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Thread: Another problem thread... (RG150 problem)

  1. #46
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    1st May 2006 - 11:41
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    1987 GSXR750
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    Christchurch
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    The RG's firstly redline at 12.5 and power will start topping out just before that.

    Secondly you CAN run them at lowish revs and expect them not to foul. Using TTS anyhow. I can wobble my way to work at 5k rpm if i wanted day in day out it's just no fun.

    For cruising 7-8k rpm is good the valves should open about 8.100rpm. I've had surging on my RG highway riding, it's just a flatspot in the power you happen to hit when doing 100km/hr (which is 120 on the speedo btw, they're out by *heaps*).

    My plug fouled on me twice in 2 days when I wasn't using TTS oil, and it has never fouled on me in 2 years while using it.

    When it fouls it'll just run like a bag of crap, at least mine would from idle and it might get off the line just to start droning and roll to a halt stalled - maybe 10 kicks later it'll go, more likely than not you'll need another plug.

    But the surging, especially as you close throttle definitely sounds fuel related. Check lines, tap and carb thoroughly mate. Thats exactly what an RG will do before running outta gas. Oh yeah, if you're idling just as its running out of gas the revs will climb as it leans out I guess. All I know is they rise before shitting out, another way to tell if you're at the lights and suspect gas is short.

    Get a temp gauge, the ones on the bike won't ever see their way past halfway I reckon. The slimline ones are good, easy to mount and give you a reliable baseline - also lets you know when the bikes properly warm unlike estimating with the silly factory gauge or time.

  2. #47
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    26th June 2005 - 21:11
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    Wow, some people really have no idea about modern(ish) 2 strokes...

    First off, EVERYTHING Oyster has said, is correct. That man knows RG's better than ANY one else here does.

    Secondly, before trying to diagnose a problem, make sure you have at least a half full tank of fuel.. amount of times people have asked me too check out their bikes thinking something is wrong, and it just turns out to be running out of fuel....

    From your original post, it sounds like you just fouled a plug. get a NGK BR8 (I think) They're the cheap ones. Don't waste your money on an iridium plug on these...

    Reason for fouling, if it's anythink like my old KRR150 (I have a RG now) I had to blank off half my radiator to get the temp up to 50 degrees.. which is still cooooold. 55-60 degrees would be a nice operating temp.

    Power valves also play havc in these bikes, but there are a few options as to what you can do about them!

    Good luck!


  3. #48
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    10th June 2005 - 19:24
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    Can you pick up the temp gauges from dick smith or similar? how much? been thinking about one for the race bike.

    Sketchy Racer is right with the RG's petrol tanks, they are deceptively shallow and may look like they have lots of fuel but are rather rather empty on the inside

    My RG is running a NGK BR9EIX (Thats the iridium one) But i am constantly Raping it which means it goes fine

  4. #49
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    16th November 2006 - 23:46
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    http://zballantine.com/RG150/

    Ta da!!!! (Whole RG manual minus the carb section what is ironic isn't it!)

    Check ya Fuel Line.

  5. #50
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    17th March 2008 - 20:01
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    ok, i got a new fuel line and filter (much better flow than origonal) Ill fill it when i have time and money, and get a new spark plug soon, also when i have extra money. My mates RG has only one or two sections of the radiator open, and his temp gauge works. Is it the temp guage failing, or is the bike not actually warming up, due to thremostat probs? All my radiator is open btw.

    i knew i should of gotta FXR...haha!

    Oh yea, thats where i got my manual...most of it. AARGG!

  6. #51
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    10th June 2005 - 19:24
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    If you want your temp gauge to work, assuming its getting warm enough to give a reading you should make sure you have a goood bettery in it, it'll make the whole dash and engine run better

  7. #52
    Join Date
    1st May 2006 - 11:41
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    Yeah if the batteries a dud you can get sporadic powervalve actuation and tachometer crazyness too.

    I've never had to cover up the radiator at all on my RG, just give it time to warm up a bit or ride it like a nana til its up to temp.

    DSE did sell the slimline thermometers but I tried to get one for my old gsxr and they reckoned stopped making 'em. I was at Oysters the other day and spied a few hanging up on the wall in packets.

    Give him a PM if you can't find one, sure he could sort you

    and TCN, RG's are way more fun to wring out than silly FXR's! Just put decent synth oil in the thing whatever you do, sure it costs - but so does a seize.


    I've seen the graveyard of parts from RG's at oysters place, has a bit of everything. Some rods are mashed that they're barely identifiable as a rod. Others with heavily ovaled big ends etc. Change the trans fluid to something decent every once in a while too.

  8. #53
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    1st June 2006 - 14:12
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    Yep, I missed a few

    I forgot a few regular items, good to see Sketchy and Frootloops picked them up
    1) Run PLENTY of fuel. When switched to "ON" they will run out of fuel when it looks like there's heaps in there. Even worse in racing when surging comes into the equation. (the loop at Teretonga is a classic, it can take half a tank full and put it on the wrong side away from the tap, while on half throttle the carb is still screamin for it!)
    2) TTS is a must
    3) Plenty of volts in the battery
    4) The wee dick Smith gauge should read 54deg, 90% of the time

  9. #54
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    17th March 2008 - 20:01
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    Hey guys, thanks for the help.

    Well, its pissing down here so i havnt done anything yet haha. The batteries fine, i got a new one when i bought it. The guy we bought it off gave us a full tank of oil, and its blue in colour. Ive got a bottle of Fuchs Silkoline 2T Comp Plus oil, to put in when its empty. Something like that.
    Where should the temp recording sensor be put? Or is it just a gauge replacement?

  10. #55
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    28th October 2007 - 16:20
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    On the powervalve box from memory. But wiser people might have a better place for it.

    I think there seriously needs to be a sticky thread for the rg and it's characteristics.

  11. #56
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    17th November 2006 - 21:44
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    i have a br9iex i tryed the 8 and it was better around town more midrange but crap up top so went back to the 9 .tts is good stuff bike will happily tootle along at 4k through traffic

  12. #57
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    30th May 2003 - 21:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    .... Check plug type for your model and use. A cooler plug may be needed for round town use. ....
    Quite a range of advise in this thread, but this above bit about cooler plugs I don't agree with.

    I would use a cooler plug when racing. The hot engine keeps the plug clean, and the cooler plug helps to keep the top of piston cooler (so they say, never stuck my finger in there myself to check).

    One might use a Hotter plug to putt around town. Slow going on a two stroke can (in some cases) cause carbon buildup on the plug tip, thus affecting the spark. the hotter plug would keep this carbon/oil burnt off, BUT, in a higher rev/heat situation can melt a hole in the top of your piston. (Not a good look).

    My take on the cutting out problem is also the fuel vent.
    Blocked vent creates a vacuum in the fuel tank, not allowing the fuel to flow fast enough to carb. Try riding (carefully*) with the fuel cap open to prove or disprove this theory.


    Quote Originally Posted by TCN View Post
    it hasnt happened when im on the open road though. grrr, ill check that tomorow.
    oh yea, another thing is that you can feel the bike surgeing while doing 100kph. you feel it accelerating then stop, then accelerate, etc. Its hard to notice, but it always does this. any ideas?
    Surging: Possibly running lean due to fuel not flowing properly from the tank?

    Is this problem more evident when the fuel tank is full?
    The less 'air' space in the tank means it vacuums quicker, thus creating the problem more often.

    Racey

    * Warning: riding with fuel cap open is classed as 'Risky' behavior, and not to be encouraged on a daily bases.

  13. #58
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    10th June 2005 - 19:24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racey Rider View Post
    [COLOR="Blue"]Quite a range of advise in this thread, but this above bit about cooler plugs I don't agree with.

    I would use a cooler plug when racing. The hot engine keeps the plug clean, and the cooler plug helps to keep the top of piston cooler (so they say, never stuck my finger in there myself to check).

    One might use a Hotter plug to putt around town. Slow going on a two stroke can (in some cases) cause carbon buildup on the plug tip, thus affecting the spark. the hotter plug would keep this carbon/oil burnt off, BUT, in a higher rev/heat situation can melt a hole in the top of your piston. (Not a good look).

    I agree with the cooler plug for racing conditions, this is what i'm running in my RG which i am only riding on the track. Wasp27's keeping an eye on how my engines running for me and he knows a thing or two about performance engines.

  14. #59
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    26th June 2005 - 21:11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racey Rider
    Surging: Possibly running lean due to fuel not flowing properly from the tank?
    The RG's surge at about 100kph (indicated 120). This is because the motor sits in the power range where the power valves are just opening and if they open and your not wringing it's neck, the bike slows down till the close again, then it accelerates again, they start opening...... So on so on.


  15. #60
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    21st April 2006 - 10:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDR2 View Post
    On the powervalve box from memory. But wiser people might have a better place for it.

    I think there seriously needs to be a sticky thread for the rg and it's characteristics.
    Make one and ill stick it up, the RG150 threads are more than common so a place for a bunch of info would be good

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