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  1. #976
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    5th January 2007 - 14:58
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    motocompo
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    What are the turbo specs & what was it lifted from?
    I put an IHI RHB51 off a Honda City on a R100rs BMW many years ago.

  2. #977
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    bucket FZR/MB100
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    Henderson, Waitakere
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    RHB51? - monster turbo.

    This one is an IHI RHB31A from a Suzuki Cappucino, I think. I've got a supercharger from an aftermarket kit for one as well

  3. #978
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    After much pondering of my pile of bits I've decided to use the 2KR bottom crankcase half as it is already modified, a 3LN top crankcase half as it has the underskirt oilers, and probably a piece of 3LN crank to replace the 2KR piece. I was surprised how much was different between the 2 crankshaft models, see photo below. Measuring the crank journals it is interesting the differences between crankshafts. Each crankshaft has more or less the same diameter journals but between cranks it varies a bit. One crank big end journal also seem so have a taper across it's width.
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  4. #979
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Are you going to keep the extra piece of crank past the camchain sprocket ?

    I did a lot of hand finishing of oil gallery holes on my crank. The angled drillings on the mains in particular need radiusing - badly.
    This was then finished up with a linish by a reconditioner mate.

    Good to see some decisions being made - that's always the hard bit, LOL.
    Mine's on the point of being ridden.

  5. #980
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    More measuring and test fitting been going on. I have to use matched top & bottom crankcase halves. Odd pairs cause the crank to bind when the bolts are torqued up.
    I've measured a pile of rods. There is a bit of variation between models of rod. Rods with a C on them are all very similar length. Those with a D the same, and so on. Cs, Ds, and others are all slightly different lengths. I will be using a new pair or rods as the old ones were 2KR short rods combined with 2KR pistons.
    I've also measured every piston I have. I can't see identifying marks on the pistons but slight differences in the finish of the castings suggest different batches. Again, pistons within a batch are all very similar size, and the different batches are slightly different.
    I've decided to be lazy and simply replace the damaged sleeve, maybe both, and just need to measure the sleeves to find a pair that match pistons I decide to use. I've got a telescopic gauge to measure the bores which I then measure with the micrometer. I can be reasonably consistent with the measurements but I'm not satisfied just yet. I might just go with a "go/no-go" type system first and then actually measure the smaller bores. Interestingly it doesn't look like there is much wear in the bores/pistons.
    I have also cleaned the cylinder heads to help with checking them out. I just hose them afterwards and then blow the majority of the water off using a duster gun. Very interesting how many bubbles come form the valves when blowing air up the ports.

    After going over so many parts with a micrometer I can see how people are able to build a better engine just using standard parts.

    I received LiPo batteries from China month or so back and the fancy charger a few weeks back. I've cycled the batteries a few times like they suggest and the batteries all picked up capacity after cycling. I got 2 types, 3 cell(3S) and 4 cell(4S). The 3S batteries are rated at 11.1V and the 4S batteries are rated at 14.8V. Both are higher voltage when charged and the 11.1 is over 12V so perfect for a bucket. The 4S might be a bit high voltage so I might put a diode or two in series and see. Each cell in each battery is rated at 3.7V but is fully charged at 4.2V.

    I also have an original powerblade lithium battery. The charger knows about these LiFe batteries and happily charged it to the recommended voltage and also discharged it to the minimum voltage. It monitors power applied which was a smidge over 2200mAH. With this charger you can charge/discharge batteries to the optimum voltage for storage, so they are now all stacked on the shelf at the recommended voltage for each battery. For $23 the charger seems to cover every common option, NiMH, Pb, Li(3 types), and another one I don't recall.

  6. #981
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Happy times in the garage this arvo. Working on putting a couple of good sleeves into the modified cylinder block. I thought it was interesting that after heating and removing the sleeves from the original blocks that they were a small amount larger in the bore. The first 2 I removed were both approx 47.986-8mm diameter in the block. I measured them multiple times over a couple of days while I was deciding what I was doing. Once removed they both measured 48.020 approx. i pulled a 3rd one as well and it increased in size a similar amount. I have dropped 2 of them into the modified block but the sleeves have maintained the larger size. I might go through the heating cycle I used to remove the sleeves but not remove them from the spare blocks to see if the measured size changes.
    I gave the block a really good clean with Handy Andy and a brillo pad and cleaned the sleeves inside and out to make sure there was nothing to interfere with fitting them and also looking for damage. I don't know how many miles the engines have done but there is no bore wear. I have a number of pistons that measure approx 47.952mm. These combined with the installed sleeves will result in piston clearance a bit over the supposed service limit of .06mm. The data I have says the bore service limit is 48.1mm which would mean a huge piston clearance.
    The sleeves I am using are from a 3LN block. The top lip is fractionally smaller than the lip on the 2KR sleeves so the sleeves sit slightly below the block deck. Depends how long this lockdown lasts I could end up filing it.
    If possible I'll get a couple of new orings for the bottom of the block around the sleeves. The old ones have assumed a flat inside and outside profile and I would think are providing a bit less reliable seal. Or I'll sit them in a fillet of high temp red in the groove.
    The crankshaft might get hacksawed tomorrow. I checked the oil gallery drillings on the crank after Grumph said something about them in his Sensible Twin page. The holes have ridiculously sharp edges. Obviously it hasn't had a detrimental effect, but it is a bit offensive.
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  7. #982
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    I compared the standard lobe centres versus what Franklin Cams suggested in 2000 after measuring the cams on their machine. Franklin's suggestion was to retard the intake 7degrees and the exhaust advanced 3 degrees compared to what I now know is standard. Pretty good suggested timings considering that at the time I had no idea where they should be

  8. #983
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Another busy afternoon in the garage. The crankshaft has been cut and cleaned up. Took to it with the hacksaw and cleaned it up using the angle grinder with a flap disk. It almost seemed a crime to cut the crankshaft in half.
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  9. #984
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Useful to have in the garage
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  10. #985
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Last time I put liners in that were too thin at the lip, I made up brass spacers which left the liner slightly proud of the block.
    They were then surface ground back. Honda CBX550 liners in Suzuki Impulse for what seemed like good reasons at the time....

    I'd radius the oil holes on the crank. Easy enough with the 10mm ball grinding tip which comes in the cheap assortment with a die grinder.
    It hasn't happened as std - but with load on it under boost.....
    I've seen too many fucked cranks from this cause, I just do it anyway.

    O rins on the bottom of the barrel. Have a look at what the barrel sits on - they're against unsupported gasket mainly.
    I left mine out as there's a 4mm plate under my barrel.

  11. #986
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    There was just the smallest amount of evidence that something had gone down the outside of the sleeves. It cleaned off with the brillo pad.

    I think when new, the o-rings were a pretty tight fit. The tight fit held them in place and made the seal.

    I had a good look at the oil holes on the crank. At the hole where oil enters the crank the edges are not radiused or chamfered at all. The exit holes to the bearings have a small angled cut. I started grinding the very end hole that feeds oil in and then stopped after thinking about it a bit. I think on the input holes having a chamfer is actually a disadvantage as it tends to take oil out of the hole. I doubt I'll do any more more grinding on the crankshaft

  12. #987
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    Disagree with your theory re the feed holes in main bearing journals. The initial entry volume is arrived at by pressure in the hydrostatic film - and orifice size.
    A nicely radiused entry has a slightly larger area and less resistance to flow.
    Once the oil is in, cetrifugal force tends to pump it to the bigend.

    I seldom have to radius crank holes now as the lesson has been learned and the factories are doing it properly - except for the odd Honda....
    Certainly all the late sports bike cranks are fully radiused.

  13. #988
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Another great day for working/playing in the garage. Made three grub screws to block the cranhshaft galleries in the unused side. The end one is 8mm as that hole was a size bigger than the other 2. Simple bit of threaded bolt with a cross cut in the end. Screwed them in with loctite, splayed the cross with a punch and then centre punched the alloy into the ends of the slots. They aren't going anywhere. It's getting to the point where I might give cutting the cylinder head a go. If there are no further posts over the weekend it means it didn't go well.
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  14. #989
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    .

    Speedpro, I like your work.

    I have found it is amazingly easy to make good square cuts in alloy castings with a common old wood working drop saw. Use a blade with as many teeth as possible. For safety's sake its probably best to clamp the work piece but I was able to just steady it by hand, just like you would if it was a piece of wood you were cutting. The wood saw blade cut the alloy casting real easily without catching.

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  15. #990
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .

    Speedpro, I like your work.

    I have found it is amazingly easy to make good square cuts in alloy castings with a common old wood working drop saw. Use a blade with as many teeth as possible. For safety's sake its probably best to clamp the work piece but I was able to just steady it by hand, just like you would if it was a piece of wood you were cutting. The wood saw blade cut the alloy casting real easily without catching.

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    Do you not reverse the teeth direction Rob?
    we always used to for Thick alloy sheet, make a hell of a scream though?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

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