"Fix it" arvo/evening this Sat, 12 April

**Ragingrob** · 10th April 2008, 23:02

Clear coat just for protection... Hmmm well all the black I've sprayed like my bike is at the mo has a clear coat cover...? So I dunno? The paint is just "black" anyway lol no specifically "matte".

**shingo** · 10th April 2008, 23:06

I assumed it would give it a bit of a gloss finish, guess not. It's good to have a protective coating, should make the paint last longer.

**Ragingrob** · 10th April 2008, 23:09

Hmmm yeah I dunno, there is more shine then before I coated it, but not much. It still seems pretty matte and doesn't reflect at all. Oh well! Anyway, should look a lot nicer with a colour coded bumper haha!

**klyong82** · 10th April 2008, 23:37

Originally Posted by shingo

Bikes only done 14,000km. I was more interested in doing the valve clearances as a piece of mind sort of thing, not because it was due. I don't know how it was treated in japan and i'm not exactly easy on it myself at times, especially on the open road.

The forks are non-adjustable which is a bit of a pain. I was thinking about using the factory weight oil to see if it made it any better, if i still found it a bit soft i would try some heavier oil.

Well just the original specification weight oil then. Other alternative is to change the springs/cartridges (ohlins) to heavier ones. CBR250 had 10W so should be the same for your bike too I think.

Originally Posted by HungusMaximist

Cheers, but last time I did it I managed to rupture one of the hoses under the tank and spilled fuel everywhere.

I have to admit, I am still pretty clueless when it comes to the tank.

I'll try the plank again at Stephens place under some watchful eyes.

Well I am sure you got plenty of people to help you out at Stevo's so dont worry....I just installed the K&N filter on my bike. Slightly smoother now. But felt like bike was warming up faster than usual.

Originally Posted by Ragingrob

Yeah not too keen on taking the front fairing off lol seems a lot of work with the wiring and indicators etc etc! I guess we'll see on Saturday if I cruise in from Karaka?

Yeah dont worry about front fairings all the wires can be seen when you take the air ducts off.

**motorbyclist** · 11th April 2008, 00:46

valves require a stone cold engine... maybe leave the bike at stephen's in the morning and take a GN to work?
stephen or myself will be able to tell you by ear if it needs looking at. should take 3 hours tops but that's what i said last time too......forks again should be 30 minutes tops.

and you don't clearcoat matt paint if you want it to stay matt!

**HungusMaximist** · 11th April 2008, 06:50

Originally Posted by klyong82

Well I am sure you got plenty of people to help you out at Stevo's so dont worry....I just installed the K&N filter on my bike. Slightly smoother now. But felt like bike was warming up faster than usual.

Nice, bringing home some upgrades aye!

You bought it through Ebay again or through a shop in NZ?

**klyong82** · 11th April 2008, 07:19

Originally Posted by HungusMaximist

Nice, bringing home some upgrades aye!

You bought it through Ebay again or through a shop in NZ?

But overall dont feel any difference in the bike. Yeah bought it on fleebay. Petrol is expensive cannot afford to drive so time to take the bike to work...put some mods to it...

**ital916** · 11th April 2008, 07:45

Originally Posted by motorbyclist

valves require a stone cold engine... maybe leave the bike at stephen's in the morning and take a GN to work?
stephen or myself will be able to tell you by ear if it needs looking at. should take 3 hours tops but that's what i said last time too......forks again should be 30 minutes tops.

and you don't clearcoat matt paint if you want it to stay matt!

Matte is nice but I find a satin finish is nicer, looks smoother and picks up marks a lot less, matte shows up everything lol

**Ragingrob** · 11th April 2008, 08:13

Originally Posted by motorbyclist

valves require a stone cold engine... maybe leave the bike at stephen's in the morning and take a GN to work?
stephen or myself will be able to tell you by ear if it needs looking at. should take 3 hours tops but that's what i said last time too......forks again should be 30 minutes tops.

and you don't clearcoat matt paint if you want it to stay matt!

Well is my bike matt at the moment? Because it's clear coated... I'll just do it the same as I did before, it's not even "matt" black spraypaint anyway so meh.

**shingo** · 11th April 2008, 10:18

Originally Posted by klyong82

Well just the original specification weight oil then. Other alternative is to change the springs/cartridges (ohlins) to heavier ones. CBR250 had 10W so should be the same for your bike too I think.

I've heard of a couple people changing springs and putting emulators in to improve the suspension, but that gets a bit pricey for me. This bike is only a stepping stone so i don't really want to spend too much on it.

Originally Posted by motorbyclist

valves require a stone cold engine... maybe leave the bike at stephen's in the morning and take a GN to work?
stephen or myself will be able to tell you by ear if it needs looking at. should take 3 hours tops but that's what i said last time too......forks again should be 30 minutes tops.

If you guys can tell by ear if they need adjusting then you can have a listen to it when i'm there, and if you reckon it needs doing we can organise a time later to do it.

**EJK** · 11th April 2008, 11:50

Originally Posted by Macstar

Can you do crash repairs?

Can I take a look at your arm Issac???
I've always wanted to be a butcher, NO! I mean docor when I grow up!!

**Magua** · 11th April 2008, 13:56

Got space for me to change my fork oil? Requires removing the front wheel, damn honda.

Does anyone have 30mm socket + torque wrenches I could use?

**motorbyclist** · 11th April 2008, 14:25

most forks require you to remove the front wheel to do the job properly, not just the honda

if you're really lazy you could just pull the lids off them and put your bike upside down to drain all (or atleast half) the oil

**Timati** · 11th April 2008, 14:47

Rings are a bigger job, i dont have a bore gauge to measure up what your cylinder is like...yet , A search of the net may reveal a good place to get pistons, rings, etc

Managed to find info on the bore @ http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Brs250-mi.htm. Not sure if it helps.

Pads? Cycletreads have em for about $45 a set, are you doing front and back or just the rear? They do a 3 for 2 on one of the brands (might be feredo), so if you're doing the fronts then you could get a free rear

Otherwise just do the rears

Got the pads sorted. Got the sparks sorted. Wohoo!. They were a b*@!# to find since no one seems to have them in stock.