New problem: electrics turning off at random intervals

[Coyote]

Filter to the front of a queue at the lights. Put it in neutral and fold my arms waiting for the other lights to turn amber. Sit there for about 10 seconds, then the bike turns off. Hit the start button, nothing happening. Turn ignition on and off, hit start, nothing happening. Killswitch off and on, go to reserve, hit start, nothing. I thought "Fuck" and wheel the bike over the the traffic island. Hit start, it starts going. I thought "Fuck". Eventually filter back into traffic.

Next set of lights, move to the front. Lights are about to turn green. It dies. Hit start, nothing. Lights go green and cars fly past. Hit start and it goes, shorter gap than last time. Luckily the bike was quick enough to merge back into the traffic.

What the hell?

Note: it has a new battery.


Also, low beams still don't work, and the neutral light. Oil light still goes on at start up, just waiting for that to die just before the engine seizes...

[xwhatsit]

Check the battery terminals. If you just put a new battery in, maybe they worked loose. I had a loose terminal once, it would run OK over a few thousand RPM, but would die under that. Of course, then, if I had a battery and electric start then there would be no lights and I wouldn't be able to use the starter.

[XRKID]

Yer check the connectors inside the ignition key, as the bike gets turned on and off over time they wear out and start to fail @ random intervalls like yours. another problem could be a loose fuse (thinking the 30amp main).

[Coyote]

Check the battery terminals. If you just put a new battery in, maybe they worked loose. I had a loose terminal once, it would run OK over a few thousand RPM, but would die under that. Of course, then, if I had a battery and electric start then there would be no lights and I wouldn't be able to use the starter.

Checked the battery during smoko, it was fine.

Yer check the connectors inside the ignition key, as the bike gets turned on and off over time they wear out and start to fail @ random intervalls like yours. another problem could be a loose fuse (thinking the 30amp main).

Argh, that was the first thing I had to spend on the bike: a new ignition barrel. That should be fine!

Where's the main fuse? In the fuse box underneath the pillion seat?


The bike didn't present a problem today. Just the usual shaky braking and hole in exhaust slowing it down.

[more_fasterer]

Check all dem fuses in the fusebox anyway.

The main fuse is to the right of the battery, under a red cover / plug. Check the connections to that unit are all tight, and the other end of the battery negative wire too.

Also try putting a little CRC in your igntion barrel, and checking the loom plugs on either side of the engine - particularly the red one on the right hand side.

[idb]

Ya gotta love sporadic electrical faults.
My old 750/4 would suddenly start running on two cylinders at any odd time, it happened to me most embarrassingly as I was level with the drivers's door on a passing manoeuvre, I had to drop back, then all of a sudden the other two cylinders fired up again and I had another go...exactly the same thing happened.
Thank god for full face helmets!!
It turned out to be dry joint on the connection from the coil primary to the points and took me months to track down.

Anyway, they're bloody hard to find if it only happens now and then.
If everything dies such as lights, starter, dash lights, park light, fuel pump then that limits the possibilities to the battery, the battery terminals and the circuit from the battery to the ignition switch and the ignition switch itself. And possibly but unlikely the negative connection onto the frame.
I suggest that you work your way carefully along that circuit, disconnecting, cleaning up and re-connecting everything and fixing everything that looks remotely dodgy.

[Coyote]

Check all dem fuses in the fusebox anyway.

The main fuse is to the right of the battery, under a red cover / plug. Check the connections to that unit are all tight, and the other end of the battery negative wire too.

Also try putting a little CRC in your igntion barrel, and checking the loom plugs on either side of the engine - particularly the red one on the right hand side.

Will do.

Ya gotta love sporadic electrical faults.
My old 750/4 would suddenly start running on two cylinders at any odd time, it happened to me most embarrassingly as I was level with the drivers's door on a passing manoeuvre, I had to drop back, then all of a sudden the other two cylinders fired up again and I had another go...exactly the same thing happened.
Thank god for full face helmets!!
It turned out to be dry joint on the connection from the coil primary to the points and took me months to track down.

Anyway, they're bloody hard to find if it only happens now and then.
If everything dies such as lights, starter, dash lights, park light, fuel pump then that limits the possibilities to the battery, the battery terminals and the circuit from the battery to the ignition switch and the ignition switch itself. And possibly but unlikely the negative connection onto the frame.
I suggest that you work your way carefully along that circuit, disconnecting, cleaning up and re-connecting everything and fixing everything that looks remotely dodgy.

The second time it happened it looked like I had stalled at the lights

Don't think I'll be able to do that until I have another vehicle and the VFR can sit in the garage. I want to get a scooter once I get another job (had to quit the last one so I could go to Weltec).

[idb]

Don't think I'll be able to do that until I have another vehicle and the VFR can sit in the garage. I want to get a scooter once I get another job (had to quit the last one so I could go to Weltec).

It isn't a long circuit, once you have the fairings off give yourself an hour to go over everything, unplugging and cleaning as you go.
It should just be from the battery to the fuse to the ignition switch.
If you decide to be really thorough and dismantle the ignition then that'll take a bit longer (and a bit more care, it's definitely a workbench job).

[westie]

Try the electrical connector under and infront of the right side foot peg bracket. It goes into the engine or gearbox.
Mine was loose and would sometimes kill the engine and sometimes not start at all.. It just needed a little bit of with the pliers.

[old git]

The next time it stops just pull the hose off the fuel tap and walk away----- problem solved in a FLASH.......
or i'll risk giving you ten bucks for it!!!!

[surfer]

Next time it happens see if the lights work or any of the other electrics. This will help you isolate the problem.

In the meantime take the battery connections off and give the terminals a damm good clean. Make sure you do them back up nice and tight. There should be no grease or crap on them between the connections and the terminal.

Then check the earth connection and make sure that that is free of rust/crap where it connects to the frame.

[Steam]

What the hell?

I 'fort you high-posting types were all motorsickle problem geniuses? Like Motu.

[Coyote]

I 'fort you high-posting types were all motorsickle problem geniuses? Like Motu.

Most of their post counts are so high since I post so many questions

Plus I've been here 4 years now... thought I would've wised up by now huh?

[koba]

CRC aint the best for the lock barrel.
Use graphite.
If you use CRC you have to keep onto it, graphite shouldn't need attention again for ages. once you use crc it fucks it up for using grahite.

Not 100% on that but its what Ive been told, ring bevereges to confirm and prob to get graphite.
They sponsored the hillclimb so It would be good 2 talk to them (Lower Hutt branch, I think)

[idb]

Have ya fixed it yet?