#6

[Bert]

Pretty sure they would, I'll check. You need to buy 300 as a minimum but at $1 each it isn't really a problem. The same place also does MB crankshafts. I'm thinking of getting some. I'll let F5 be the first to test one as he is fond of Chinese conrods.

Try some rmx50 (hummm I mean RG50) barrels as well.
I was exchanging emails with on company that would send a sample of 50 units, try your luck....

[kel]

Try some rmx50 (hummm I mean RG50) barrels as well.

The RMX and SMX are totally bucket legal, dirty big T port and all. I'm at a complete loss as to why the aftermarket kit cylinders aren't fitted to every rg50. Yeah I know

[speedpro]

Finally got the FZR125 on the track. Took it to Mt Welly, unloaded, started it and warmed it up - all good. Put leathers on, "tried" to start it again with no luck. Found out how unfit I am - really really unfit. Finally just for something to do checked the battery, it was a bit low but fell over when the pump powered up going down to 7v or so. Fitted the other battery and away it went. Managed to get in a few laps revving it only to about 8-10,000rpm and it seemed OK(ish). After a reasonable number of laps it started trying to idle higher and higher finally revving to 10,000rpm. I suspect the battery voltage has sagged out on the 2nd battery causing the fuel pump to struggle making it run lean and fast. So another lesson learned - I need to sort out the generator and electrical system. Good thing is the new fuel surge tank works a treat. I only had to toggle the pump on/off three times and it was all purged and ready to go. One happy camper at the moment. Now just need the correct rotor and I can give it the revs.

I'm probably about 1/2 way to getting the turbo on it, at which time it will magically become a 100. I thought making a 2-stroke chamber was difficult to make nice but the turbo exhaust isn't far behind. Should look pretty cool when finished though nobody will know as it'll be wrapped.

[husaberg]

Mike Send ya Puller down
I will send it back with the other rotor..........
Still think that Aisin AMR300 you have would be a better bet for the 100cc F4 though.

[Pickle]

[QUOTE=speedpro;1130612046]Finally got the FZR125 on the track. Took it to Mt Welly, unloaded, started it and warmed it up - all good. Put leathers on, "tried" to start it again with no luck. Found out how unfit I am - really really unfit. ]

HaHa I seem to remember pushing one of your bikes for quite a long time before you noticed something was turned off - still owe me for that

[speedpro]

I've also just sorted a possible order for 10 MB100 crankshafts, tacked onto the end of a mass order. Cost + shipping + GST totals about NZ$50each. PM me if you are interested. The main order is due for completion in 15 days evidently so need a reply soonish.

[speedpro]

After I got the bike home I started it up and after a few seconds warming up it climbed to 5000rpm where the fuel cutout activated dropping the revs and so it cycled up and down. So I was right, more air was getting in, through the throttle body. When I took it out on the track initially it was all good but then the idle started creeping up to the point where it wanted to rev quite high. The fuel wasn't cutting out over 5000rpm with the throttle closed which should have been a clue. At home however after turning it off & on the 0% throttle position was reset so the fuel cutout worked. I checked over the throttle body with the engine running and found I could push one throttle closed which lowered revs. Further checking found the idle screw was loose. So I screwed it out until the idle was at the programmed 2000rpm and the ignition advance auto adjusted to the desired angle for the rpm with no correction to try and adjust the idle. With the idle too high it backs off the ignition advance to try and lower the rpm. This causes problems with response as it doesn't seem to advance super quickly when you crack the throttle. With the TB idle screw adjusted properly the ignition is advanced a bit and the initial throttle response is good.

I've hooked up the regulator with the generator and battery. It helps but it looks like I also have a problem with the generator output - it's pretty weak. The winding resistances are different so a bit of a clue.

[speedpro]

Mike Send ya Puller down
I will send it back with the other rotor..........

I just noticed on the rotors I have that there are two threads. The later model rotor with the taper which is too big has a thread pitch of probably 1.5mm. The rotor I want, and the rotor with too small a taper, has a fine pitch thread, probably only 1mm. A quick check of what's on the motor will tell you if it's even worth taking off.

I've actually been thinking of making a small cone from 1.5mm sheet and fitting the big taper rotor. Correct rotor is preferred choice though.

[husaberg]

I just noticed on the rotors I have that there are two threads. The later model rotor with the taper which is too big has a thread pitch of probably 1.5mm. The rotor I want, and the rotor with too small a taper, has a fine pitch thread, probably only 1mm. A quick check of what's on the motor will tell you if it's even worth taking off.

I've actually been thinking of making a small cone from 1.5mm sheet and fitting the big taper rotor. Correct rotor is preferred choice though.

Mmmm.i can take a pic and you can compare i guess?

Later ok looked at it it looks coarse to me. The outer thread that is.
I guess you want 2KR pretty sure both of the motors i have are 3LN.

[speedpro]

Tenant's left our rental 2 weeks ago after 6 years. New paint, new kitchen cabinets, paint and tools and crap filling my garage to the point where you can't get to the other side. Only got the oven door to fix so it closes that is taking up a bit of space on the bench and we'll be back to normal. Anyone looking for a 3 bedroom house with garage, carport, and storage in Massey feel free to PM me. Had a look at the turbo plumbing for the first time in over 2 weeks and Gaz rang for a bit of a chat tonight. Starting to feel normal again. Well, until I looked at the VISA account anyway.

The guy who bought the Yamaha FZR bits in Hamilton lives out this way and I'll be dropping by shortly to check if he has a rotor that will do the job. He listed a FZR bottom end with a rotor but unsure if it's what I want.

[speedpro]

Found a different rotor and hoping like hell it's "the one". I couldn't get it off the crankshaft so had to buy the whole bottom end. Will bring it home tomorrow and go to work on it.

[F5 Dave]

In for a penny.

[speedpro]

Rotor removed with much effort, but without flames, and safely installed on the motor. I've fired it up in the back yard and it revs good though it hesitates real bad at 7-9,000rpm with 1/2 throttle. Once over 10,000rpm it blips sharply and sounds pretty good. I haven't been too hard on it but it seems to cut at 16,000rpm which is the highest value able to be defined in the tables for the ECU. Hopefully I'll be able to put it on the dyno soon and give it a proper test. I asked specifically about the rpm limit before I purchased the system so will be hopping if it's a problem.

[speedpro]

Some minor progress with the turbo plumbing. The turbo doesn't quite sit right but easily fixed as one more weld to go. Need to start on the intake plenum. I'm not really sure what I'm doing with this but figured a plenum was needed to smooth out exhaust pulses but mainly to even up the back pressure on each cylinder. The intake will have a similar problem but fluctuating pressure. The cylinders have matching intake and exhaust cycles separated by 180 crank degrees and then a big pause before the next cycle.

[speedpro]

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