Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 39 of 39

Thread: New Ninja not running too good

  1. #31
    Join Date
    4th April 2007 - 15:04
    Bike
    Kawasaki ZX6R
    Location
    Massey, Auckland
    Posts
    1,918
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripperjon View Post
    That'd be awesome if you don't mind.
    Hi Mate,

    Have you considered carb icing? I had a ZX9R that misbehaved terribly in the cold damp air and sounded like a v-twin as opposed to a 4 cyl bike. It may be forming ice on the carb butterflies and causing some issues. Probably not but thought I would throw in my 2c as well.

    Realistically though, I would be very very firm with the guys you bought it off cause quite frankly the service you have had regarding the problem thus far sounds average to say the least...its a fucking brand new bike??? Its their problem ...not yours!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    5th February 2008 - 13:07
    Bike
    2006 Hyosung GT650R
    Location
    BOP
    Posts
    7,141
    The proper way to use a choke, is to go full-choke first, crack the throttle, and start it, wait 2-3 seconds to the revs to build and stablise, and then slowly slowly back the choke off until you get maximum rpm, then back it off ever so slightly more until the revs JUST begin to drop, then leave it there to warm up. You CAN leave the choke at this setting and ride off slowly, but within 1km or less it should be fully off. Never leave it running at full choke - you will foul the engine.

    An extended warm up isn't really necessary, unless it makes you feel better doing it.

    Never power up hard under full choke.

    DB

  3. #33
    Join Date
    21st September 2006 - 21:35
    Bike
    Kawasaki ZX1100 Turbo
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    3,100
    Sounds like a vent is blocked to me, if you open the filler cap then close it again does it run ok again?

    (did not read the middle pages, just first and last lol)
    "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary - that's what gets you."
    Jeremy Clarkson.

    Kawasaki 200mph Club

  4. #34
    Join Date
    8th May 2007 - 19:30
    Bike
    Kawasaki
    Location
    Papakura
    Posts
    143
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeOut View Post
    Shouldn't affect warranty, apart from the first service I'm doing my own services and the dealer is happy.
    Yeah theyll be happy right up to the point where you make a claim, dont fall for that bullshit

  5. #35
    Join Date
    29th August 2007 - 23:51
    Bike
    2012, Triumph Daytona 675SE
    Location
    Lower than i would like
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by DangerousBastard View Post
    The proper way to use a choke, is to go full-choke first, crack the throttle, and start it, wait 2-3 seconds to the revs to build and stablise, and then slowly slowly back the choke off until you get maximum rpm, then back it off ever so slightly more until the revs JUST begin to drop, then leave it there to warm up. You CAN leave the choke at this setting and ride off slowly, but within 1km or less it should be fully off. Never leave it running at full choke - you will foul the engine.

    An extended warm up isn't really necessary, unless it makes you feel better doing it.
    DB
    Yeah, this is what i've been doing, the revs will build as it warms, i back off the choke keeping it under but near 2500rpm (as it recommends in the manual), but it takes nearly 10 minutes before i can take the choke fully off without it spluttering, and occasionally stalling entirely.

    I've tried riding with the choke partially on but i still get the delayed or even negated response from the throttle which is a bit gnarly pulling out onto the main road. So, for me, at the moment, the extended warmup is a bit of a necessity.

    I don't think carb icing is the problem as it happens after work too when the bike is out in the sun. The engine gets cold but not enough to get icey carbs.

    regarding what DiscoDan said about a blocked vent and opening the filler cap. How does that work?


    P.S. Sorry, i don't know how to put multiple quotes in the post


  6. #36
    Join Date
    5th December 2006 - 18:22
    Bike
    2000 Honda CBR600F4, RG50/GL145 Bucket
    Location
    Whitby, Wellington
    Posts
    2,009
    Quote Originally Posted by Ripperjon View Post
    The engine gets cold but not enough to get icey carbs.
    Interesting phenominon Carb Icing and often mis-understood. It doesn't have to be "freezing" to get it ...

    " ... Also carb ice is NOT a problem if the air is cold enough. It is
    usually only a problem from a few degrees below freezing up to about
    the mid 60's fahrenheit. Say from -5 to 15 Celsius.

    There is a strong temperature drop in the carburetor throat. While there may be a drop of a degree or two in temperature due to the acceleration and resulting drop in pressure going through the venturi, what really causes the temperature to fall is the fuel coming in through the carburetor.

    It requires a LOT of heat to vaporize all of that fuel. That heat primarily comes from the air passing through the carburetor. The heat of vaporization will typically drop the temperature of the incoming air by ten to fifteen degrees celsius. This temperature drop, caused when the gasoline evaporates, condenses out the water vapor in the incoming air.

    If the temperature has been dropped below zero celsius, this condensation will immediately freeze. It will then SNOW inside your carburetor. Just like a snow drift will form behind a snow fence, this snow will build up on the back of the throttle plate. That is why carb ice is most likely when the throttle is NOT fully open. When it is open, the snow just goes on into the cylinder and cools the mixture a little, allowing you to charge the cylinders with a denser mixture ... "

  7. #37
    Join Date
    29th August 2007 - 23:51
    Bike
    2012, Triumph Daytona 675SE
    Location
    Lower than i would like
    Posts
    170
    So i should start her up with the throttle open at first?


  8. #38
    Join Date
    6th April 2007 - 20:19
    Bike
    Ducati 900SS '93
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by Biggles08 View Post
    Realistically though, I would be very very firm with the guys you bought it off cause quite frankly the service you have had regarding the problem thus far sounds average to say the least...its a fucking brand new bike??? Its their problem ...not yours!
    Hes right mate, you shouldnt have to deal with issues on a fresh bike! Take it back to the dealer you bought it from and stick your guns. Failing that, contact Kawasaki NZ. Good luck

  9. #39
    Join Date
    3rd January 2008 - 07:31
    Bike
    2007 Suzuki DL 650
    Location
    North Otago
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by Sollyboy View Post
    Yeah theyll be happy right up to the point where you make a claim, dont fall for that bullshit
    Na the last two TRX Hondas had warranty claims the last one the 500 major claims (two gearbox rebuilds, rings + others) the previous one two sets of rings.

    Never once was it mentioned that I was doing my own servicing. Just keep records

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •