#6

[F5 Dave]

The Duzall really needs a cap on it especially if you store it up high.

[Grumph]

The Duzall really needs a cap on it especially if you store it up high.

The little rubber caps that come on battery breathers make excellent caps for that.

[F5 Dave]

I've managed to keep mine but the bugger does try to escape on a semi regular basis.

[husaberg]

The bike is back together and as far as I can tell it's ready to run. The printed velocity stacks look the part. I'm leaving the turbo off. Over the last couple of days I've been going back over the ECU software. It should just be a matter of calibrating the triggers and firing it up. Looking at "Quick Tune" today and it shouldn't be too hard to get it sorted initially.

Everytime i see this engine especially now with the bellmouths i think of this one

[Grumph]

Everytime i see this engine especially now with the bellmouths i think of this one

Well, scale your imagination down to about half size. The cut engines are tiny.

[husaberg]

Well, scale your imagination down to about half size. The cut engines are tiny.

I am pretty sure i saw yours before and after it was cut....

150 vs 750
I would same although the casings were huge and heavy 40lb the cozzy was smaller than it looks, about the size of a CB350 but was 200Lb and had 75lb of spinning mass.

What happen re your carbs

[speedpro]

Today with help from Rob at ESE I managed to get the engine running. I checked the trigger calibration and found it was still perfect(ish) despite the new cam trigger at some unknown new position. Obviously I don't understand how that works. Put the fuel pump fuse in, turned on injection, 3rd gear, pressed the button and away it went. Everything was looking good apart from the fuel which wasn't totally unexpected. I will need to go over the fuel pressure regulator as it didn't adjust at ESE but was fine when I got home. We didn't do any hard runs, just ran it through the gears using middling revs, and it was reasonably sweet. with the velocity stacks the intake is very noisy now. We ended the day with a little problem. When I was using a bit of throttle Rob was seeing water being blown out of the overflow bottle. The amount of water was dependent on throttle so I'll check compression but will probably have to remove the head and try to seal it better. All up I'm pretty happy with how it went.

[speedpro]

Borrowed this tool from friend Kevin to pressurise each cylinder. Waaaaaay flasher than needed but worked a treat. Cylinder #1(was #3) blows bubbles out of the radiator when pressurised. It won't be hard to fix and there are a few options.

[speedpro]

Well, that got tricky real quick. The motor has been taken apart down to the crankcases. Everything looks OK apart from the head gasket issue. I took the cylinders over to Kevin's workshop and we measured it on the granite table. The cylinder has a slight twist, about .003" and will rock if diagonally opposite corners are pressed. The sleeves are also about .001" below the surface of the alloy block. With the thickness of the gasket sealant around the outside that leaves plenty of clearance for a failure of the seal around each bore. The plan for tomorrow is to mount the cylinder on 3 points with the base up, with only sufficient force to hold it down but not to distort it. Then take just enough off the base of the alloy block to make it flat. Once it's flat the block can be flipped over and clamped down on parallels and using a small cutter mow a bit off the top to make it flat. Once it's flat I'll probably take about .001" off the alloy block leaving the sleeves proud. I'm not going to check how square the bores are to the top and bottom surfaces. I'd check the head as well but am going to risk it rather than open another can of worms. Kev has a brand new 6mm cutter I'm allowed to use. It should come out real nice.

[F5 Dave]

Bit of Selleys All Clear will fix it.

[Grumph]

The cut barrels have no torsional stiffness whatsoever. Mine got decked once the new liners were in. Clamped down using the base gasket area as a datum and decked parallel to that. Liners are flush, copper head gasket - painted - and so far it's holding.
Over the years, working on FZR's of all sizes, i've noted the importance of lubing the head nuts when torquing them down. Generally, they're marginal for size in the application and any reduction in tightening torque shows as a gasket leak. 400's are particularly prone to this.

[speedpro]

I did think of bolting the cylinder down on the base gasket surface and decking it. Doing this worked on the Z1 without a problem. All the fasteners are lubed prior to assembly. If you have the torque setting for the head studs that would be useful. I took them down to 25nM last time but it seemed a bit light. 25 is the recommended torque for 8mm fasteners according to the spec sheet with the torque wrench.

[Grumph]

i went from memory. the 8mm head studs on the 400's are spec'd at 18 ft/lb. They'll take 20 ft/lb no probs - so that's what I did the cut 250 to.

[speedpro]

I only decked the top of the cylinder. I looked back at my own experience with a slightly twisted Z1 block and how that was clamped to a 40mm thick slab of steel to keep it flat while machining. Well that was the idea but the engine reconditioners knew better and took it off before boring with the result that the bores weren't square to the crank once it was all bolted back together. Greg also commented about his experience with these cylinders. I clamped it down as per the photo. I took a very small initial cut of maybe only .002" and that resulted in a very even cut over the whole surface with possibly a smidge lighter cut on the top of the sleeves. After that I made another cut of just the aluminium. I raised the knee less than 1 graduation(.001") which resulted in the sleeves being proud by .02mm. It should work perfectly.

[speedpro]

Bike is back together and fired up 2nd push down the drive. Ran it for a while warming it up and it stuttered to a stop. I toggled the power but the pump didn't build fuel pressure which I thought was odd. I topped up the fuel and tried again and it was OK. Another push down the drive and it was away. After another period it stuttered to a stop again. I suspect the fuel pump but need to look into it a bit further.
Once it was warmed up I did give it a couple of good blips. It pulls 14,000 quickly and the log file shows clean curves. Hopefully once the fuel issue is fixed and it's tuned it will rev freely and make some power.