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Thread: Fibreglass and carbon work.

  1. #31
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    6th May 2008 - 22:39
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    Big ups dude, that tank looks freak'n awesome. I'd love to make a carbon fibre lower fairing and wheel guards for my VTR250 some time but too much else to do first. Keep up the good work.

  2. #32
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    2nd February 2008 - 14:18
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    Thumbs up Good question...

    Quote Originally Posted by Swoop View Post
    Would "peel ply" do the same thing?
    I dont know.The tissue is so light and will conform to intricate shapes and corners without conceding much weight as the resin in the carbon should be enough to wet the tissue. I would think the peelply would not sit as well in the tight places. Easy answer is do a small test laminate and compare the two...cheers
    It's better to have ridden and crashed,than never to have ridden at all....R.I.P. Bruce Bennett (old fart-KB.) 1955-2005 posted by Bronwyn Bennett.

  3. #33
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    1st November 2005 - 08:18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fLaThEaD FreD View Post
    I dont know.The tissue is so light and will conform to intricate shapes and corners without conceding much weight as the resin in the carbon should be enough to wet the tissue. I would think the peelply would not sit as well in the tight places.
    I have never personally used peel ply on a job, but there is a 9m carbon fibre sport boat being built nearby, which I have been taking an interest in.
    Peel ply (thin cloth) is layed over the surface during the construction to keep the resin uniform, and provides protection during the reat of the build.
    On the yacht, it is just about to be peeled off and the clearcoat applied, before the hull and deck is joined.
    It has been a bloody interesting process and a good learning curve for me.
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

  4. #34
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Heheheh, I suspect Paul is well familiar with what peel ply is

    He's right though, it won't be the best... the tissue will wet out and go into any shape you like, the peel ply however is tightly woven (a bit like silk I guess), and won't conform around detail, as it just wants to clump into pleats.

  5. #35
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    15th December 2007 - 06:24
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    he all,more pics of this project uploaded to my albums,have a look if interested.cheers

  6. #36
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    5th February 2008 - 13:07
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    Its bloody interesting watching your work.. When you are making a plug from scratch, how do you get both sides symmetrical ?

    DB
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  7. #37
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    measurements,feel and time mostly mate.Hard to get perfect results when things are hand made so it never will be but i get it as close as i can.thanks

  8. #38
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    19th October 2007 - 20:22
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    I love this thread and have a few questions myself.. basically- I made a fibreglass pod for my subwoofer as shown here: http://www.knockturnal.org/forums/sh...?t=6363&page=3

    The problem is that after two weeks certain areas have become lumpy and its no longer glassy smooth like it was origionally. Is this due to me doing the fibreglassing/sanding/painting over three days? I do slightly recall seeing something on the resin tin saying "leave for a week before painting" or something.

    How long does resin and bog continue to shrink and move for after application?

    Thanks dude- your work is beautiful!

  9. #39
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    1st November 2005 - 08:18
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    Resin will be dry to the touch after 6-8 hours(ish).
    Full hardness and strength will take about 5-7 days and curing will vary on temperature.
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

  10. #40
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    I finally have my oven in the roof! My VER stuff should be well cured in a few days without too much bother.

  11. #41
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    10th August 2008 - 18:24
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    Very nice work there

  12. #42
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    2nd February 2008 - 14:18
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    Thumbs up The longer the better

    Quote Originally Posted by Swoop View Post
    Resin will be dry to the touch after 6-8 hours(ish).
    Full hardness and strength will take about 5-7 days and curing will vary on temperature.
    In Breif
    Full cure aprox 28days in ideal conditions.I...demoulding 24-36 hours or longer the better.
    Peter Cave
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    It's better to have ridden and crashed,than never to have ridden at all....R.I.P. Bruce Bennett (old fart-KB.) 1955-2005 posted by Bronwyn Bennett.

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