limit to 10,000rpm, and tried it in the garage. It's not a great test but did sound a lot softer on the limit at full throttle. The new setup also changes how the boost control is done. We know what duty cycle works to limit the boost where we want it at the moment, 180 kPa, and simply spanned the boost control table with MAP & RPM with cell duty cycle values to keep the wastegate closed until close to the desired boost. It should spool up heaps quicker. I know from my big bike that keeping the wastegate closed at lower boost levels results in quicker turbo spooling by less wastegate creep.

I also ride like shit. My other rides at home are my scooter and my son's DRZ400SM. Both have a riding position which suits my creaky body, unlike the FZR. The track is a lot faster than my first impression and I'm a slow learner so even by the last session I still wasn't up to speed. Coming into corners I sometimes needed to be in a lower gear, due to the sluggish boost, but this meant being pretty harsh with the downshifts entering the corner. The bike was making loud "bangs" on the upshifts, almost like a quickshifter. The tyres seemed pretty good. I swapped the good front off the MB/FZR and Gary gave me a good rear to use. All up I consider it a success despite the problems. Nearly everything has already been fixed. All that's needed is an intercooler and somewhere to put it, and a new neck for me.

[speedpro]

I dropped the kart starter back to Kev's place this morning. He gave me another one to use as long as I want. I just need to get a battery for it. In conversation I mentioned that I've been playing with brakes and was about to look at another caliper for the rear. After a bit of fossicking around he comes back with the caliper in the photo and says I can have it. It's one of the cutest calipers I've seen. The good thing is that it is solid mount due to having pistons each side which will make fabrication of the mounting a lot easier. The caliper I was going to use slides on pins. I will refurbish that one but will put it back on the RS.

This caliper can be mounted up either way on either side by switching the hydraulic fittings around. Nice and simple. I'll replace the manky bolt with a nice stainless pin with split pins each side. You have to wonder what they were thinking after making such a nice caliper

[speedpro]

The log showed that the inlet air temp was getting to around 100°C so I started looking for a suitable size intercooler. I remembered that the guy I got my scooter engine bits from sold a whole turbo kit for the scooters including a small intercooler. After a bit of back and forth his fabricator guy is going to put together a package including a yet to be assembled intercooler and a bunch of tubing and hose. I've sent a few photos of where everything will go, maybe, and they're going to make a few guesses about what I might need and send it. I'm also going to relocate the air filter from behind the engine to somewhere out front. I probably should relocate the turbo but that is more work than I can be bothered with which would also include replacing a few existing parts like the radiator. Not doing it will probably come back and bite me.

[husaberg]

Ford Courier/Mazda bounty 2.5 diesel 98-2006 is as cute as a button.

[speedpro]

I looked at those but they seemed a bit big.

The Turbosmart rising rate fuel pressure regulator arrived today. It's made a bit more solidly than my current regulator going by the weight.

[husaberg]

I looked at those but they seemed a bit big.

The Turbosmart rising rate fuel pressure regulator arrived today. It's made a bit more solidly than my current regulator going by the weight.

Size is relative, They sure look tiny compared to a 25DET.
The Daihatsu mira which was one of the engines that had your ihi rhb31 turbo as std had a even smalller one but not as easy to find in NZ

https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_2627/article

[speedpro]

Been machining a caliper mounting bracket. Cleaned up the disc as well as someone had worn the pads to the backing plates and garked it up pretty good. It's taking ages to do but I'm claiming it's because I don't have digital readouts on the mill. There's a little bit of weight loss to do yet but it's already lighter than the original. Weight loss is a bit of a joke given the all-up weight of the bike. It's really obvious the difference between the FZR and the MB/FZR when I'm moving them around in the garage.