New Ninja not running too good

[Biggles08]

That'd be awesome if you don't mind.

Hi Mate,

Have you considered carb icing? I had a ZX9R that misbehaved terribly in the cold damp air and sounded like a v-twin as opposed to a 4 cyl bike. It may be forming ice on the carb butterflies and causing some issues. Probably not but thought I would throw in my 2c as well.

Realistically though, I would be very very firm with the guys you bought it off cause quite frankly the service you have had regarding the problem thus far sounds average to say the least...its a fucking brand new bike??? Its their problem ...not yours!

[CookMySock]

The proper way to use a choke, is to go full-choke first, crack the throttle, and start it, wait 2-3 seconds to the revs to build and stablise, and then slowly slowly back the choke off until you get maximum rpm, then back it off ever so slightly more until the revs JUST begin to drop, then leave it there to warm up. You CAN leave the choke at this setting and ride off slowly, but within 1km or less it should be fully off. Never leave it running at full choke - you will foul the engine.

An extended warm up isn't really necessary, unless it makes you feel better doing it.

Never power up hard under full choke.

DB

[Disco Dan]

Sounds like a vent is blocked to me, if you open the filler cap then close it again does it run ok again?

(did not read the middle pages, just first and last lol)

[Sollyboy]

Shouldn't affect warranty, apart from the first service I'm doing my own services and the dealer is happy.

Yeah theyll be happy right up to the point where you make a claim, dont fall for that bullshit

[Ripperjon]

The proper way to use a choke, is to go full-choke first, crack the throttle, and start it, wait 2-3 seconds to the revs to build and stablise, and then slowly slowly back the choke off until you get maximum rpm, then back it off ever so slightly more until the revs JUST begin to drop, then leave it there to warm up. You CAN leave the choke at this setting and ride off slowly, but within 1km or less it should be fully off. Never leave it running at full choke - you will foul the engine.

An extended warm up isn't really necessary, unless it makes you feel better doing it.
DB

Yeah, this is what i've been doing, the revs will build as it warms, i back off the choke keeping it under but near 2500rpm (as it recommends in the manual), but it takes nearly 10 minutes before i can take the choke fully off without it spluttering, and occasionally stalling entirely.

I've tried riding with the choke partially on but i still get the delayed or even negated response from the throttle which is a bit gnarly pulling out onto the main road. So, for me, at the moment, the extended warmup is a bit of a necessity.

I don't think carb icing is the problem as it happens after work too when the bike is out in the sun. The engine gets cold but not enough to get icey carbs.

regarding what DiscoDan said about a blocked vent and opening the filler cap. How does that work?


P.S. Sorry, i don't know how to put multiple quotes in the post

[Grub]

The engine gets cold but not enough to get icey carbs.

Interesting phenominon Carb Icing and often mis-understood. It doesn't have to be "freezing" to get it ...

" ... Also carb ice is NOT a problem if the air is cold enough. It is
usually only a problem from a few degrees below freezing up to about
the mid 60's fahrenheit. Say from -5 to 15 Celsius.

There is a strong temperature drop in the carburetor throat. While there may be a drop of a degree or two in temperature due to the acceleration and resulting drop in pressure going through the venturi, what really causes the temperature to fall is the fuel coming in through the carburetor.

It requires a LOT of heat to vaporize all of that fuel. That heat primarily comes from the air passing through the carburetor. The heat of vaporization will typically drop the temperature of the incoming air by ten to fifteen degrees celsius. This temperature drop, caused when the gasoline evaporates, condenses out the water vapor in the incoming air.

If the temperature has been dropped below zero celsius, this condensation will immediately freeze. It will then SNOW inside your carburetor. Just like a snow drift will form behind a snow fence, this snow will build up on the back of the throttle plate. That is why carb ice is most likely when the throttle is NOT fully open. When it is open, the snow just goes on into the cylinder and cools the mixture a little, allowing you to charge the cylinders with a denser mixture ... "

[Ripperjon]

So i should start her up with the throttle open at first?

[RidingHard]

Realistically though, I would be very very firm with the guys you bought it off cause quite frankly the service you have had regarding the problem thus far sounds average to say the least...its a fucking brand new bike??? Its their problem ...not yours!

Hes right mate, you shouldnt have to deal with issues on a fresh bike! Take it back to the dealer you bought it from and stick your guns. Failing that, contact Kawasaki NZ. Good luck

[TimeOut]

Yeah theyll be happy right up to the point where you make a claim, dont fall for that bullshit

Na the last two TRX Hondas had warranty claims the last one the 500 major claims (two gearbox rebuilds, rings + others) the previous one two sets of rings.

Never once was it mentioned that I was doing my own servicing. Just keep records